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Old 22-04-2010, 10:54   #1
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Bottom Paint Advice

I'm looking for some advice on bottom paint.

We have just spent 2 years sailing the East Coast of the US and Caribbean and have since returned to Ottawa Canada. It is now time to deal with the large amount of hard anti-fouling on the boat.

We are going to sand off all the Pettite Trinidad 1575 Hard Antifouling, so we are free to put anything on. We are looking for a paint that will do both the fresh water of the Great Lakes and Salt water of the Cairrbean where we hope to be again in the not too distant future.

What would you recommend for a hard paint?
What would you recommend for an ablative paint?

Thanks,
Geoff.
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Old 22-04-2010, 21:56   #2
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Wow - 11 hours and we don't have a pillow fight yet - LOL.

I am in the wrong region/conditions to advise you. I am sure there will be lots.

In our warm, very fertile environment I have been using 4 coats of Micron Extra (ablative blue) every 16 months or so. It's about the right cost benefit ratio for me.
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Old 24-04-2010, 22:25   #3
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You cannot do better than Petit Trinidad, IMHO.
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Old 25-04-2010, 00:36   #4
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Hi Ex Calif, I have a spare week before departing for Sumatra's West coast and my Adams 31' is showing some bare white patches on the trailing edges of the rudder and sides of the rudder, a fair bit of algae on the water line, a few barnacles on the keel where I rubbed off the antifoul going into boat lagoon.
It is 3 years since it was last antifouled by the PO.
I dont mind diving on her and scrubbing it clean.

Should I haul her and antifoul her in Langkawi, what do you suggest for the fibreglass hull, long lasting preferably?

I can haul her when I return in 7 months time. Presently at Langkawi.

Cheers from Keith.
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Old 25-04-2010, 02:52   #5
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I have the NEW Micron antifoul that came with a 2 year guarantee....its almost twice the price of regular Awlgrip ablative...but you gaiun on haulout and hardstand costs
We're heading for Tonga next week...our 2 yrs comes up in August..the antifoul is still working perfectly...no crustaceans, no weed...not even slime !
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Old 25-04-2010, 03:02   #6
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Ahoy Alan.
Thanks, that is an interlux product, was it the micron csc or which one please?
Fair winds from Keith.
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Old 25-04-2010, 03:17   #7
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No its not CSC..that doesn't last 5 minutes...its a new one...I'll have to look it up and get back to you .....

Cheers
Alan
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Old 25-04-2010, 03:40   #8
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its Micron 66 ...ablative with biocide...but no good for fresh water
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Old 25-04-2010, 05:26   #9
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Thanks very much Alan. How many coats should I give her? So how many litres for an Adams 31'?
Cheers mate.
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Old 25-04-2010, 07:56   #10
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I believe you can put most ablatives over the hard bottom paint. My vessel is currently done this way. The hard paint is black and used as an indicater coat to let us know when the top ablative "red" is getting thin.
The point here is if the condition of the hard paint you now have on the boat is good, I.E. it is not coming off the boat, removing it would be a waste of valuable time. As a previous poster has indicated, Petit is among the best bottom paints. If it is determined that the bottom is acceptable for a recoat the way it is it would be just a matter of powerwashing and scrubbing with water and a good long handled bristle brush and coating with the new product over the existing coating. Petit will have a paint compatability chart to tell you what bottom paints can be applied over the one already on the boat. Another point is that if the petit paint has been working well for your sailing conditions don't reinvent the wheel, stick with what works.

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Old 25-04-2010, 13:36   #11
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MICRON 66 Application

