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Old 09-03-2014, 07:21   #1
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Awlwood by Awlgrip Interlux Anyone use it?

Does anyone use Awlwood by Interlux on their teak? Product has just been released in US, but has been available in OZ. If so, how did it hold up and how was the ease of application? I have some to try and would like to strip the wood and apply, but wanted some info from anyone who may have used or tried it. Jamestown Dist. sells it.

AwlGrip Awlwood MA Clear Gloss

Thanks.....
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Old 09-02-2016, 11:39   #2
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Re: Awlwood by Awlgrip Interlux Anyone use it?

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Originally Posted by D.D. View Post
Does anyone use Awlwood by Interlux on their teak? Product has just been released in US, but has been available in OZ. If so, how did it hold up and how was the ease of application? I have some to try and would like to strip the wood and apply, but wanted some info from anyone who may have used or tried it. Jamestown Dist. sells it.

AwlGrip Awlwood MA Clear Gloss

Thanks.....
Poke

No answers so far. Has anyone used Awlwood? Does it last longer than varnish? Is the application easier?

Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2016, 11:50   #3
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Re: Awlwood by Awlgrip Interlux Anyone use it?

I haven't. But I'll still answer. (Ahh, the internet! )

I use Bristol Finish, a clear 2-part poly on the teak sidewalls of my cabin trunk. Its applied over a base coat of Smith's CPES (which might actually be junk, but at least in this application all the thinners are able to flash off.)

A guy with the same type of boat as me, in the same climate, with the same storage technique (under a tent all winter long) claimed that if I stripped the teak, applied CPES, then applied 6 coats of bristol finish, I'd have 5 years of trouble free service, at which point I should scuff it up and add a couple new coats of bristol finish. I'm 3 winters and 2 summers into it and so far so good.

(Except for the one spot where I screwed up and let water get under the wood, and now I've got a real pain in the ass on my hands there.)

If this is a similar system, I'd think you'd have similar results. I think when it comes to sealing wood off like that, you had better get it completely right, because if water gets in there, your super strong, durable coating will go from asset to liability.

Varnish is easy to remove. A small dose of heat and a sharp scraper and its history. These poly finishes? Much more difficult. Much slower work.
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:11   #4
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Re: Awlwood by Awlgrip Interlux Anyone use it?


This may be of interest to you.
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:31   #5
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Re: Awlwood by Awlgrip Interlux Anyone use it?

actually both AwlGrip and Interlux are Akzo Nobel. Looks, from this review, that like AwlGrip paints, prep is key

"Comments about Awlgrip Awlwood MA Clear Gloss:
Don'ts:
Use alcohol in prepping -poisons the material
Use oxalic acid to bleach the wood -poisons the material
Apply under very low humid conditions-will impede dry times i.e. never dry
Use good quality brushes -brushes can not be cleaned and will be 'throw-away'
Use any containers that are solvent sensitive -if in doubt use tall glass or tall metal containers. wide flat containers will shorten pot life.
Don't "worry" material by continual brush strokes, apply and tip off

Do's:
Apply only on stripped bare teak, mahogany etc.
Rag on primer, one cannot get even application w a brush of any type. I used a sock on three fingers over a nitrile glove
Tape tightly to teak for prime coat and retape with small border beyond teak for gloss coats, otherwise primer color is visible on gelcoat
Yellow primer typical for Teak, red for Mahogany. Primer really adds contrast and wood grain contrast.
Read product datasheets carefully and follow

Great:
Depth of Image (DOI) is amazing
Was able to do six complete coats in two days on hot humid days on the Chesapeake. Sanding after prime and coat three.
Clear gloss is clear! with no hue or tint thus tinted primer gives hue
Used foam brushes "not for use for w shellac and lacquer" they swelled after 20 min. and I just tossed it and used another. Ideally one should use solvent resistant foam brushes.

If this product becomes known, the pro varnish 'gurus' commanding big money should be very worried.

See photo of morning dew on Awlwood after day 1 (three coats)
Very tolerant of changing environmental conditions.
Post cure the material is very stretchy so believe that with primer it will really stick to scarf joints and not fail from wood side due to expansion.
BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend"
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Old 09-02-2016, 13:32   #6
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Re: Awlwood by Awlgrip Interlux Anyone use it?

$75 per quart for the primer and varnish! Ouch!
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Old 09-02-2016, 13:42   #7
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Re: Awlwood by Awlgrip Interlux Anyone use it?

Make sure to pull tape before it cures, this stuff will penetrate regular masking and bond it down if left to cure. Looks great, can't speak to longevity yet.
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Old 19-11-2016, 14:09   #8
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Re: Awlwood by Awlgrip Interlux Anyone use it?

Any follow up on this yet minaret?
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Old 19-11-2016, 18:29   #9
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Re: Awlwood by Awlgrip Interlux Anyone use it?

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Originally Posted by SailRedemption View Post
Any follow up on this yet minaret?



Just did a third boat in it this fall. Actually, I wooded it out real nice and the client applied the coatings. Looks great, I did finish beauty beads and the like after she was done coating. So far all boats I've done in Awlwood look great, two years in now. I'd expect to form a better opinion by the end of next summer, that'll be three years on the first one I did. They did change the formulation based on feedback from my friend, who owns a major brightwork outfit. It's been working out great for me. I think it's a little dark, even with the clear primer as opposed to the yellow or red. But I think that's a function of the degree of penetration. So far I like it.Perhaps I'll post pics of the last one, I doubt she'll mind.
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Old 19-11-2016, 22:27   #10
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Re: Awlwood by Awlgrip Interlux Anyone use it?

Great, thanks! We don't have much bright work on Redemption, just the cockpit coaming. It's a very light teak relatively. When I had the boat painted they applied a cost of Schooner to seal the wood (see pictures). It's long gone now and flaked off, it was temporary, so I'll strip it back to fresh wood. I was going to go with the yellow primer because it has a better UV protection from what I have read in the product papers. Do you think that would be a good choice of primer?

Also, do I need to wash/clean the wood with a TSP/bleach solution before the primer? Any trade tips? My family owned a marina so I have done paint and such before, so most methods are not foreign to me. Click image for larger version

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