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Old 25-08-2009, 21:35   #16
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Originally Posted by redcobra View Post
Use an electric drill with a level on the back to keep the hole plumb.
Reading that was one of those moments you lean back slap your forhead and wonder why you didn't think of that yourself.

A drill guide might also help: Customer Reviews for Portable Drill Guide
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Old 25-08-2009, 21:48   #17
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Sometimes the stanchions are not plumb, they are at right angles to the shear plank or deck line. In this case a simple jig made of bits of wood works best.
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Old 26-08-2009, 00:00   #18
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It is very difficult to enlarge a perfectly round hole with a dremel or roto zip, especially if you have to enlarge several holes. No big deal if the holes are covered by a collar I suppose, and those tools are least likely to cause splinters. I've successfully used a hole saw freehand by letting one side dig in first then rocking it perpendicular to the wood. A much more reliable method is to make a guide block as previously described. If you can't go all the way through, forget the hole saw. The guide drill extends beyond the barrel. Use a router, bushing, and guide block, a forstner bit and guide block or I suppose you could cut a stepped bit. Just be sure to firmly clamp your guide block if using a drill and go slowly when you first enter the teak.

Brett
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Old 26-08-2009, 04:13   #19
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A couple of commercial products:

The “CoPilot” hole saw guide allows you to enlarge holes in one easy cut that is perfectly centred every time. The “CoPilot” is a universal design that fits all brands of threaded hole saws and threaded arbors. It replaces the pilot drill bit in your hole saw assembly.
CoPilot
http://www.centurydrill.com/1/pdf/Ho...ws/CoPilot.pdf

Hole Saw Alignment Guides
http://www.tricitylock.com/
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Old 26-08-2009, 05:34   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GordMay View Post
A couple of commercial products:

The “CoPilot” hole saw guide allows you to enlarge holes in one easy cut that is perfectly centred every time. The “CoPilot” is a universal design that fits all brands of threaded hole saws and threaded arbors. It replaces the pilot drill bit in your hole saw assembly.
CoPilot
http://www.centurydrill.com/1/pdf/Ho...ws/CoPilot.pdf

Hole Saw Alignment Guides
http://www.tricitylock.com/

These are clever adaptors that will work in most cases. But a hole saw is still a rough cutting tool, not for finer detailed work. The saw blades themselves just don't have the clean cutting abilities that a Forstner bit or a proerly set up router would. But I really do like the co-pilot for many other applications.
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