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Old 07-03-2010, 17:43   #16
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I couldn't find the yahoo group you were referring to...I am on the force50.org board though...Lots of good info on there for sure...
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Old 07-03-2010, 17:46   #17
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Originally Posted by yacht_planb View Post

Anyway the price for new chainplates like these to be made up are $1200. each. I will post some pic's later..
For $1200 I will personally whittle them from 316 for you with a butter knife. Find a shop with a water jet machine...and post some pics of these things...
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Old 07-03-2010, 18:27   #18
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Here's a set of "before and after pictures" of my chainplates....





This pictured plate is one of twelve that I removed, refinished, polished & inspected on my 38 year old vessel. No cracks, no voids, no discernable problems,- there's a great variety in quality of materials. I undertook this task because I was getting some light hull streaks from the mild surface rust, but no structural problems. Don't discount the possibility that old quality chainplates might still perform well. 'take care and joy, Aythya crew
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:23   #19
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$1200 EACH, or for the whole set!!??
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:48   #20
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OMG!!--ypou just took all the wind outta my lungs, much less my a=sails--i be seeking used ones sans crack..LOL.......yes the block of wood is important--mine are also missing...gotta make more--need hard wood....
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:54   #21
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Quote:
Anyway the price for new chainplates like these to be made up are $1200.
Order Stainless 316 Rectangle in Small Quantities at OnlineMetals.com
2" 316 SS 48" $60.96 (ship not incl.) Bending and annealing is a different story.
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:26   #22
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Pic's...

Here are some pic's... THat pricing was for a water jet and polishing in Miami.

The ruler is 24" long and the top of the plate is 8" wide...

Attached are some pic's..
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Old 08-03-2010, 13:03   #23
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I don't like the double bends at all and it certainly needs a block behind that so that the fork part will never bend. Even then, it will always work a little and be the weak spot of the system. I would route a slit into the toe-rail to allow the plate to pass through so that you need no bend or just one to match the angle of the shroud.

cheers,
Nick.
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