Choosing nonskid paint on top of epoxy primer

[captstu]

I used Latex house paint - for $8/quart, it was cheap enough. I put some sand in a salt shaker, applied the paint shook on some sand, let it dry, swept off the excess sand and rolled on another quite.

It looked quiet good for a year or so - then I rolled on another $12 worth of paint.

[Steve Bean]

I'm using Durabak. Their literature claims it's been used on several U.S. Navy aircraft carriers.

[CapnBazza]

I have used International Interdeck and it is a very user friendly non-slip paint. (Doesn't wear out your feet, knees, elbows etc.)

[Norado]

I got a bit of leftover Interdeck from a guy at the yard and did a small area to test, I found it to have too little texture to break up the "dull" look of a painted deck. I guess I could mix in sand..

[tomrealest]

From Jamestown Distributors in Rhode Island try their in house brand Total Boat non skid deck paint. I'm happy after 2 years.

[knockabout]

we have been mixing berger jet dry true grit clear grit to 2 pack epoxy flat white (uv stable) paint / need to keep stirring if painting large areas / easy on bare feet / saves cutting in along the uppers

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by pelicanme

I am also interested in this question. The problem is not finding a nonskid, but finding one that will adhere well to an epoxy primed deck, and then last.

I used Tredgrip straight over well sanded (keyed) epoxy about 10 years back.

I was very impressed with it; so much so, I have reused it again this year.

Non skid was excellent, wear was excellent and recoating 10 years later was easy.
While colour range was not great, you can ask for 1/4 and 1/2 tints.

Tredgrip | AI Coatings

[HoneyRyder]

Here's a suggestion that has worked extremely well for me.

First, I paint the deck with a two part epoxy paint, I recommend SigmaCover400 (I buy from Promain Paints in the UK) and while it is freshly wet sprinkle some of their sand onto the painted surface (I get an old coffee can with a removable top, punch some holes in the bottom, fill it up with sand, put the cover on top, and then use it like a large salt shaker).

It will take a day or so to dry and cure.

After that I just use a standard outdoor floor paint to paint over the sand and epoxy.

The result has been excellent and hard wearing.

I've used sand mixed into a topcoat before but the sand always wears away. Setting it into the epoxy is very hard wearing and long lasting.

The epoxy paint from Promain is cheaper than Dulux and a million times better.

And you have the benefit of knowing that the epoxy is extremely water resistant too.

[Norado]

Interesting, Honey

Is the floor Paint acrylic based? Only problem I see with your technique is the masking, I'd like to remove the tape before the epoxy cures, were you able to get straight edges?

I will go to the hardware store tomorrow and pick up some acrylic roof paint. I'll mix this with cabosil aka fumed silica to youghurt consistency and make a test panel. Call it home made kiwigrip. I've looked at their data sheet, I'm no Walter White, but it seems like they use similar additives:

[HoneyRyder]

If you want to mask the edges then first step would be to epoxy paint the borders on Day 1 and let them dry/cure.

Then mask over the dry epoxy borders to get your straight lines.

Then paint the epoxy on the areas you want to sprinkle the sand on, sprinkle on the sand, and leave it a few hours for the new epoxy to "go off" and become tacky (it will depend on the temperature on the day) before pulling off the masking tape (before the epoxy gets too hard).

Let that dry/cure.

Then get a regular outdoor floor paint (I used some with polyurethane alkyd resins as my experience with mono and polyurethane paint on my boat is excellent) and paint the whole thing.

The difference is that the epoxy will grab the sand or silica better and far longer than a standard paint will, because the epoxy is like glue. And so your deck will keep its grip for ages.