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Old 10-02-2010, 09:49   #1
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Cabin Sole Refinish

I want to refinish the Teak / Holley floor in the cabin and I'm not sure what to use.
Most of the topics that come up in the search are a few years old and the recomended product seems to have gone out of business.
I've seen people use West System epoxy, Home Depot Polyeurothane, and gym floor sealant.
For our use the non-skid properties are more important than the high gloss, especially on the stairs.

Any thoughts?
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Old 10-02-2010, 10:35   #2
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Varnishing

We just redid the cabin sole on our boat about six months ago, what a job!

We looked around at many of the products out there and decided to use Epifanes. They have several products and we used the standard clear varnish for 6 coats then changed to the Rubbed Effect for an additional 5 coats. The result was not a shiny finish as the Rubbed Effect is a satin, deeper color that dries to a rock hard finish. Their literature was not lying when they said that is nearly impervious to whatever you drop on it and had proved to be very scuff resistant also (we hope to never have to do it again!). Here is the website:
Epifanes


Please note when you are shopping that you shake the cans around from the different products, you will see that the cheaper ones have the consistency of water and the better ones will seem more like a milkshake.

I cannot stress enough that the prep work before you ever open the first can of varnish will determine how well your job comes out. Take your time and do it all right in the beginning and you will be pleased with the results.

Here are a couple of pictures both of the standard clear and the rubbed effect.

Clear Finish around coat #3


Satin Finish around coat #8
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Old 10-02-2010, 11:08   #3
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On the stairs I use a non skid tape. (I think from 3M)
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Old 10-02-2010, 11:14   #4
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Varnish simply does not have the durability of the newer two part catalized urethanes. After all is said and done you might as well make all your hard work last as long as possible: Bristol Finish Home

P.S Beautiful work S/V Geneve!
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Old 10-02-2010, 11:16   #5
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Geneve, That looks real nice! How is it for non-skid? What about when wet?

Lancelot, I was hoping to avoid using tape.

For the wood floor boards in the dinghy I used topside paint mixed with non-skid powder; turned out nice. Has anyone tried ths approach with a clear varnish?
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Old 10-02-2010, 12:41   #6
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Amytom: The non-skid it good for everything except for oil based liquids. Because of the smooth finish of the final product anything oily can become very slick. I don't know of any product that this would not be the case with though. Your idea of using a non-skid additive is interesting, but I think it would be very difficult to work with in a varnish and keep any consistency in the finish.

cburger: the Bristol Finish system is very interesting to me for doing my exterior brightwork (my next project). Do you have first hand experience with this stuff or have you seen the results from someone else? The biggest advantage I see over any other product is that your dry time is so short, and there is no need for sanding between coats. Epifanes has been great for me and I was planning on using it for my exterior, but I can't find a weather window long enough to do the work! You need 24 hours between coats and sanding between coats is a must for adhesion. I will be doing some more research on their exterior products.
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Old 10-02-2010, 13:01   #7
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You have to spend a lot of hours looking like this


to finally make your boat look like this!


BTW it was about 95 degrees and 90% humidity during just about all of the time we were working, my wife and I both lost about 10 lbs apiece in water weight alone! We weren't running the AC or fans for fear of having dust all over our fresh coat of varnish. Now that I need to do my exterior wood it's 30 degrees outside and raining every week, you have to love the boating lifestyle!
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Old 10-02-2010, 13:12   #8
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[QUOTE

cburger: the Bristol Finish system is very interesting to me for doing my exterior brightwork (my next project). Do you have first hand experience with this stuff or have you seen the results from someone else? The biggest advantage I see over any other product is that your dry time is so short, and there is no need for sanding between coats. Epifanes has been great for me and I was planning on using it for my exterior, but I can't find a weather window long enough to do the work! You need 24 hours between coats and sanding between coats is a must for adhesion. I will be doing some more research on their exterior products.[/QUOTE]

15 years extensive real world experince with Bristol on mine and customers boats. I spent two months redoing the cap rails and rub rails on the my Wetsail 32 last summer. It has become the only product I use for brightwork. When all is said and done no one but you will know its not traditional varnish. The make a one part satin finish also, I have never used that, don't see the point.

CB
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Old 10-02-2010, 13:21   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s/v Geneve View Post
BTW it was about 95 degrees and 90% humidity during just about all of the time we were working, my wife and I both lost about 10 lbs apiece in water weight alone
looks like your dog is the only one that had a good time during the process
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Old 10-02-2010, 13:31   #10
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Amytom: I'm sorry, I don't mean to highjack your thread.

CB: how many coats of the Bristol are you using on the brightwork?

gonesail: you're right!
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Old 10-02-2010, 13:57   #11
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Quote:
Your idea of using a non-skid additive is interesting, but I think it would be very difficult to work with in a varnish and keep any consistency in the finish.
I have used SharkGrip® Slip Resistant Additive with very good success. You can order it online or find it at most paint and home improvement stores. I have only ever used this brand so I cannot speak from something of "similar" quality.

**. The stuff is just about invisible and cannot be good for your lungs so keep it low and avoid breezes while putting on.
**. Test on a hidden piece or scrap. The effects on the coating vary by type and brand.
**. Start without mixing it into the coating . Instead, apply it as a light dusting after the final coat. Keep the amount small, a little does go a long way and more is not better (at least not from a finished look)
**. If you must mix it to keep a consistent look, mix it into the last coat. Apply as you would the finish coat. If you mix it and sand the final coat, I am unsure how it will look as I never took that approach.
**. Avoid small, defined sections of a large flat surface that have a gloss finish. Stairs, ladders, etc. seem fine. The entryway by the house door looks a little dusty if you stand back. Not enough to redo, but I cannot say invisible on a sunny day (Of course neither is the real dust so it looks fine to me)

I have no association with Sharkgrip, yada, yada, yada...
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Old 10-02-2010, 14:03   #12
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I have also had very good results with Bristol 2-part varnish. Easy to use and lasts a very long time.
Back to the cabin sole for a moment. How did you go about stripping the old finish? I have several spots that have darkened over time so I think I need to strip down to bare wood. Since I know this only a veneer I need to be very careful. Any advice would be helpful.
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Old 10-02-2010, 20:17   #13
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Originally Posted by cabo View Post
How did you go about stripping the old finish? I have several spots that have darkened over time so I think I need to strip down to bare wood. Since I know this only a veneer I need to be very careful. Any advice would be helpful.
I will only strip using a heat gun and putty knife or similar tool. It is very easy and allows you to get to the bare wood without over-sanding or chemicals. Once you get used to it you can move quite quickly across the surface. I'm sure others have methods they like as well, but this is the best way IMO.

DB
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:19   #14
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[QUOTE=s/v Geneve;402002]Amytom: I'm sorry, I don't mean to highjack your thread.QUOTE]


No worries, we're all learning something here.
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:30   #15
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Is ultimate Sole gone? When clicking on products on their website it comes up empty.
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