Cabin Sole Access Htaches and Fittings

[PMorby]

Finally a lurker comes out of the shadows!
Great web site – source of most of my best ideas!
In the final stages of a refit of my Pedrick 41 – I need help/input on what access hatches to include in the replacement cabin sole.
Currently, the cabin sole is teak and holly ply, with access hatches for:
1. Bilge Pumps
2. A/C raw water inlet
3. Fresh water tank drain valve and Fresh water supply isolating valve
4. Depth transducer and Fuel Tank Drain
5. Speed transducer
6. Terminal block near foot of mast for wind/nav lights etc
The replacement sole will be ½ inch ply and solid ¼ inch teak and holly – I want a really clean look, as such I want advice on:
1. Hidden fasteners to hold sole to wooden (teak) floor cross members/braces
2. I plan to reduce the access hatches to just one larger hatch, which would access the 3 x bilge pump inlets and would also allow access to A/C raw water inlet.I reason:Fresh water tank isolating valves, Depth transduces and Fuel Tank drain, terminal block for mast lights etc so rarely used/accessed, I would just take up the sole.Speed transducer is blanked off – I am using GPS.
Am I kidding myself – do I really need to have fast access to these valves, transducers terminal blocks?
Your comments appreciated, cheers Pete

[Steadman Uhlich]

IMO, smaller is better for most. One large may cause unforeseen issues later.

[JPA Cate]

Am I kidding myself – do I really need to have fast access to these valves, transducers terminal blocks?

Do you really want to lift the whole cabin sole every time you need to check a connection at the base of the mast for corrosion?

If you're planning a very large access hatch, be sure to put in sturdy reinforcers on the underneath of the new sole to stiffen it under the hatch, too, and reinforce the surround. Generally, in a well built boat, even the small access hatches are carefully edge-reinforced. The cabin sole should remain firm even when a very large man walks on it.

Ann

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Pete.

[a64pilot]

Yes, you need fast access, no tools required, multiple smaller ones is better in my mind as that way the hole to fall into is smaller and you have a much smaller thing to set aside. Plus, you can't have too much access, I promise. Mine are removed by means of a large carriage bolt that sits flush, but you can easily get a fingernail under the head of the carriage bolt, doesn't look bad and your not disguising the hatch anyway.
God knows how I didn't break my leg between the ankle and knee when I fell into one of mine by forgetting I had the thing open, and I was working there, you wouldn't think I'd forget would you?

[kjdavie01]

You need access - to everything! Really, if there's anything you decide you'll "never have to access", that's the system or item that will break first. Repeatedly. It's Murphy's Law.
Perhaps you could reduce the number of hatches to 2 or three larger, but not too large? Not over 20# (9 Kg) each?

[canman]

Following up on the question of fittings. I'd also like advice on how to keep floorboards locked in place ( in case of a knockdown) with easy quick tool less access.

[meirriba]

Originally Posted by kjdavie01

You need access - to everything! Really, if there's anything you decide you'll "never have to access", that's the system or item that will break first. Repeatedly. It's Murphy's Law.
Perhaps you could reduce the number of hatches to 2 or three larger, but not too large? Not over 20# (9 Kg) each?

This is the gospel!
As many access hatches as possible!
On our boat you can easily take off the whole sole (cat - both hulls) - I have no regrets, only blessing to the arrangement.

[DeepFrz]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

God knows how I didn't break my leg between the ankle and knee when I fell into one of mine by forgetting I had the thing open, and I was working there, you wouldn't think I'd forget would you?

Oh yes, I can relate.

[DeepFrz]

Southco M1-63-8 2 Inch Stainless Flush Pull Boat Hatch Latch | Great Lakes Skipper
a hatch latch

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by canman

Following up on the question of fittings. I'd also like advice on how to keep floorboards locked in place ( in case of a knockdown) with easy quick tool less access.

PYI has the best system I have seen, but they are expensive if you need more than just a couple.

-- PYI Inc. Max-Prop PSS Shaft Seal Seaview Radar Mounts R&D --

Matt

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Southco M1-63-8 2 Inch Stainless Flush Pull Boat Hatch Latch | Great Lakes Skipper
a hatch latch

The only thing I don't like about those latches is the amount of crud they collect.

[Tayana42]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Southco M1-63-8 2 Inch Stainless Flush Pull Boat Hatch Latch | Great Lakes Skipper
a hatch latch

I'd need a batch of hatch latch but that's a lot of scratch.


S/V B'Shert

[JPA Cate]

Good one Tayana 42.

Ann

[Stumble]

I have not tried this yet, but next time I get motivated to mess with my cabin sole its onthe list.

Instead of messing with latches i am going to route out a small slit in the underside of the boards and epoxy in neodinium magnets matched to a thin slip of steel epoxied into place. A 1/2"X1/2"X1/8" square in each corner of the board would have an attractive force of about 30lbs. Easily enough to keep it down even in a roll over, would require no tools to open, and should last forever.

K&J Magnetics: B882