Best Way to Tent for Repairs

[SV Siren]

BC,

The enclosure works extremely well, not a drop gets in, and I will suggest that you use white shrink wrap, and not the blue...the blue throws off your eyesight and does not let much light through. We have access doors at the bow and stern, for cross ventilation, as well as standard venting that is

I would probably not slot the pipe but more build a c shaped frame base, where the open part of the "C" faces down, out of 1x or scrap 2x, builders have these laying around every home build site, and they will give them away. Make certain it is very securely fastened under the hull, the forces can be quite high unless the boat will be sheltered. I added extra stands, as well as hurricane type straps to the ground just for extra measure..never hurts to be sorry. My sidewalls are 4', and the tallest the canopy gets is 9' at the tallest, with a 12' beam if that helps. I used 2" Sch. 40 pipe for the rigidity, and about 80 elbows...it also makes for a great greenhouse in the winter/spring.

Thanks,

Scott

PM me if you have any questions.

[Pelagic]

Originally Posted by BlueChicago

I will be working on removing the teak deck this winter (as in Chicago winter).
-BC

Since you have major deck work, you need to keep the deck free and protected right to edge..

Also you are dealing with winter storms, so adding top weight on board is risky.

The most secure way.... is to build a scaffold frame around the boat from ground up, padded and firm against your rub real with tent shaped scaffold cross members for your cover, so you can stand on deck .

For covers, I would make overlapping tarps that can be lashed to the cross members, allowing you to remove sections or All if needed, (major storm)(summer season)
That way, you can also replace the mast when ready.

It is a false economy to build a semipermanent tarp on top of the boat, with bits of wood, that if it failed, could undo all your good work and damage topsides

[antoha]

Fairclough (based in CT) do boat covers around here. If you have a reasonably typical boat, they may have the plans and not have to even measure yours. They use fabric and 1” conduit (EMT), plus proprietary connectors they will gladly sell you if you DIY ($30 a pair, as of this year). They are great, everyone here uses them. I have tried pvc pipe and it would always collapse under snow.
So even if you don’t go with them, google their product and see what they do, for inspiration if nothing else. I wish I used them to start with but instead went with the “other guys” who gave a lifetime warranty for all repairs and alterations (Fairclough are doers, not businessmen, so they honestly tell you they can’t do that and stay in business, and that on average their fabric lasts 10-15 years and then they can make you a new one and reuse the frame, and charge you labor and materials only).
They are pricey though.

[GordMay]

... The most secure way.... is to build a scaffold frame around the boat from ground up ...

Indeed.
Except, his yard doesn’t allow anything to “touch the ground”.

[thinwater]

Do remember the minimum curing temperatures for bedding agents (you can heat during the day but not at night, so it is nightly temperatures that matter). Also, that polyurethanes don't cure in a heated winter environment--it is too dry. The point is, working during a Chicago winter is probably not going to work well with any tent. No need to be inside or wait until summer.

I see a lot of "professional" work done below minimum temperatures. It's sad.

[Pelagic]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Indeed.
Except, his yard doesn’t allow anything to “touch the ground”.

Hi Gord, thought he meant garbage, materials etc....

Very strange.....Never heard of a yard that did not allow scaffolding around a boat to facilitate the works! ..... Guess it is just a dry storage facility

[BlueChicago]

Originally Posted by Pelagic

Hi Gord, thought he meant garbage, materials etc....

Very strange.....Never heard of a yard that did not allow scaffolding around a boat to facilitate the works! ..... Guess it is just a dry storage facility

Actually, I did mean that they don't want any of my waste, chemicals, etc. to hit the ground. They seem to have respect for the lake, at least that is the way all the signs read.

My apologies if I was confusing.

-BC

[BlueChicago]

I am getting a quote from the yard to shrink wrap the boat for the winter in such a way that allows me to work inside. They will include a "door" that allows for repeated access.

I'm not sure if a white translucent plastic will allow the boat to warm up as much from the sun, but it might be worth the convenience, depending on the price.

-BC

[Pelagic]

Thanks for clarifying BC

You will find a standalone scaffold to be ultimately more versatile for eventual hull work, structurally stronger and it does not compromise the edges and bulwarks where you will be detailing..
it also facilitates a much easier ramp access for heavy equipment and tired legs.

Also as you mentioned 2 seasons, shrink wrap can become a boiler house in the summer. Choose something that can be vented and easily removed/replaced in sections.

Drying out the deck over time, is more about controlling the humidity rather than heat

[BlueChicago]

As a follow up, I have a few questions on the white shrink wrap.

How brittle is it to a puncture and does a rip in it run quickly?
How UV stabilized is it - can it last for two or three years in the sun?
How stable and aggressive is the tape that is used with it? Can this tape hold on without the adhesive slowly sliding when under stress - for a few years?

Thanks

-BC

[deblen]

Dr.Shrink was an early supplier of boat shrink wrapping. Perhaps the company can answer your questions about multi year use. / Len

https://www.youtube.com/user/drshrinkmarketing/videos

[SV Siren]

BC-

The shrink wrap I have put on, from Dr. Shrink has held up for one year, under a bunch of trees, and I hope to get 3 years out of it. I have had falling branches, and my own power tools poke holes in it, and it hasn't torn. The materiel just stretched, and got a small hole. We used their tape to "fix" the small holes from the inside, the tape is very aggressive about holding on to the plastic, and we have not had any leaks from repairs. We used a 7 mil white shrink wrap.

Scott