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Old 26-01-2008, 04:53   #1
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Caulk question

There is a dizzying number of caulks out there. I need to replace a couple hatchs. After removing one that was possibly bed with 5200 I don't want to use that again for this purpose, just in case. What would you recommend to seal a deak hatch?
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Old 26-01-2008, 07:39   #2
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I was surprised that you got the hatch off if it was 5200. For a hatch that is exposed the UV rays, a sealant with UV ray protection might be your best choice. At least that will limit the choice of sealants a bit. I have always had good luck with Silkaflex products.
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Old 26-01-2008, 08:04   #3
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Sikaflex is the way to go - BTW they make a construction adhesive/sealant which is virtually the same as the marine product at much less cost
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Old 26-01-2008, 08:19   #4
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As an aside here, it would be interesting to put together a list of equivalent products that have a rip off price for boaters and a reasonable price for land dwellers.
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Old 26-01-2008, 08:21   #5
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We use polysulfide in combination with a butyl tape. If you lay a 1/8" strip of butyl tape in the center of the rim and then lay a bead of poly on each side of it you will not squeeze out the poly when you set the hatch. The buytl will not cure and will always keep the seal.
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Old 26-01-2008, 08:23   #6
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I've been using the polyurathene construction products from Home Depot for bedding chainplates and winches. I'm 2 years into the experiment, but so far... no complaints.
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Old 26-01-2008, 09:15   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joli View Post
We use polysulfide in combination with a butyl tape. If you lay a 1/8" strip of butyl tape in the center of the rim and then lay a bead of poly on each side of it you will not squeeze out the poly when you set the hatch. The buytl will not cure and will always keep the seal.
This is interesting, but I don't follow precisely where you put the tape, and I don't think you are building up a sandwich of layers. Thanks!
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Old 04-02-2008, 17:05   #8
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Joli,

Wher are you getting your butyl tape, I like your approach.

Steve
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Old 11-02-2008, 15:31   #9
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We use 3M 4200 it works good and holds up well. just caulk it, snug it down let it set for a couple hrs then tighten down.
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Old 11-02-2008, 15:45   #10
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Here's the bottom line:

If you want something that will never fail, use 3M 5200. If you want something less, expect the corresponding results, over time.
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Old 11-02-2008, 15:45   #11
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There is a product here called Tek 7 (or Tec 7) that you can apply even underwater to seal cracks in an emergency. I've used it to seal windows not a hatch and it has incredible strength but flexibility. . .
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Old 11-02-2008, 16:26   #12
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Kanani, you really should not use 5200 above the waterline the sun will break it down. And at some point the hatches may need to come out again. I've been in the business 38 years and have seen many cases where people have used it on deck and in a couple years it breaks down and gets chaulkey.
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Old 11-02-2008, 16:37   #13
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Kanani, you really should not use 5200 above the waterline the sun will break it down. And at some point the hatches may need to come out again. I've been in the business 38 years and have seen many cases where people have used it on deck and in a couple years it breaks down and gets chaulkey.
ABSOLUTELY false........3M 5200 has the best UV resistance in the industry.

I made a very thick (about 1 1/2" thick) "Mold" of 5200 to hold a deck plate in place. My intension was to drill and screw it in place after it cured. I never did that. That was in 1990 and it is still in place with no cracks.

The plate was an access hole for the emergency tiller. I installed a working tiller (for my windvane). The plate was not level and I installed a 5" long solid brass bearing in that plate. I slipped the bearing, plate & all, down the rudder shaft to the deck. I ended up needing to build up the area and a shipwright friend of mine suggested 5200. It worked perfectly after curing for 30 days. I sailed 80,000 miles with the windvane stressing that bearing (held in place with 5200) every inch of the way.

I agree that if you expect to remove the hatches again, it will be difficult. However, I would expect to not have to remove a hatch in 10 - 15 years. In that time, it won't leak with 5200, I don't think that you can expect that service out of most sealers.

I bedded my chainplates, winches, cleats, stansions and every other piece of deck harware that through bolted through the deck with 5200. Never had a leak.
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Old 11-02-2008, 17:24   #14
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Kanani, I agree with you about the UV resistance and your point about using it on hatches, in 15 years I will worry about it, or more than likely someone else will have to deal with it. Since you are a self-proclaimed 5200 man . Have you ever had 5200 gas and bubble. I have, and that is one thing that annoys me about the product ?

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Old 11-02-2008, 18:58   #15
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if you ever even have the slightest thought the the part might need to come off at some point in the future, use Life Caulk. Otherwise 5200 works great
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