I think the 2 year gurantee is only if done by an authorised applicator

APPLICATION AND USE
Preparation
PREVIOUSLY PAINTED SURFACES:
In Good Condition:
TBT Copolymers: Wet sand surface with 80 grade (grit) paper to a clean firmly attached surface. Clean with Special Thinner 216. Prime with Primocon.
Non-TBT Copolymers & Hard Antifoulings: Wet sand surface with 80 grade (grit) paper to a clean firmly attached surface. Clean with Special Thinner 216.
In Poor Condition: Use Interstrip to remove all traces of antifouling. Sand and wipe clean with Fibreglass Solvent Wash 202.
BARE FIBERGLASS - (POLYESTER OR VINYLESTER): Clean and degrease with Fibreglass Solvent Wash 202 or use Fibreglass Surface Prep YMA601.
Sanding System -: Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Wipe with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. Repair defects with Watertite, then sand and wipe clean.
BARE WOOD: Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Clean with Special Thinner 216. Apply first coat reduced 10% with Special Thinner 216 or Brush-Ease 433. Fill seams, if necessary, with Seam Compound Brown 30. Repair defects with Watertite, then sand and wipe clean. Apply 2 additional coats.
STEEL/ALUMINIUM: Contact the Interlux Technical Service Department at 1-800-468-7589 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 1-800-468-7589 end_of_the_skype_highlighting for full information on how to properly prime underwater metals.
Method At least 2 coats should be applied. Apply an extra stripe coat in areas of high wear such as chines, rudders, sterngear and any leading edges.
Hints Thinner Special Thinner 216 or Brush-Ease 433.
Cleaner Painted Surfaces - Special Thinner 216. Bare Fiberglass - Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 or Fiberglass Surface Prep YMA601. Bare Wood - Brush-Ease 433.
Airless Spray Spraying can be done using the correct safety and spray equipment. Contact Interlux Technical Service for more information.
Conventional Spray Spraying can be done using the correct safety and spray equipment. Contact Interlux Technical Service for more information.
Some Important Points Product temperature should be minimum 5 deg C/40 deg F and maximum 35 deg C/95 deg F. Ambient temperature should be minimum 5 deg C/40 deg F and maximum 35 deg C/95 deg F. Substrate temperature should be minimum 5 deg C/40 deg F and maximum 35 deg C/95 deg F.
Compatibility/Substrates Surface must be dry and clean, and free from grease, detaching paint etc. Micron 66 can be applied to most popular antifouling paints as long as the old coating has been aged, is tightly adhered and is in sound condition. Do not apply Micron 66 over aluminum. Use Primocon primer as a conversion coat prior to application over tin-based copolymer antifouling paints.
Number of Coats 2-3 minimum Bare Wood: 3 coats (first thinned)
Coverage (Theoretical) - 320 (sq ft/Gal) by brush/roller
Recommended DFT 2.0 mils dry
Recommended WFT 5.1 mils wet Application Methods Brush, Roller
  • Finish: Matte
  • Specific Gravity:1.6
  • Volume Solids: 40%
  • Typical Shelf Life:2 yrs
  • VOC (As Supplied): 525 g/lt
  • Unit Size:1 US GALLON
  • Number of Coats:2-3 minimun, Bare Wood-3 coats (first thinned)
  • CoverageTheoretical) - 320 (ft/Gal)
  • Touch Dry Time: 41F-3 Hrs, 50F-2 Hrs, 73F-30 Min, 95F-30 Min
  • Immersion Dry Time: 41F-48 Hrs, 50F-16 Hrs, 73F-12 Hrs, 95F-8 Hrs
  • Note: Max. Immersion Times are as follows: 5-35 deg C/40-95 deg F - 30 days
  • Overcoating Time 41F: 12 hrs Min - , 50F-8 Hrs Min, 73F-6 Hrs Min, 95F 4 Hrs
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Old 25-04-2010, 18:25   #12
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Thanks again alan, I will get it organised for this week, I have a crew flying in soon and he has offered to help. Looks like I will net 2 gallons?
Keith
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Old 25-04-2010, 18:33   #13
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Hey Keith - We use the Micron Extra. The Micron 66 is a lot more expensive but I have heard a lot better things about it. I still don't think it would make 2 years in my local waters so i haven't tried it.
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Old 25-04-2010, 19:03   #14
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Ahoy Ex Calif, I am in Malaysia, stuff grows on the hull really fast! I will see what they have in stock at Rebak Marina.
Cheers.
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Old 26-04-2010, 00:13   #15
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I put micron 66 on in Phuket in March 2008 - I am very impressed

Since then the boat has been cruising the malasian peninsula, borneo, the philippines and has been sitting in Hong Kong lately - so about 6-7,000 miles and over two years.

It's now got to the stage where it probably needs redone

Previously, I'd considered 18 months in these waters exceptional.

If one factors in the cost of the haul out, I think the Micron 66 does present very good value.
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