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Old 16-04-2011, 15:39   #31
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Re: Broken EZ Out

Thanks Del:

I'll try fastenal
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Old 20-04-2011, 12:44   #32
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Re: Broken EZ Out

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Originally Posted by skipmac View Post
Now I'm certain that I'm the only one dumb enough to let this happen so consider this a confession and not advice. Besides, I'm probably the last one on the forum to figure this out.

Once again in the course of repair I ran into a screw that would not give. In this case a set screw holding the cutlass bearing in the shaft strut. Tried the usual technique; soak, heat and beat, resoak, wait a week, soak again, reheat, tap, tap harder, speak a few unkind words about the screw and demean it's family and beat on it some more. No joy.

So, last resort, drill a pilot hole and insert EZ Out. Very slowly and carefully apply pressure but still, snap and there it is, a piece of hardened steel broken off flush in the strut. First a few more unkind words about the screw, the EZ Out and boat repair in general then look for the toughest drill bits I have to see if I can drill out the EZ Out. No joy there either. Made a tiny little hole and a shiny spot, that's about all. Tried a stone grinding bit on the Dremel with no better luck.

So go to the local big box store to see what other bits and pieces they might have or see if they have a department that sells dynamite. Found some $10-15 high speed carbide and diamond bits for the Dremel and picked up three assorted sizes and shapes.

Next day, high speed carbide bit and 15 minutes I had a nice clean hole with no EZ Out and no set screw. Still have to clean out the hole and retap for a larger screw but that part is easy.

Not cheap but will keep a few of these little goodies in the tool box.
I too have had no luck with EZ outs. However, my current problem is with a broken tap at the base of a stanchion. My stanchions fit into a 4 inch long stainless steel pipe base welded to the toe rail. I went to put 1/4-20 machine screws into the base to hold the stanchions in, and got them all done but one. Broke that puppy off below the surface. So far I've tried a tap extractor, turned that into a mangle piece of scrap, and have left that stanchion there for the last two years. I'll have to try the dremel tool this time.

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Old 20-04-2011, 13:39   #33
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Re: Broken EZ Out

Just a suggestion that AFTER getting the miserable, broken s.o.b. out and making a nice new, clean threaded hole for the new bolt/machine screw---GO GET THE NEVER-SEIZE! It should be considered required equipment on all boats. There ought to be a Coast Guard regulation requiring its use on all threaded things aboard any boat.
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Old 20-04-2011, 13:50   #34
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Re: Broken EZ Out

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Originally Posted by smurphny View Post
Just a suggestion that AFTER getting the miserable, broken s.o.b. out and making a nice new, clean threaded hole for the new bolt/machine screw---GO GET THE NEVER-SEIZE! It should be considered required equipment on all boats. There ought to be a Coast Guard regulation requiring its use on all threaded things aboard any boat.
I'll vote for that.
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Old 20-04-2011, 16:33   #35
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Re: Broken EZ Out

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Originally Posted by SabreKai View Post
I too have had no luck with EZ outs. However, my current problem is with a broken tap at the base of a stanchion. My stanchions fit into a 4 inch long stainless steel pipe base welded to the toe rail. I went to put 1/4-20 machine screws into the base to hold the stanchions in, and got them all done but one. Broke that puppy off below the surface. So far I've tried a tap extractor, turned that into a mangle piece of scrap, and have left that stanchion there for the last two years. I'll have to try the dremel tool this time.

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Tapping SS can be a bitch, especially 304L. It's gummy and will stick to the tap. There is a special cutting oil that Machinists (I) use called Moly-Dee. Good for aluminum too. It's also used as a gear oil in some gear boxes.


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Old 20-04-2011, 17:00   #36
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Re: Broken EZ Out

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I've had good luck with left handed drill bits but the store in town where I used to get them doesn't sell them anymore. Does anyone know where I can get a set of these?
Snap-on tools sells them.
snapon.com
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Old 21-04-2011, 10:28   #37
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Re: Broken EZ Out

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Originally Posted by delmarrey View Post
Tapping SS can be a bitch, especially 304L. It's gummy and will stick to the tap. There is a special cutting oil that Machinists (I) use called Moly-Dee. Good for aluminum too. It's also used as a gear oil in some gear boxes.


It wasn't the tapping that got me. That part was easy. I have an industrial cutting tapping fluid that I've been using for years. It was the awkward position and a sudden side thrust on the tap that did me in. I got a cramp in my leg. Snap. The tap is actually loose in the hole but there's a burr or something jamming it up. I'll try grinding it out with the Dremel. Actually I'll be trying that today.

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Old 21-04-2011, 10:39   #38
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Re: Broken EZ Out

CCW Left Hand Drill Bits & E-Z Out Extractors

Irwin Left Handed Drill Bits & Screw Extractors

Left Hand Drill Bits | Titanium | Wood | Metric | Cobalt Drill Bit Set
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Old 21-04-2011, 10:41   #39
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tap extractor

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Originally Posted by SabreKai View Post
It wasn't the tapping that got me. That part was easy. I have an industrial cutting tapping fluid that I've been using for years. It was the awkward position and a sudden side thrust on the tap that did me in. I got a cramp in my leg. Snap. The tap is actually loose in the hole but there's a burr or something jamming it up. I'll try grinding it out with the Dremel. Actually I'll be trying that today.

Sabre
Then there are these for three or 4 flute taps. Since it's not seized then it should come out easily with one of these.

Tap Extractors for Machine Screw, Hand, Pipe & STI Taps | Walton

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Old 21-04-2011, 10:45   #40
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Re: Broken EZ Out

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my ratio of snapped off easy outs to actual, successful broken bolt removal is probably about 20:1. I hate easy outs and try almost any alternative first. I second your use of Dremel tools for this.
20:1? That's a higher rate of success than I've had.
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Old 21-04-2011, 12:12   #41
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Re: Broken EZ Out

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20:1? That's a higher rate of success than I've had.
That's where experience has the advantage. In the 45 years I've been doing machine work I've only lost 3 EZ outs and 6 taps, and I remember each one of them. It cost money in a the profession to break stuff, especially these days.

In aluminum/brass parts I was able to use nitric acid to get out the tiny taps (< #10).
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Old 21-04-2011, 23:36   #42
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Re: Broken EZ Out

I did use a tap extractor. Turned it into mangled scrap. I'll try getting the burr out and then try the extractor again. After that is a center punch and a 5 lb hand sledge.


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Old 25-04-2011, 16:18   #43
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Re: Broken EZ Out

The Aero-Kroil spray was mentioned as a good penetrant . I agree ...the orange can is the best penetrant i ever used! Beats all other penetrants in my experience.

Very good information posted here, thanks Del!
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Old 25-04-2011, 17:44   #44
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Re: Broken EZ Out

Oy vey! I'm getting a headache from reading this :-) The memories... The agony... #(*#$_@)$* EZ-outs! !@(#)$(# rusty bolts!

One thing nobody has mentioned. Is there ANY possible way you can just leave the bloody thing where it is and live with it? Would some duct tape help? :-) Perhaps a wire coat hanger?
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Old 25-04-2011, 17:48   #45
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Re: Broken EZ Out

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Oy vey! I'm getting a headache from reading this :-) The memories... The agony... #(*#$_@)$* EZ-outs! !@(#)$(# rusty bolts!

One thing nobody has mentioned. Is there ANY possible way you can just leave the bloody thing where it is and live with it? Would some duct tape help? :-) Perhaps a wire coat hanger?
Yeah! Could just epoxy on a screw head and sell the boat.
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