Best wood for internal bracing etc

[FraidNot]

I'm doing some internal (non-structural) fixtures.
Going to epoxy some wood bearers to inner wall GRP - and then screw the new stuff to the wood.

So what type of wood is best to use?

[mrm]

I have mostly seen bits and pieces of marine grade plywood used in such applications, but maybe there is something better.

[Woodchuck]

If its not going to get wet you might as well use pine. Its cheap and easy to work with. I wouldn't waste money on "marine grade" anything if its going on the inside.

[mrm]

The point is, it will get wet at times. Think condensation...
And we are talking bearers, which normally are scrap pieces left from fabricating larger parts, and which can be had for a 'thank you' and a smile. Not much of a cost, imo. :-)
Another point to consider is tendency to split when screws are inserted. Pine is quite likely to split. But if it works for you, it is fine with me.

[osirissail]

Oak is quite good and available from Home Depot and other ordinary home repair stores. It is harder than pine and will hold the screws better. But epoxy the piece of oak after abrading the mating side, to the hull. Then cover the whole piece with epoxy and fiberglass finishing cloth. This seals the wood inside and water cannot get to it easily. Pre-drill your screw holes and put a dab of T52 on top of the pre-drilled hole. This then acts like a water seal so water cannot wick it way down the screw.

[s/vfootloose]

The red oak you get at home depot very prone to rot if it gets any moisture. White is the traditional framing wood for wood boats but has gotten very expensive. you might try fir as a compromise.

[Bergovoy]

hard woods split easy.. if you are using thin pieces, you may want to stay away from them... or beef them up to at least 1-1/2 " material or thicker...

douglas fir is good.. it is soft, and can be treated or not... and is easy to cut and no need to predrill on most sized fasteners...

good luck


bill

[CharlieCobra]

Doug fir, Black locust...

[s/v Jedi]

I would laminate some layers of marine 3-ply in place so that you automatically get the right shape. Put plastic sheet behind it so that you can remove it again. When cured, shape it then sand and coat with epoxy twice after drilling the holes for fasteners (so that epoxy saturates wood in/around the holes).

cheers,
Nick.

[Shoalcove]

You don't say how big a project you are doing or where the pieces will be (ie. above the waterline or below). It's hard to say for sure, but if the pieces will be in an area that is normally dry I would go to Home Depot or such and pick through their pile of 2x4's for some clear stock with straight grain. It's likely to be spruce, fir or douglas fir depending on where you live. All will take a fastener and if you coat the pieces with epoxy or paint them they will hold up very well. The 2x4's are cheap and it's easy to hold shorter pieces against the hull to scribe to fit. If you are doing a major job you will probably want to got to a specialty yard to get more consistant quality than picking through the pile. Black locust is pretty hard stuff but it will probably outlast the fiberglass! Good luck!!

[FraidNot]

thanks guys - excellent advice - appreciated.
Job is relatively small and won't get wet.
I think I'll do the cheap off-cut idea with lots of epoxy.

[Wand]

Originally Posted by FraidNot

thanks guys - excellent advice - appreciated.
Job is relatively small and won't get wet.
I think I'll do the cheap off-cut idea with lots of epoxy.

Ply is best; it won't split and you can get a scrap bit for free anywhere. Then just a lick of good primer paint will be enough rather than epoxy resin. KISS.