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Old 05-08-2010, 08:18   #1
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Best Material for Chainplates ?

I have resently been disabused of the notion that 316 stainless is the best. I am leaning toward silicon bronze (655) or titanium to replace my 30-year-old plates. They both have the merit of being more corrosion resistant.

If anyone has an idea for a good source of flat bar for either, let me know. Note: online metals doesn't carry flat bar for either.
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Old 06-08-2010, 06:22   #2
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I have resently been disabused of the notion that 316 stainless is the best. I am leaning toward silicon bronze (655) or titanium to replace my 30-year-old plates. They both have the merit of being more corrosion resistant.

If anyone has an idea for a good source of flat bar for either, let me know. Note: online metals doesn't carry flat bar for either.
Well, actually if you are thinking creatively, integral carbon chainplates are best - will never leak or corode.

316SS is pretty good, but yes Silicon Bronze (C655) is ultimately more corrosion resistant and roughly the same tensile and yield strength. There are several different grades of Titatium with quite different properties. Grade 2 has tensile and yield of about 50,000psi (about 40% less than 316ss) while grade 5 is about 130,000psi.

The silicon bronze is easier to work than the titanium, and is the 'normal' choice . . . but I suppose grade 5 titanum would be the 'ultimate option'.

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Titanium Bar Stock: Commercially Pure and 6AL-4V
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:53   #3
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Well, actually if you are thinking creatively, integral carbon chainplates are best - will never leak or corode.

316SS is pretty good, but yes Silicon Bronze (C655) is ultimately more corrosion resistant and roughly the same tensile and yield strength. There are several different grades of Titatium with quite different properties. Grade 2 has tensile and yield of about 50,000psi (about 40% less than 316ss) while grade 5 is about 130,000psi.

The silicon bronze is easier to work than the titanium, and is the 'normal' choice . . . but I suppose grade 5 titanum would be the 'ultimate option'.

Atlas Metal Sales

Titanium Bar Stock: Commercially Pure and 6AL-4V
Thanks. I should have specified that I was eyeing Grade 5 titanium. With the ease in being able to work it, silicon bronze seems the better choice though
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:04   #4
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What's wrong with another 30 year go-around with 316ss? Will you or the boat outlast the 316?
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:11   #5
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I know what you're sailing, sailmonkey, as I have made precisely those kinds of calculations in the past (deciding to go with balsa sted divincell on a deck re-core, for example). But in this case, the silicon bronze is better, easier and (I think ...) cheaper.
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:46   #6
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i plan on pulling the massive s.s. chainplates on my rig and building my onw fiberglass epoxy chainplates, then glass and bolt them onto the hull and never worry about corrosion there ever again... i should get to it in the next few months, ill be sure to start a thread, but it seems the logical alternative to me
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:01   #7
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I recently removed, inspected and polished each of my twelve 316SS 37 year old chainplates.



I did find one with a hairline crack that I replaced, but all the others passed a full scrutinity with a penetrating dye and microscopic scan. I'm ready for many more years. Take care and joy, Aythya crew
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Old 06-08-2010, 16:39   #8
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Don't forget if you are using stainless steel standing rigging and terminals/turnbuckles and attached them to silicon bronze chain plates you are setting up a electrolysis system where the two different metals contact. Just a consideration. . .
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Old 06-08-2010, 19:34   #9
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I need new close up glasses.

I thought this thread was "Best Material for Cheapskates'>>..
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Old 06-08-2010, 20:07   #10
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I recently removed, inspected and polished each of my twelve 316SS 37 year old chainplates.



I did find one with a hairline crack that I replaced, but all the others passed a full scrutinity with a penetrating dye and microscopic scan. I'm ready for many more years. Take care and joy, Aythya crew
I envy the ease at which you can access your chain plates cap....That is one of the things where I think Irwin could have done way better...mine are totally glass encapsulated into the hull.....I will probably hire an x ray service one of these days to look at them all.
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Old 06-08-2010, 21:08   #11
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Titanium is great and expensive but take a look at Aluminum silicon bronze. Very strong an very expensive. Also look at 17-4 PH. It is a stainless steel has a tensil strength of somewhere around 140,000 ksi. I use it for any SS replacements on my boat. The only thing they say to watch for is stagnant seawater. As we are sailing in the ocean, stagnation should be at a minimum. There are also other SS's that have a higher molydebnium(sp) content.(upwards of 6% to 9% molybd) They are more corrosion resistant also. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-08-2010, 21:36   #12
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Regarding carbon fiber for chain plates....what is the standard means of adhering them as a retrofit to the hull?

And what size would be required to replace a 1/2" x 3" SS one.
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Old 06-08-2010, 22:29   #13
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Gee's, why not just go Inconel or Hastelloy if you want corrosion resistance.

And as for 316, there are different grades as with the stuff above.

I think If I had internal chain plates I would just go with some carbon fiber like what they use on the new Boeing 747-8. since were getting into the hi-tech stuff here.
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Old 06-08-2010, 23:23   #14
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Extreme electrolysis between carbon and some metals.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:24   #15
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Extreme electrolysis between carbon and some metals.
Can you expound on that Daddle...Would SS toggle pins be one of those?...Delmary is a Machinist and seems to think it would be a good idea.

This seems like it would be a huge job though...Im thinking the attachment area for the main spreaders would have to incorporate a fair sized area of the hull like 9 square feet or so....That would be a huge are of internal deconstruction to access on my and most other boats.
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