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Old 27-11-2009, 16:02   #1
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Bristol 34 Mast Step

Does anyone out there have a pic of a Bristol 34' (a 35 might do) mast step in place (keel stepped) or the measurements? We pulled the fragments and the rust pile that used to be our step out of the bilge and it's totally shot! Steel plate used to be around 9"x14", 1" or so thick and slotted fore and we think aft as well but it's hard to tell. The steel had rusted and "delaminated" and crumbled in our hands. We need to fabricate a new one, probably from aluminum block and have it milled.
Thx!
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Old 27-11-2009, 22:27   #2
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The B35 is deck stepped do it won't do.
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Old 28-11-2009, 07:03   #3
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Ok this is going to sound weird but poured concrete works well for this type of repair. When i first heard about it I thought it was crazy but the more I thought about it the more it made sense. Cast in some rebar and the studs to secure your base plate and you are good to go. It makes sense if you think about it as concrete has very good compressive strength and loves to be under water. It will not corrode and will get stronger with age. Also much cheaper than having a new step fabricated. This has been done on Endeavor's with the steel mast step where it is almost impossible to replace the step. Not sure it will work in your case but worth thinking about.

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Old 28-11-2009, 08:41   #4
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why don't you contact Bristol Yachts in R.I. they will have the info in archive
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Old 28-11-2009, 10:17   #5
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Ok this is going to sound weird but poured concrete works well for this type of repair.”
I will be removing my mast on a 42 foot Maple leaf because the cabin top is sagging about 1”
I traced the problem to the Foot in the bilge supporting a post in the cabin which intern supports the cabin top. I have been at a in pass thinking how I would repair the foot several pieces of wood at different angles to mate to bottom and sides of hull and keel area.
I have thought of using epoxy which would have to be quite thick but would give good bonding to the sides. I like the Idea of using cement but wonder if there would be problems bonding to the fibreglass on the bottom and the sides ?? any Ideas or help
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Old 28-11-2009, 11:33   #6
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Sergy

If you could post a picture or two it would help me see you situation and give you a better answer.

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Old 28-11-2009, 15:06   #7
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Thanks Wayne
Unfortunatly I do not know how to post a picture.????
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Old 28-11-2009, 16:04   #8
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Sergy the only way to bond the cement would to pour it in place let it cure move it out of the way then wet hull and concrete with epoxy, then make a bog with micro ballons smear on top of hull and set concrete back in place and let cure.
me personally i think this is a lousy way of fixing a mast step. i would rather make one out of cloth and resin, or have one made out of aluminum same material as mast less chance of corrosion
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Old 28-11-2009, 17:31   #9
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Mike no need to remove it it will lock in place just like it does in dirt for a fence post. I know this does not at first sound like a good idea but if you open your mind and think about it, it makes perfect sense. Aluminum will and does corrode in the bilge it is not as strong and requires careful support. Fiberglass and epoxy have great tensile strength but not so great compressive strength. The concrete is just the opposite. And it will not corrode at all what could be better? I did not think it was a good idea at first either but i have seen it done and know it works well and the more you think about it the more it makes sense just got to get over the idea that is is not a boat building material. Sometimes it helps to think out of the box.

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Old 28-11-2009, 19:37   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishman_Tx View Post
Does anyone out there have a pic of a Bristol 34' (a 35 might do) mast step in place (keel stepped) or the measurements? We pulled the fragments and the rust pile that used to be our step out of the bilge and it's totally shot! Steel plate used to be around 9"x14", 1" or so thick and slotted fore and we think aft as well but it's hard to tell. The steel had rusted and "delaminated" and crumbled in our hands. We need to fabricate a new one, probably from aluminum block and have it milled.
Thx!
I would contact Metalmast Marine first. They were involved with the original spars at Bristol and can most certainly help you. Please don't pour concrete into your Bristol.

DCProducts 860-908-9409 (AKA Metalmast)
275 Kate Bowning Rd.
Plainfield, CT 06374
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Old 29-11-2009, 11:21   #11
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Cement seems to be a good fit to me.
I used to have a 33 foot Yorktown and had some blisters around the Keel Though I fixed it with epoxy it seemed that the encapsulated keel was made with cement and pig Iron. Good weight.
An old boat builder recommended I do the repair with cement instead of Epoxy.
My biggest fear with cement is when we begin using rebar for strength which could rust away.
There are many ferrous cement boats out there and their biggest weakness is the rusting rebar.
Wayne could a person pour a cement mixture without the rebar ??
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Old 29-11-2009, 12:25   #12
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If you need to re-inforce the concrete, use drawn fiberglass rebar. It is light green in color, and is used in dock construction. I am not referring to the green epoxy-coated steel rebar.
Actually, in an enclosed space, I don't see why you would need re-inforcing. 6" diameter, 12" high test cores for construction concrete have to test out at 3500psi with no support, in the press.
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Old 29-11-2009, 13:19   #13
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I think Blue might be right I do not think you would need much in the way of reinforcing. I think if I were doing it I would mix in some chopped fibers just to make me feel better, would not hurt. I would not worry about the cement bonding to the fiberglass sides so much as long as you have the dams at the ends it is not going any place. You could cap it off with a layer of CSM just to seal it off and stop water from getting down the sides. I would not set the wood compression post into a pocket or anything but would rather have a aluminum plate bolted to the concrete with cast in studs just like they do in building construction. Wood directly contacting cement is not a good idea do to moisture wicking. Let me know what the bottom of your compression post looks like when you get it apart.

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Old 30-11-2009, 08:13   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike d. View Post
why don't you contact Bristol Yachts in R.I. they will have the info in archive
They won't, from what I hear, even talk about it. i've heard a few people talk about the cold shoulder they got from Bristol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaWriter View Post
I would contact Metalmast Marine first. They were involved with the original spars at Bristol and can most certainly help you. Please don't pour concrete into your Bristol.

DCProducts 860-908-9409 (AKA Metalmast)
275 Kate Bowning Rd.
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Thx David! Once again your a life saver!
Re: Concrete - I DON'T THINK SO! All else fails, I was gonna mill a piece of aluminum block myself and customize it to fit. The original studs are shot and won't be reused for mounting but will be used for holding the poured epoxy "bedding" for the new foot. New 316SS studs(bolts) will be put in to mount the base. Also, I've got to cut about 1-1/2 to 2" of nastiness off the bottom of the mast.
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Old 30-11-2009, 08:32   #15
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why don't you contact Bristol Yachts in R.I. they will have the info in archive
There is no yard, no Bristol Yacht Co and hasn't been for more than a decade. There is no archive, no stored plans, no knowledgebase, no nothin. Some of the designers are still alive and working, like Halsey Herreshoff. Some of the craftsmen, such as some of the folks working at Metalmast Marine are still in business, but you have to hunt and peck to find them. Some spar parts are also available thru Rigrite. The original stanchions are still made by Tops in Quality in MI.

There is a yacht broker in that same location named "Bristol Marine" but they have no affiliation with the old yard. Even when the company was solvent they were not at all interested in helping owners of older Bristols.
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