Bonding overhead wood strips to the ceiling?

[atoll]

I have had very good results using pu expanding foam glue,cheap quick and even works better if the surface is damp,sticks well to lightly sanded fiberglass.

currently using a rapid pu 5minute cure PU Wood Adhesive 750ml - Brown gorilla glue is equally good with a 30 min cure time.

[Marqus]

Originally Posted by HopCar

Another adhesive / sealant I've been playing with lately is Sudbury.
The stuff is nicer to work with than 5200 as it skins over quickly and doesn't seem to get everywhere. It bonds well to both wood and fiberglass. It will even bond to Starboard without any special prep.

Nearly dropped my coffee when I read that.

Seriously, will it PERMANENTLY BOND Starboard without prep?? I didn't think anything could do that.

I'd love it to be the case - Hopcar, have you had such a bond that has held up in serious use for a length of time?

[HopCar]

Hi Marqus, They don't claim it is a structural bond but I have a sample on my desk that seems pretty secure. The sample is a small square of Starboard with another piece of Starboard glued to it. The second piece is about 1/2 x 1/2 x 1 inches. Pushing on it with my thumb, I can't move it. It will certainly make a mechanical joint stronger and allow you to waterproof the joint.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Marqus

Nearly dropped my coffee when I read that.

Seriously, will it PERMANENTLY BOND Starboard without prep?? I didn't think anything could do that.

I'd love it to be the case - Hopcar, have you had such a bond that has held up in serious use for a length of time?

Sudbury's dealers for Elastomeric have been given samples of Starboard attached to each other to show customers it works. As far as I know it is the only adhesive that does work with Starboard.

[maxingout]

Good information. Very helpful.

[Marqus]

Thanks for those posts Hopcar and Mitiempo.

[Sailorman Ed]

Thanks to everyone who replied - some great information and several products I was not aware of (Sudbury and PU wood adhesive). I really need some large gap filling qualities so may try the moisture cure PU first and if not happy, then try the Sudbury.

Hopcar - you seem to have a variety of good products - need to stop into your store when we get to FL. And also helpful suggestions - thanks.

[atoll]

Originally Posted by Sailorman Ed

Thanks to everyone who replied - some great information and several products I was not aware of (Sudbury and PU wood adhesive). I really need some large gap filling qualities so may try the moisture cure PU first and if not happy, then try the Sudbury.

Hopcar - you seem to have a variety of good products - need to stop into your store when we get to FL. And also helpful suggestions - thanks.

the PU is ideally suited to rough bumpy surfaces,it is a good idea to slightly abrade the surface especially if it has been previously painted.
trick is also not to use too much as it doubles in volume as it cures.

protect surfaces below as excess will drip

wear gloves as it takes days to come of skin

[Terra Nova]

Before sanding, CLEAN the surface with acetone or industrial alcohol.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by atoll

I have had very good results using pu expanding foam glue,cheap quick and even works better if the surface is damp,sticks well to lightly sanded fiberglass.

currently using a rapid pu 5minute cure PU Wood Adhesive 750ml - Brown gorilla glue is equally good with a 30 min cure time.

Yep... for the strips it would be great. He said he'd like something that fills the gap... Gorilla Glue, or the commercial equivalent, expands a lot and would fill all gaps. Waterproof and very tough. I have a small container of it and it seals the cap to the bottle so bad you cant get it open after using it once! I wouldn't worry about sanding or anything else with it.

[Oldhippiesailer]

Tree Sisters got it right. I have used contact cement, the same stuff used to adhere "Formica" type finish material to plywood for kitchen countertops. It works GREAT on fiberglass to wood installation. Covered every inch of exposed fiberglass inside a 26 foot sailboat 30 years ago and I understand its all still there.

Like 5200 though, once its there its there to stay! A little messy until you get the technique down. I am now replacing delaminating teak plywood on the insides of my Endeavor 37 with 2 1/4" wide and 1/4" thick mahogany vertical strips with micro-rounded edges the same way and its going great.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Oldhippiesailer

Tree Sisters got it right. I have used contact cement, the same stuff used to adhere "Formica" type finish material to plywood for kitchen countertops. It works GREAT on fiberglass to wood installation. Covered every inch of exposed fiberglass inside a 26 foot sailboat 30 years ago and I understand its all still there.

Like 5200 though, once its there its there to stay!

No kidding! Contact cement is very hard to remove later.

Personally I would use thickened epoxy.

[Terra Nova]

Contact cement works well on large areas, like attaching laminate to plywood. But it would be an exceedingly poor choice for bonding narrow furring strips to the overhead (or anywhere else, for that matter) because it is too weak.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Contact cement works well on large areas, like attaching laminate to plywood. But it would be an exceedingly poor choice for bonding narrow furring strips to the overhead (or anywhere else, for that matter) because it is too weak.

I have to agree with that. Contact/Landau glue works well for pieces that fit intimately together, but with gaps.. no way.

[Three Sisters]

The OP says that there has to be gap filling qualities to the adhesive so that rules out the Weldwood HHR.