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Old 18-02-2010, 11:41   #1
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Chainplate Rebedding

good day everyone. this spring im thinking its time to rebed my chainplates as this winter i noticed a little moisture coming through one of them. i am planning on doing one at a time but would like to hear peoples comments as too what product they are using to rebed. thanks everyone
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Old 18-02-2010, 12:05   #2
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I used Sikaflex (291) with good results.

On my Sigma 33 OOD I was able to just lift a cover from the deck, clean them and rebed it. No need to loosen or remove stays or shrouds; there is enough room to lift them for cleaning. Most important trick after thorough cleaning is to not tighten the covers to the deck but leave a nice thick layer of sikaflex (use matches as gauge). After setting you can tighten the covers a little.
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Old 18-02-2010, 16:15   #3
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Butyl tape: lasts forever, easy to install and cleanup- and cheap. Available in white, black, and gray.
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Old 18-02-2010, 16:32   #4
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If this is an older boat I would be really tempted to pull the chainplates for inspection before rebedding. Stainless steel is subject to crevasse corrosion and it would be prudent to see what the hidden area of the chain plates looks like, especially if you have seen water dripping through into the cabin.
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Old 18-02-2010, 17:09   #5
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The polyurethanes (3M 5200, Sika 291, etc.) are excellent adhesives but suffer from UV exposure and can be difficult/impossible to remove. The polysulfides (Lifecaulk, 3M 301) are more flexible, UV resistant and can be removed if necesary. Butyl tape is very flexible, dirt cheap, easy to use and lasts for decades. In your application, where the parts are held mechanically and no additional adhesive is necesary, I would use butyl tape or a polysulfide. Another member, "Maine Sail", has an excellent post on the subject which goes into greater detail. Worth the search if you can find it.

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Old 19-02-2010, 05:16   #6
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Island Packet Yachts recommends using GE SilPruf for the chainplates. I re-bedded mine by cutting and picking out the old caulk from the cavities where the shrouds exit the deck, cleaning the area with alcohol, letting it dry out, then re-filling the cavities with the Silpruf. Still good after four years, including a few rough offshore passages.
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Old 19-02-2010, 05:23   #7
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I just bought a book by Don Casey from Amazon for 10 buck called Sailboat hull and deck repair. I talks about this very product. I would recommend picking it up. Talks about inspection, and the products to use to reseat and seal.
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Old 19-02-2010, 07:29   #8
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thanks for all the replies this GE silpruf could it also be used to rebed windows?
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Old 20-02-2010, 07:03   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelmrc View Post
thanks for all the replies this GE silpruf could it also be used to rebed windows?
Probably.

Structural glazing applications require that GE Silicones give written approval of the use of GE SilPruf® SCS2000 Silicone Sealant for each building project. Drawing review and substrate testing must be completed prior to sealant use on a project. Review and testing is done on a job -to-job basis. No blanket approval is given by GE Silicones for structural glazing applications. Use only approved back-up materials, spacers and setting blocks to ensure sealant compatibility and function. GE SilPruf SCS2000 Silicone Sealant is not recommended for use where abrasion or physical abuse is encountered in horizontal joints on- or below-grade.

The sealant is not recommended for use in locations subject to continuous water immersion.

SilPruf may be considered a candidate for use with numerous construction-related materials, including: glass, polycarbonate, vinyl, numerous plastics, treated and untreated wood, fluoropolymer and powder coated paints, conversion-coated and anodized aluminum, brick, terra-cotta, ceramic and porcelain materials, concrete and natural stones.
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Old 20-02-2010, 08:03   #10
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Sounds very similar to Dow 795

http://www.meiglobalsolutions.com/im...corning795.pdf
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Old 20-02-2010, 10:23   #11
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I re-glazed my port lights just last week with Dow 795 (black) at the suggestion of my refitting guru despite the fact that the frames do not provide the minimum joint size of 1/4" as specified by DowCorning. The results look great and they don't leak (so far) but what a pain in the a$$ it is to mask the glass and frames.
I will use butyl tape to re-bed the port light frames back in the hull.
The advantage, I think, of butyl tape for chain plate bedding is that it can be easily removed if necessary or one could simply pack more in if needed. Clean up's a snap too. The stuff deserves a place in everybody's tool kit.
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