Canoe Sterned Bimini- thoughts and ideas please!

[Bluemansailor]

I'm getting ready to design and then build a canvas bimini for my canoe sterned boat. What have other canoe stern boat owners done (photos would be greatly appreciated). Do you build a rectangular bimini that over hangs the boat or taper the back half to follow the lines of your boat.

Here's a photo of my boat - I'm lucky in that I will not have to worry about my boom, it will sit above and before the fore edge of the bimini.

thoughts and ideas anyone --- Thanks for the input!

Ps - also building a new dodger as the one that came with the boat is sooo out of proportion to the boat.

[Mycroft]

My bimini, when installed, attaches to the dodger with a zipper. There's a 3-piece arch over the helm seat that attaches to two connectors on either side with two straps that go around the stern pulpit rail to keep it held back. Then the bimini canvas wraps around and zips as normal around the arch pole.

In the center of the rectangular bimini is a ring that I lift up toward the back stay with a bungee so rain doesn't collect.

[Free Spirit HC33]

My HC33 came with a dodger and bimini, which I have yet to redo (but getting close). The bimini is a 3-frame, with the aft bow much smaller than the forward and mid bows. You can sort of get the idea from these pictures, originally taken to show another HC owner how I had done my "enclosure" panels without boat mounted fasteners.

I also work at a sail and canvas loft, sewing boat canvas. We've made several biminis for double-enders, and usually will have the frame more closely match the curve of the boat (hence smaller aft). Not always easy to do, and pretty much means the frame won't like folding up on itself for storage. Sorry, don't have pictures of them (on boss's computer).

[Bluemansailor]

Originally Posted by Free Spirit HC33

My HC33 came with a dodger and bimini, which I have yet to redo (but getting close). The bimini is a 3-frame, with the aft bow much smaller than the forward and mid bows. You can sort of get the idea from these pictures, originally taken to show another HC owner how I had done my "enclosure" panels without boat mounted fasteners.

I also work at a sail and canvas loft, sewing boat canvas. We've made several biminis for double-enders, and usually will have the frame more closely match the curve of the boat (hence smaller aft). Not always easy to do, and pretty much means the frame won't like folding up on itself for storage. Sorry, don't have pictures of them (on boss's computer).

thanks - that's exactly the info I was looking for. Going to make a mock up this weekend. One final question, since I'm having a pipe bending company make me the frames, any idea what the typical radius is on the bends?
thanks

[wingless]

It would look best to have the bimini arch match the existing railing.

If the existing railing has identical bottom arch and top arch, then also make the bimini identical.

If the existing railing is smaller on the bottom and larger on the top, then either make the bimini larger still, or have the bimini match the top railing.

[Free Spirit HC33]

Originally Posted by Bluemansailor

thanks - that's exactly the info I was looking for. Going to make a mock up this weekend. One final question, since I'm having a pipe bending company make me the frames, any idea what the typical radius is on the bends?
thanks

At our shop, the bender does a 12" radius. My old shop up north might have had a 10", not sure anymore.

[xeon_tsd]

I did not design the bimini, it was already there when I bought her. Here are pics for you to mull over. It is not rounded but only as wide as the cockpit not full beam width. What she does NOT have is a dodger/spray hood!

[Bluemansailor]

thanks everyone-

[barnakiel]

If you build yours so that it holds on to the wider beam end, you will end up with extra shade where you need it most - for the driver.

Mind you want the sheets on cabin top or else build your kit well clear of the traveller. You can build the front so that it is easy to push back an ich to let the car pass, then push forward to close the gap with the dodger.

On our boat that sports twin backstays, I simply run a longer pvc tube across them, then fly our tent-cum-bimini over it with attachment points tied onto the gallows. Easy, low cost, etc..

Cheers,
b.

[Suijin]

I don't necessarily agree that tapering the aft half of the bimini looks better. I've seen it on a few boats and I think it looks a bit odd. It all depends on the boat and the design of the installation I suppose. I have a canoe stern Valiant and all of my bows are the same width. Looks fine to me.

A significant benefit to making all three bows the same width is stowage. The bimini collapses to a fairly compact size and it's easier to make a cover for it.

If I were you I would attach your bimini to your pushpit. No new fixtures on the deck, less clutter, etc. It's a matter of geometry; if can have a larger bimini if the frame goes down to the deck, but it will be more unwieldy and less attractive.

A few things I would keep in mind as you design it:

If you're ever going to add posts to your stern for a wind generator, radar, antenna cluster, etc., make sure that you design the bimini so that you have vertical clearance for these.

If you are going to redesign the dodger, and are going to have a connector made between it and the bimini, make sure the front edge of the bimini is at such a height that it provides for adequate slope to clear the boom end.

Consider carefully where you're going to run the support straps so that they clear rigging and hardware and provide adequate access to your side decks.

Don't let the installer use brass clips for the hardware. For the support straps, design a "soft shackle" arrangement so you don't have any clatter when the bimini is buffeted by wind.

If you have a window put in, make it big enough so that it's actually useful. I have been on tons of boats with tiny windows that don't let you see a damn thing. It's also nice to have the cover for the window permanently attached with ties to hold it rolled back so you don't lose it.

After the installer has left, go back and check all the hardware and mountings for tightness. A not quite tight enough allen screw in one of the fittings can lead to damage to the fitting or the frame.

Go local and make sure your vendor is willing to return promptly to make adjustments after the installation, because they will probably be some required.

[Bluemansailor]

Thanks Suijin,
the installer will be me, having a local pipe bending company do the frame work for me after I mock it up this weekend, I did all my own canvas work on my last boat so I'll be sewing up the new Bimini - dodger frame has already been re cut, and lowered - more in proportion to the shape of the boat.

[s/v Beth]

One last thought. I made a radar arch/dingy lifts and Bimini platform all out of custom tubing. I had to make it high enough that I am not sure I like it 100%, but it sure is functional.