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Old 12-04-2011, 07:35   #1
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Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Boat: 1975 Downeaster 38' Cutter
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Bobstay Chainplate Issues

My bobstay chainplate needs some work. When I hauled out, I noticed water dripping from the chainplate for a few weeks. When I finally took the mast and rigging down almost a year later, even more water started coming out of it. It definitely needs to be sealed up so water doesn't get in there, but after inspecting it I am now worried about serious crevice corrosion and am considering replacing it. However, I have no idea how to get it out. Most things on the boat were pretty self-explanitory to disassemble, but this one has my head scratching. The fittings on the interior are glassed in, and I am hesitant to start grinding it away until I get some advice on how to proceed. If you saw this on your boat, what would you do and how would you tackle it?


Here are pictures of the exterior and interior.

Notice the crack/gap around the edges, that is where the water came out of





The interior attachment is somewhere under all of that glass:

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Old 12-04-2011, 08:11   #2
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Re: Bobstay Chainplate Issues

I'll bet if you drill holes at the bottom of where it looks like it is on the inside you'll get a lot more w2ater coming out there. you definately want to take it out from the inside. you can take a cut off wheel around the perimeter of the plate showing the shape under the (40 oz (looks like)) peel away that layer and then probably pull the unit out. then i would grind the area flat and beef it up. have a new plate made and bolt it into place using butyl tape to bed it in, and where it comes out through the bow.
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:40   #3
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Re: Bobstay Chainplate Issues

Usually the bobstay tang is a T or Y shaped fitting that is made to fit the hull. It is not usually bolted but is glassed in on the inside.
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:42   #4
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Re: Bobstay Chainplate Issues

There have been pretty extensive discussions on this on the W32 websites. If I recall correctly the procedure is to haul out, grind out the glass behind the plate and pull the plate out. Put a new one in and make sure you caulk it going in with something like 101, flexibility is key. Then glass the back of the plate back to the inner hull.

On our W32 they replaced it and went with a different approach. They fabricated a new plate and bolted through. I'm not suggesting you do this, I'd stick with the way it was done from the factory. But if you want to go the way it was done on our boat I'll attach a photo.

As a side note, when you get a new plate fabricated, make sure you have the put a spot on it for attaching zincs if you go with SS.
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