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12-08-2008, 04:33
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#1
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Senior Cruiser
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Chesapeake Bay
Boat: Sabre 28-2
Posts: 3,197
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Best Value for Interior Paint
I am just doing some touch-up now, but want to start with the right paint on the interior. What's the best value for good mold-resistent (enamel?) ? Does it have to be "marine" paint or is there something more general out there that does a good job? Just a standard, no frills white is what I'm looking for.
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12-08-2008, 04:47
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: North Wisconsin
Boat: Liberty 28 Custom Cutter - "Native Dancer" For Sale
Posts: 209
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I've just been doing some interior floor work mwith Rustoleum enamel. Looks good and is a durable at about 25% the cost of the "marine" paints.
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12-08-2008, 04:51
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Boat: 1973 Morgan 36T
Posts: 808
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12-08-2008, 05:06
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#4
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CF Adviser Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Virginia
Boat: Island Packet 380, now sold
Posts: 8,942
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We've used the Zinser product that Morgan recommends. Not on the boat, but in bathrooms. It is very good.
__________________
Hud
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12-08-2008, 06:30
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#5
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Eternal Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Las Brisas Panama AGAIN!
Boat: Simpson, Catamaran, 46ft. IMAGINE
Posts: 4,507
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You can always add mold inhibitor to your paints from the local hardware.
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12-08-2008, 06:41
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Solomons, MD USA
Boat: Formosa 51 Aft Cockpit Ketch - "Beausoleil"
Posts: 611
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When sprucing up the interior of Beausoleil, we used good old enamel porch & deck paint - grey for the bilges, bright white for the interior of lockers and such. We still went with a marine one-part for overhead panels (West Marine's equivalent to Pettit's EasyPoxy). For a marine paint at WM, it was a lot cheaper at $23/qt than the Pettit. But a heck of a lot more expensive than the porch & deck paint (~$23/gal).
We did make the mistake of using high-gloss latex kitchen/bath paint in a couple of lockers at first, but you need to let it dry for at least a week before you put anything in there, else you'll have paint sticking to it. We only waited 48 hours...
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12-08-2008, 07:42
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cat in New Zealand, trawler in Ventura
Boat: 46' custom cat "Rum Doxy", Roughwater 41"Abreojos"
Posts: 2,041
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Imagine2frolic,
Your avatar looks different. Have you done something with your hair?
Mike
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12-08-2008, 07:44
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cat in New Zealand, trawler in Ventura
Boat: 46' custom cat "Rum Doxy", Roughwater 41"Abreojos"
Posts: 2,041
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I have used bathroom enamel on previous boats with good results. I plan to do the same on my rebuild and add mold inhibitor as Imagine suggests.
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12-08-2008, 08:14
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Boat: Grand Banks 42 Classic - Heads Up
Posts: 109
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I just painted the V Berth in my boat and I used a commercial enamel sold at the "pro's" paint store not Home Depot. It is a satin finish and the can said no thinning so I applied it as they said. When it dried I noticed it is very fragile and scratches easily. I am not that happy with it and have decided to sand it and go over it with real marine paint. I have Interlux Toplac which I had purchased for my hull and never used. I just need to get a flattening agent for the semi-gloss look I prefer. I also have tributaltin which kills mold and will add that as well.
I am sad at the fact I had just installed new teak trim and had it varnished and looking great. Now there will be a tape line where the wood/paint joins and I was hoping not to have that.
__________________
Captain Head
1966 Grand Banks 42 Hull #17
Twin Ford Lehman Diesels
Sterling LP over Epoxy
Life is Great, Skip the Beach
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12-08-2008, 08:23
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Houston TX
Boat: Pacific Seacraft 25 "Turtle"
Posts: 364
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Glidden Porch and Floor.......
I've been using this stuff for years both inside and as deck paint. It's mostly indestructable. You can have it tinted almost any colour you might like and can if required add Kilz or some other anti mildew. Over 2 years and counting on this deck and it still looks great. My deck colour is "Champagne Sparkle". How or why that name but it is what it is. Linear polyurethane is linear polyurethane no matter what the "marine" sellers say.......m
__________________
I must go down to the sea again.........
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12-08-2008, 09:14
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Boat: Grand Banks 42 Classic - Heads Up
Posts: 109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cantxsailor
Linear polyurethane is linear polyurethane no matter what the "marine" sellers say.......m
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Glidden Porch & Floor Polyurethane Oil Gloss
sorry to say, but it isn't LP it is just Polyurethane, a one part paint like britesides.
LP is catalized.
__________________
Captain Head
1966 Grand Banks 42 Hull #17
Twin Ford Lehman Diesels
Sterling LP over Epoxy
Life is Great, Skip the Beach
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12-08-2008, 11:06
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Houston TX
Boat: Pacific Seacraft 25 "Turtle"
Posts: 364
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My goof NON linear polyurethane then(maybe) but yes the same as Brightsides....
except for the price. Home Despot about $20.00gal. tinted any pretty much any colour you want vs limited colours in Brightside at $27qt. All the commercial fishermen I know use it though that in its self may not be a plus judging by the condition of some of their boats. As I said I've had this on the decks of this boat for over 2 yrs and it still looks good. I've been using it all told for about ten years and have no complaints with its durability(decks) or its washability(decks and inside cabinettes, on over head). It is pretty fade resistant in the lighter colours as is most paint. I put 6 coats on my deck after I pulled all the teak(ruined before I got her) off and filled all 297 screw holes. 3 coats of white straight from the can and 3 more of the tinted over the Black Diamond bead blast media($11/55lbs) I used for non skid. None has come up so far and I haven't found any cracks or other signs of shrinkage. It (Black Diamond) is a bit agressive but I don't slip around at all. You would leave skin if you did fall though I think.........m
__________________
I must go down to the sea again.........
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12-08-2008, 12:34
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Boat: Grand Banks 42 Classic - Heads Up
Posts: 109
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The paint I bought was an Alkalid Poly too but it took a long time to get totally dry. It is harder now but I have scratches where I scraped the side wall putting my boards in that go under the mattress. I did brush the peeling paint off the scratch and it looks ok for now. I agree with you that the good quality enamels like yours work quite well on boats.
I would like to ask a chemist if there is any difference or if it is simply marketing, which I think it is.
__________________
Captain Head
1966 Grand Banks 42 Hull #17
Twin Ford Lehman Diesels
Sterling LP over Epoxy
Life is Great, Skip the Beach
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10-11-2011, 09:23
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Southeast
Boat: Tartan 27, #534
Posts: 5
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Re: Best value for interior paint
Has anyone had experience applying epoxy based paint in the cabin? It was an ordeal sanding 37 years worth of paint off every surface in my boat cabin. I never want to have to sand and repaint again. I'm less worried about cost, and mostly want a durable, washable finish. Only problem is, the topsides and cabin top do flex a little. What do y'all think? Should I go with a hard epoxy paint, or 'softer' paint?
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10-11-2011, 09:37
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Skagit City, WA
Posts: 25,453
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Re: Best Value for Interior Paint
Good quality Porch/floor enamel (not latex) is good. ($35/gal etc) I have used Rustoleum also. I feel these products are at least as good for adhesion as Brightsides etc. I've never found anything called "epoxy" to be all that great. It was allthe rage to call various paints that years ago....
__________________
"I spent most of my money on Booze, Broads and Boats. The rest I wasted" - Elmore Leonard
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