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Old 24-11-2006, 14:30   #16
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Kai Nui, where did you see in that article not to use epoxy?
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Old 24-11-2006, 15:06   #17
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CMD, it was in the article you posted the link to. Page 3 "Considerations For Water Tanks" It is formed as a disclaimer.
Mike, if you come accross the product name, I would be very interested.
I am still not ruling out epoxy, but do have reservations.
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Old 24-11-2006, 15:44   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Nui
CMD, it was in the article you posted the link to. Page 3 "Considerations For Water Tanks" It is formed as a disclaimer.
Mike, if you come accross the product name, I would be very interested.
I am still not ruling out epoxy, but do have reservations.
I remember going down this decision road awhile back too. Epoxy/Glass tanks are common for f/w, waste & fuel. So regardless if you built them with epoxy or other resins you can line them with other materials. Theres documentation somewhere about the Rhino & Line-X type of bedliners being used in boats to line tanks including FW, waste & diesel fuel. Yes, some are certified as safe for food handling operations (FW storage) I can't put my finger on it right now but I will find it. We'll probably use these or similar for deck coverings and lining things like the chain locker etc. I'm heavily leaning towards the roto-molded poly tanks.
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Old 24-11-2006, 15:51   #19
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I searched all over to find that thread, but it seems to be gone. I do remember it. I am familiar with thr rhino lining process, and woud not consider it for potable water. The roto molded tanks are nice but too expensive for my blood. I like the idea of wood and epoxy tanks if I could make them work.
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Old 24-11-2006, 16:14   #20
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Tank coatings for food or potable water contact.

http://www.inspection.gc.ca/english/...ence/d4e.shtml

So basically you can build the tank from whatever you got then coat the surfaces that will come in contact with the potable water with one of these.
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Old 25-11-2006, 05:13   #21
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I need to check with my resin supplier Jeffco to see if there is a issue with potable water and epoxy. Could be a cure related issue. Jack
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Old 25-11-2006, 09:28   #22
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Knottybuoyz, great link. Exactly what I was looking for. Allot of info to go through, but I think they will have what I need.
Stevens47. The issue is wit the curing process. If the epoxy is a perfect mix, and cured at the perfect temp, it is completely safe. However, since I am not building in a lab, I suspect perfection may be out of reach. That is what Gudgeon Bros. is warning about. Even with minor imperfections, the tanks should be safe, but not sure I want to risk it. Especially if there is another alternative.
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Old 25-11-2006, 14:04   #23
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What about separate drinking and other water...

It looks like I will have to make custom water tanks from plywood and epoxy.
I feel that the risk of the water becoming contaminated is too large with almost any water tank so I am leaning towards having a separate drinking water supply, possibly large bottles (2-5 litres).
One of the few systems on my boat that works really well is a camping type water dispenser on the bench. It always gives off fresh tasting water.
I have seen how wave action giving an oxygen rich surface will go through any paint (really noticable on a steel boat). There are also possible leeching effects. If the shower/washing water is separate the the tanks could be seriously disinfected.
Has anyone gone this way? Can anyone advise on how much drinking water one needs, and how it is best stored and dispensed?
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Old 25-11-2006, 14:43   #24
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Here is a pdf file for building fiberglass tanks that might be of interest.

8912byofiberglasstanks.pdf
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Old 25-11-2006, 15:56   #25
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I built a watertank out of ply/epoxy for my trimaran. The tank holds 35 gallons and I used 3/8 fir plywood. It has one baffle with an inspection /cleanout port for each section. A guy who had built and lived aboard a Searunner 40 for 20 years advised me on this. He used 1/2 inch ply but decided it did not need to be that heavy so I used 3/8 with no problem. I covered the inside with 6 oz cloth but it is not critical what cloth you use as it is not a structural element. It is there because fir ply will check, and eventually crack a resin only coating. Those of you overseas with easy access to better quality mahogany, okume, merenti, etc, type of plywood could use a resin only coating. I would not use a polyester resin due to it's questionable bonding to plywood and I believe it contains styrene. If you decide to go this route let me know and I can give you some info on how I put mine together.
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Old 25-11-2006, 17:07   #26
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Steve, I would be very interested in any info you can get me. That sounds like what I originally had in mind. Have you had any issues with taste, and have you inspecte the interior of the tanks for any issues?
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Old 25-11-2006, 20:05   #27
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After I let the tank cure for a few weeks I dumped a gallon of vinegar in and flipped it from side to side and end for end, letting it sit for an hour in each position. Have not had a problem with taste but some may argue I had bad taste to begin with.

