ALLAN. FWIW...Cant see you buying
a new one. And if it were mine I know I can fix it easily... clearly it is attached to the deck
efficiently so no problems there.
That stem head
fitting is made from cast alluminium. In essence that fitting performs two functions:
Primarily it's a forestay attachment...secondly it's docking
line router, and is still OK in that function...cost a fortune to have a similar thing fabricated out of 316..
Back to primary function. The vertical section, which has previously snapped off at the aft most hole....reasons being eg alloy work hardens to start with and a loosish forestay will 'work' the alloy and snap it. Secondly...316 ss forestay attachment to an alloy fitting, add an electrolyte and bad must happen sooner or later.
Frankly it looks from the image to have been seriously under sized/engineered given that is a cheap
casting having little tensile strength...especially where it is need most, to hold the mast
If it were mine today, apart from making a new one out of 316 which is a bit exie, I know i can fix it quite easily. First I would relocate the forestay temporarily, just get it out of the way.
Next, I'd take an angle grinder to the verticlt bit, cutting it and it's awful holes off completely and toss the scraps into the bin.
Now, after grinding, you are left with a smooth flat surface, yes I know it's curved, but it can take a curved plate of 316 ss on top. And Im suggesting, having only a few images
for guidance, that about 1/4" plate would be right.
Presently the forestay is attached to alloy. Im my model it will be attached to piece of 1/4" ss welded vertically onto the new ss baseplate. The verticle part will have numerous holes drilled.
The present casting can stay esp as it it fitted well AND it serves other useful purposes.
Now you cut a template, a pattern, of the top surface, ant the pattern will come out to within app 1/2" of the fittings side verticles.
The new top plate will have neen rolled by whoever is going to weld on the verticle forestay piece.
The radius need for the correct "roll" you can trace by pencil from a piece of light cardbord held vertically athwartships. This trace will be the radius so must be accurate.
Once the plate is shaped, welded and drilled, ready for fitting, it can have it's mounting holes drilled and countersunk ready to take the existing bolts/bolt holes which will probably need to be longer.
This new top plate should fit like a glove and you'be able to pick the boat up with it....if you so desire !?!?
Between the prettily ground alloy plate and the quite inexpensive top plate will be (someones coice) something like Duralac. The GOUGEON BROTHERS (WEST SYSTEM EPOXIES) would probably seal it on with an epoxy
bog and so would I but Duralac etc may be easier fot you.
Remember, it's the screws, 4 or how many? , that are holding the plate on.
The alternate to the above tiring ramble is to have a new e tire fitting fabricated from 316, in which case you' better love you boat heaps.
Were it it mine I can make this thing without leaving the boat but for you, couple of drawings/patterns made, not expensive.
Plenty of very capable on this Forum and so perhaps I'm about to be humbled. If so, graciously accepted...
Can barely see the keyboard so if errors forgive.
And the brain driving these eyes is considered by experts to be irreparable too.
Have fun Boy/Girl ?
Ps cant edit, not poss.