If you guys bothered to search, you'd note that among the many threads on the topic is at least one where I hashed out these issues with a Smith's rep, makers of CPES. They post here themselves, occasionally.
For the record
, satisfactory answers were not to be had. For instance, unlike stated above, if you read the directions on the can it says to allow a minimum of 72 hours for off gassing of solvents, and this is at extremely high temps. In more average conditions, eight days is required to thoroughly off gas solvents before re coating with anything. This means acquiring a chemical bond with CPES is impossible, if you follow the instructions on the can.
that sanding removes oil
is ludicrous-it exposes fresh wood, which is inevitably more oily than wood which has been exposed to the elements. Thorough solvent wiping is a must.
As part of a pro bright work outfit back in the day, one which varnished many megayachts, we tested all epoxy products on the market, including all mentioned in this thread and many more. Honey Teak, Bristol, Rivole, Smith's, etc etc, using many different methods over a period of many years. We found that NO epoxy sealer really works. There are two reasons; epoxy is not UV stable, and epoxy is a very hard and inflexible product; wood is not. This means epoxy sealers will inevitably fail at joints sooner than traditional varnish, which is more flexible. The only way to prevent/reduce this is to remove all timbers from the vessel, strip bare, and seal the BACK of each and every piece before putting it all back together. This dimensionally stabilizes the timber, reducing joint movement to a level that epoxy MAY be able to take for some time, if not in the tropics. However, it is exhaustive and expensive.
Second, even with a three step system and the mist high end UV resistant products on the market, including use of the UV resistant hardener, epoxy is just too susceptible to UV damage for any clear finish. I use the methods discussed here often, but only as sealer (not primer) for paint. Primer and paint provide full UV protection, resulting in a robust long lasting system, when done right. But when exposed to even a little UV through a clear coat, the result is what we call "bridging". This is where the epoxy begins to fail in the deep grain only, where the sealer is thickest. The visual effect is initially very slight, and often only noticed by professional eyes. But it will continue to grow until it results in failure.
When failure occurs, I certainly have not been able to heat strip any epoxy sealer that was really flood coated until the substrate would accept no more. I've seen CPES poured on soak right through 1/2" marine
grade and drip out the bottom in less than ten minutes, so I'm not sure how that would be possible. I've always had to resort to extreme measure to remove the stuff, and do it over right.
For those looking for the real deal in long lasting bright finishes, look at Awlwood, or Awlbright over Awlspar, known as "the ultimate bright work system". It's a reversal of the concept
discussed here, ie the soft flexible finish goes down first (traditional varnish), and is over coated with clear linear polyurethane, which provides maximum depth
of image and gloss retention, as well as the greatest possible UV protection. Doing it right is $$$ though. Incidental bonus to this system: your bright work has the amber color and depth/appearance of traditional varnish, but it is now a high end LPU. This means you can do stuff like wet sanding and polishing it. If you load it up good, and then wet sand to 1500-2000 grit and polish, there will be absolutely zero peel or brush mark, resulting in a perfect mirror finish. Everyone who sees it will think you are the greatest bright worker of all time, unless they know your tricks! This also means you can do repairs
on your bright work, just like you would on paint..