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Old 22-02-2010, 23:32   #1
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Cabin Sole Replacement

Hi folks, does anyone have experience w/ laminates to replace veneer from marine plywood? Presently working on replacing teak and holly cabin sole which is essentially teak and holly veneer over marine plywood. I also need to replace some portions of the veneer from cabinets; probably mohogany veneer.
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Old 23-02-2010, 05:04   #2
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Teak and Holly, not cheap. We had a local woodworker make a custom laminate for us using 1/4 teak epoxied (vacuum bagged) to marine plywood. You can sand a whole lot more before it's done.
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Old 23-02-2010, 06:11   #3
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I have seen this product Lonseal Flooring | Lonwood Teak & Holly a buddy had a sample swatch. I was impressed with the looks and it would not be as slippery as a hard Formica type of laminate. I am using some of the other laminates from Lonseal in my boat. Jack
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Old 23-02-2010, 06:44   #4
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200 - 250 a sheet .. bet it looks good. no experience with doing it.
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Old 23-02-2010, 20:15   #5
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how did the 1/4 " work out?

I was looking at a synthetic product online called nuteak, anyone heard of it or used it? http://www.nuteak.com/index.htm
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Old 24-02-2010, 00:13   #6
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We are planning to replace the cabin sole too and I've been thinking and researching for some months now. My current plan is to take 1/2" Bruynzeel marine plywood, and laminate it with 1/4" teak and holly using epoxy. Also, coat the underside with epoxy twice. After cutting the panels, epoxy 1/8" or 3/16" thick teak strips around the panels.

This will be somewhat expensive but doing the work yourself saves a lot.

cheers,
Nick.
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Old 24-02-2010, 22:30   #7
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Nick good luck finding it. I recently wanted to buy some of that stuff for our endeavour rebuild. Expensive and very hard to come by. Jamestown distributors has it, but then getting it would be a royal pain in the arse.
Was going to be like 3 month wait or something like that.

I used to like the teak/holley look, but have teak parqet floors on our endeavour and with interlux perfection must say they look very nice. There is some meat to them so sanding them is ok, unlike the fake venieer kind. But gluing all those pieces down must of been kind of time consuming.....

You can get the parket teak from the place in Thailand. Shipping is very high though and it takes months to get it. Better yet would be to sail over there and get it down there...... but that will have to wait for a different decade for us!

Bob
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Old 24-02-2010, 22:54   #8
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Bob, what is hard to get, the plywood or the teak? Both are easy to get in the Caribbean.

cheers,
Nick.
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Old 24-02-2010, 23:06   #9
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Nick,
One thought I'm sure your considering. Laminates get kinda weird when you mess with the number of layers, thickness and final treatment. As I understand it you want an odd number of laminates same thickness and moisture level.. You need to be careful about the sealers being applied to both sides etc.... You would probably want the different materials to be stabilized in the same environment for x period of time. There are surface tensions and variable materials. Sometimes you can get away with it sometimes the panels warp. Just words of caution keep up the good research. That wasn't helpful was it?
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Old 24-02-2010, 23:20   #10
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Hi Sabray,

That why I want Bruynzeel marine plywood as the base (plus I'm Dutch so tend to favor good Dutch products ;-)

Bruynzeel is probably the best plywood in the world and it's sold all over the world. I've never seen problems with warping with this quality plywood. I must say that I also saw very few problems with teak.

thanks,
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Old 24-02-2010, 23:32   #11
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Agree Brunzeel is top of the line. If you are gluing on top of it though you need to be mindful that there are surface tensions and variance in moisture content could come back to haunt you.I know you do your homework so this is more for some one whos reading along. The cut of the wood you lay on top (vertical grain) the way it was cut/dryed etal are important.
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Old 25-02-2010, 08:52   #12
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Yes, I would use the guidelines in the Gaucheon Brothers book for moisture content and acclimatisation etc. But still, I've seen projects where they put 1/4" teak in an adhesive on cockpit soles or swimming platforms like they quickly put a puzzle together, without anything holding it and without any thoughts on moisture content etc. I always go back to look after cure and it's just fine. Then, some weeks or months later, some teak worked up, ruining the job but it's never much, maybe 1/2" to 3/4" or so. When you push it down, it takes very little force to do so. This is what surprises me because I thought there would be more tension. When it would have been epoxied onto 1/2" Bruynzeel I don't think it would be enough tension to warp it even a little. And that is with just slamming it on without thinking.

What I see is also the reason I will do the job myself, even if I have to buy a table saw and chop saw and discard them after the project. I'm sure there are shipswrights who do a good job but just finding them takes a lot of time and the extra costs will be significant.

cheers,
Nick.
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Old 25-02-2010, 09:10   #13
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To make your own panels Nick you should have access to a vaccuum bag table. The product will be much flatter and have no voids. Good luck.



Our boat has solid teak grating that we very much like for looks and durability but it is more work to keep the bilge clean then. Everything goes right through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by s/v Jedi View Post
We are planning to replace the cabin sole too and I've been thinking and researching for some months now. My current plan is to take 1/2" Bruynzeel marine plywood, and laminate it with 1/4" teak and holly using epoxy. Also, coat the underside with epoxy twice. After cutting the panels, epoxy 1/8" or 3/16" thick teak strips around the panels.

This will be somewhat expensive but doing the work yourself saves a lot.

cheers,
Nick.
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Old 25-02-2010, 09:43   #14
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Nuteak

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Originally Posted by oceansong1 View Post
how did the 1/4 " work out?

I was looking at a synthetic product online called nuteak, anyone heard of it or used it? http://www.nuteak.com/index.htm
I have been researching this and I think I'm going to give it try. I looked all over and it seams like you can't get any cheaper than what you see on the web site.
I did see this at the show in N.Y. and took some samples. I took them home and tried to scratch and gouge the surfice. Very durable product,
so i'm going to do my interior first and then my exterior swim platform. i intend to do my own install to keep costs down. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 25-02-2010, 10:24   #15
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i met the rep pierre from nuteak last year at the catalina 27 convention at silva bay very nice fellow knows his product very well and can give you some great examples. pm me if anyone wants his contact info.,
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