Awlwood or Awlbright/Awlspar for teak

[CarlF]

I’m going to strip the Epifanes from some teak cockpit tables and thought I’d try something new. I’d like something that is more “repairable ” and tougher than regular varnish - since tables get a lot of abuse.

I don’t want to go to epoxy.

I’m leaning towards AwlWood MA. How does it compare to awlspar/awlbrite for this application? I have a friend with AwlWood and it’s held up great.

The cost isn’t really an issue as the area is small. I want it to go on without problems and not need fresh coats every year.

Any application tips?

[coopec43]

How To: Choose the Best Varnish for Your Boat

https://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/m...-for-your-boat


Decisions decisions

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ns-162986.html

[boatbroke]

Hi CarlF,

AWLWood has a much harder finish as it is a single pack urethane.

Good build up application, great longevity even in full sun.

Much better suited for a hi knock environment.

I personally wont use anything else.

Good luck!

[badadim]

Originally Posted by boatbroke

Hi CarlF,

AWLWood has a much harder finish as it is a single pack urethane.

Good build up application, great longevity even in full sun.

Much better suited for a hi knock environment.

I personally wont use anything else.

Good luck!

From J3005/J3006 TDS:



"Awlbrite Clear is a buffable, high build, three component clear urethane used as topcoat for the Ultimate Brightwork System. Awlbrite Clear provides a far more durable finish than varnish alone, is faster curing and as easy to apply. Do not use below the waterline. Do not apply Awlbrite Clear directly to bare wood"


I contacted Awlgrip rep asking if they have anything from the field/lab on durability and longevity Awlwood vs Awlbrite but received no meaningful answer.


Anybody here having real-life feedback, pictures, stories to share about Awlwood vs Awlbrite?

[bstreep]

I won’t use anything but Awlwood above deck again.

[badadim]

some more info came from awlgrip rep:


Awlbrite is applied over traditional one-pack varnish. Therefore the weakest link in that system is the varnish.

Awlwood is a stand-alone system, applied to bare wood.

Both systems can be buffed, repaired, recoated.

All elements being equal, Awlwood may be a longer lasting and more flexible solution.

[rls8r]

I haven't used Awlbright or Awlspar, so I can't give any comparison between those and Awlwood. However, I am now using Awlwood. I have a fair amount of teak - and in the past I've used Bristol, HoneyTeak, Epiphanes, and several other 'standard' varnishes for my outside brightwork. I've been disappointed in all of them - for one reason or another.

I currently use AwlWood and like bstreep it's beginning to look like I won't use anything else on the outside brightwork. It's easy to apply in a wide variety of temp/humidity conditions. It lays down and flattens out nicely. It holds up to UV - I have some hatch covers that I haven't touched in two years and they look (almost) like I finished them yesterday.

The application directions are straightforward - so follow them. If you're applying it to anything that can stain (e.g., gelcoat, etc.) - note that the red or yellow primer will stain whatever it touches and will soak through paper-backed painter's tape, so use plastic tape (e.g., polyester-backed). No need to be fancy with the primer - apply with a rag or a cheap brush - and you need only one coat (too bad I can only find it in quarts). Apply multiple topcoats as soon as the previous one 'tacks.' For me, where I live, that's usually in about 3 hours (or so) - so I can get as many as four topcoats on in a day. I usually put eight topcoats on the outside brightwork. If you want a 'mirror' shine and simply letting the AwlWood flatten doesn't do it for you - use 3M polishing compound. I use 3M buffing and polishing compound with my 8" buffer - using the appropriate foam pad - they're color-coded. I suppose you could use the 3M Perfect-It, but I haven't tried that so I can't give advice regarding that.

I'm right behind you. I'm currently making a cockpit table out of Padauk (since I couldn't find an acceptable piece of red zebrawood or Peruvian walnut) and I plan to finish it with AwlWood.

[rls8r]

badadim wanted pictures ... so here's a picture of some of my brightwork with AwlWood on it. Doesn't look too bad. This was taken a couple of years ago (excuse the disarray on deck - doing some maintenance at the time - you can see that there's still blue tape on the deck at the outside right/rear cockpit coaming) - and the brightwork doesn't look too much different today - even after minimal upkeep. I usually just wipe it down with a Scotchbrite pad and give it a single topcoat 'refresher' in the spring. I haven't done that for the lazarette cover - just to see how the AwlWood stands up - and you can barely tell the difference between it and the 'refreshed' wood.

[bstreep]

Just to comment further on my preference for Awlwood. Previously, my product of choice was Perfection. It holds up very, very well. But it doesn’t do maintenance well, and it’s difficult to apply.

I did several items to try Awlwood out 5 years ago, including an old wooden boat hook that lives on deck 24/7/365. It gets used and banged around. It just recently started peeling. Please note that for it, I purposely did zero maintenance to it. 5 years in the South Texas sun is a pretty good endorsement, I think.

My only gripe is the cost, and that I end up throwing away most of the primer.

BTW, below deck I’ve quit using anything but Daley Profin. Fabulous stuff, and easy to maintain. And even the gloss isn’t slippery when wet.