Bay Area Wood Works.-Bowsprit

[MarkSF]

It could also be epoxy with the red West System fairing compound added.

[northoceanbeach]

It is definitely brittle. Something they added for strength to hold the bolts. It's making me wonder about how I am going to reset the new bolts. I don't think im going to embed them in the plank like these. I'm thinking just go with what I know which is bob fender washers on the top of the plank and underneath. Underneath that's already what they have. I'm sure this is for aesthetics to set the bolts down in the wood and keep them out of sight.

Preliminarily it appears it should come off easy. The sealant beneath the plank I have exposed is not a 5200 sort of permanent glue but more of a spongy sealant to help the plank not crush into the gelcoat and seal out moisture. What would you recommend as the new bedding compound?

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by northoceanbeach

I got a mahogany plank that's the same thickness and is being cut to width and length.

I have a small bow roller with a chain pin to hold the anchor in place that I am going to place off to starboard.

As I dig out the bungs to reveal the six bolts holding the plank to the deck, there aren't washers in there, but this hard red stuff around the bolts. Anyone know what this is?

Id ask Cape Dory. It could be old 5200 mahogany colored. It was pretty reddish.

[ssanzone]

You can call Joe DiMaio (510) 828-3168. he is in Oakland and is a master woodsmith who has done some work for me in the past and is currently re-sawing some teak and white maple for my new sole.

He is honest and fair and I have always been happy with the results.

You are welcome to tell him that you got his name from Steve Sanzone if he asks.

While I would use teak or mahogany based on $$, you could also vacuum bag (or use foam core) balsa and resin for a core which is skinned in whatever wood you prefer. that would be a lot lighter and stronger and still aesthetically pleasing


gl.

-steve

[delmarrey]

One thing I would recommend is sealing the holes you put in the wood. Drill them with about 1/64" clearance and seal the holes with thinned epoxy so that it soaks into the wood. Then recoat the holes again with regular epoxy.

This way if any rain water/fresh water gets into the holes it will not start the rot process, providing you seal the surfaces of the wood with whatever you choose.

[northoceanbeach]

Thanks. Since I have what looks like a good metal backing plate in the bow, sealing the holes should be extremely high on my list of priorities. I've read and seen pictures of people replacing that and it makes replacing a bowsprit look like swapping halyard shackles!(or something easy and minor )