Barrier Cover Over Keel Repair

[lateral]

Pretty hard to dispute proof-of -service but I am leery of all thinned modified epoxy barrier coats. They actually are more expensive than 100% solids west epoxy.
I resent paying for thinners & marketing. If you going to paint over, UV is irrelevant.
I would like to see a documented test of an interlux interprotect permeability test Vs 100% epoxy.
West (or any 100%) is not easy to apply, as a flow coat on an inverted boat.IMHO, thinner evaporation is just a ingress path for moisture vapour. ( And has been proven so by west.) That said, interprotect is a joy to apply.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by minaret

If you think epoxy is a sufficient barrier coat, why didn't you just tell him to bottompaint it and be done with it? How does more of the same product help? Personally I barrier coat every repair I do below the waterline, even on boats with no barrier coat. I have never had to do warranty work on a fiberglass repair, and I've done many thousands of them. Good barrier coating is one reason.

You do realize that InterProtect 2000 is epoxy too, right?

cheers,
Nick.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by minaret

Nice! That's a much better pic. While I'm sure it's fine for your needs, I'm not sure too many people are trying to emulate that. It's certainly not what I'd call a pro finish. There's no hangers or drips because it's all one big roller stipple. I would not send out a bottom like that. Heres a pic of race bottom finished in our yard. And a pic of 2000 being applied. Compare.

LOL.... first I must have thinned it...
now my 1st coat of black is one big roller stipple...
should say... fine sanding after each coat worked wonders.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by boatman61

LOL.... first I must have thinned it...
now my 1st coat of black is one big roller stipple...
should say... fine sanding after each coat worked wonders.

Hey boatman... Is that you rolling your cigarette? And your avatar is doing that too? But you're not from Holland, right?

cheers,
Nick.

[Matt Johnson]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Hey boatman... Is that you rolling your cigarette? And your avatar is doing that too? But you're not from Holland, right?

cheers,
Nick.

I was wondering if that was a cigarette (tobacco) or something else...

[Me-and-Boo]

Here is the picture of the Catalina Smile post glass work and with fairing compound.


You can see the Catalina Smile repair.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Me-and-Boo

Here is the picture of the Catalina Smile post glass work and with fairing compound.


You can see the Catalina Smile repair.

Easy one. Looks like it already has a 2000 bottom. Fair it out, then sand the bottom paint off for a foot or so around the repair. Coat with 4-6 coats of 2000, starting with just the repair and then taking each succesive coat out a couple of inches further on to the existing barrier coat. Do not put barrier coat over bottom paint, only coat onto the existing barrier coat. Coat carefully with a candy striper. Chemical bond two coats of bottom paint to the last coat of 2000, and you're good to go.

[boatman61]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Hey boatman... Is that you rolling your cigarette? And your avatar is doing that too? But you're not from Holland, right?

cheers,
Nick.

Hey Nick... one does not have to be Dutch to enjoy a good Shag mate....
And I was 25+ years younger...

[SabreKai]

I've done several re-fairing jobs on cast steel keels, using west system and sawdust, with micro balloons. The stuff sticks like crazy, and when it was finish sanded to contour I used Interlux 2000. 4 coats of it, and I never had a problem with it again. I've also removed a few through hull fittings, beveled the hole and filled it with cloth and west system. Again, when that was done, it got painted over with Interlux 2000.

I now have a steel boat and was about to use the Interlux on it, but one of the club members who also has a steel boat laughed at me and recommended Amerlock 400. Stuff is tough as nails, and will cure at temps as 0C

Here's the PDF for it. Since I'm working on my boat in the dead of winter, I'll be using the Amerlock.

http://ppgamercoatus.ppgpmc.com/prod...400_PDS_AI.pdf

[levante]

Glad to find a current thread on Bottom Jobs.. I was looking at Amerlock as well but to use as a barrier coat on my 37 Alberg (not steel). The product advertises that it will adhere to painted or primed surfaces. I've been 5 days grinding and sanding away at the bottom. Today I resorted to chemical stripper (Airplane Fiberglass stripper) worked very well even though it was a windy day. The last layer before the Gel Coat is nearly #!@& impossible to get thru though. 36 grit on A porter cable 6inch sander barely abrades it. The paint stripper does not work on it either. I'm too close to the gel coat to hit it with the grinder. I know it's not recommended but can I barrier coat onto that old illegal tinned bottom paint from the 70's or it could be the barrior coatings they were useing in the 80's Has anyone come across this stuff before ? It's not like any other bottom paint I've ever sanded.. Running out of time in the work yard. Any Advice ? I'd prefer to use 2000 e as I've had great results with it on other projects but Interlux is very clear about it not adhering to paint. I also thought about hitting it with a thin coat of west systems then hot coating on the Interlux..