Get some good ply, A/B or marine if you can get it easily, B/C would work but don't use CDX, it's crap. If the tank is larger then 35 gallons you may want to fit a baffle. My baffle makes contact on all four sides with rounded cut outs in each corner. I cut all the pieces out of a sheet of 3/8 ply and test fit it all together. Decide which piece will be the "shutter plank" (as a wood boat guy you know what I mean) most likely the bottom but it could be a side depending on tank shape and set it aside. Rip out a 3/4x3/4 strip of wood out of whatever you have handy and glue this around the perimeter of the two end pieces on the outside face. This will give you a good glueing surface, clamping edge, and handhold for lifting the tank. Take all the other pieces and coat all the edges with thin resin and then lay out the cloth and wet it out on the interior sides. It is okay if the cloth hangs over the side as it is easy to trim off with a utility knife once it reaches a semi cured "green" state. Try and keep the edges that will come in contact with the "shutter plank" free of epoxy. Give it a second coat to fill the weave of the cloth. I used woven cloth but matt would work altho I find it messier to work with. Let this kick off and reach a "green" state and then start putting it together. Mix up some epoxy with silica thickener to a peanut butter state and use this for glue and apply liberaly. On the ends you will have a nice glueing surface due to the 3/4 "nailing strips" and can use C-clamps to hold things together but don't overtighten and squeeze all the glue out. Epoxy likes sloppy joints. The side joints will just butt against each other Use a few finish nails or small screws to hold things in place. I used pipe clamps because I have quite a few. Whatever works. So now you have a box with one open side. For the next step I like to use silica/high density filler combination with epoxy mixed to a spreadable non-sagging consistancy. Cut youself a rounded plastic squeegy something like soup can diameter and spread a nice rounded fillet in all the corners and butt joints on the interior of the tank. This gives you a strong structural joint and an easy to clean tank interior with no sharp corners and hard to get at areas. That is probably enough for one day so let that set up and cure. The last step will be to cut your holes for the cleanout ports in the top, the larger the better. Also sand the cured epoxy around the open end and up inside about an inch. Take the "shutter plank" piece and give it the cloth and two coats of epoxy treatment and then glue it in place. Reach in thru the cleanout ports and apply the rounded epoxy fillet on the inside. Seal the edges of the cleanout port cutouts. Tape all the exterior side joints with 2 layers of 2 inch fiberglass tape (the ends don't need it because of the nailer strips) and coat the whole exterior with two or three coats of epoxy. If the tank will sit in a damp area you may want to put a layer of cloth on the exterior bottom and up the sides several inches. You can also add pigment to the resin to give a white interior but I prefer the clear coating as it is easy to spot a breach in the sheathing if it happens. The baffle will have some exposed end grain so make sure this gets several coats of epoxy in this area.
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Old 25-11-2006, 22:30   #28
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Steve, thank you for that great detailed description. I will try a tank next week. All of mine will be small (10-20 gallons). So no baffles. I will be placing them in the bilge. I will pace them on small stringers to allow water to flow below them. I am guessing I can get about 100 gallons in the bilge in 6 tanks. I will build a 7th tank for holding after the lectra san.
Besides the joints, did you use any filler with the glass? If so, what did you use? I have used the Coloidal silica when glassing the deck to help fill any voids, and increase adhesion. I have found this to create imperfections in the mix, even with the two pot method. No big deal with a deck, but I would think it could cause chemical leaching in a tank.
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Old 25-11-2006, 22:51   #29
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Just straight resin on the cloth with no filler. The high density filler from West with or without the silica makes a nice smooth fillet in the corners. The silica helps it hold it's shape and not sag but is not necessary.
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Old 25-11-2006, 23:19   #30
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Got it. I will give it a try. I will try the vinegar thing. I will try the holding tank first, and test some fresh water after 30 days. I figure if anything is going to leach out, that should be sufficient time to show up.
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