Awlgrip, Gelcoat, or Epoxy

[ontherocks83]

Thanks everybody, there is some great info so far! I think I am leaning towards the interlux perfection.

I'm not sure if I'm mistaken but if I do a repair with a West system glass and epoxy, is it true that polyurethane products like interlux do not bond well to an epoxy base?

If true can I just put down interlux primecoat and then paint or if I do a glass repair and then use filler if needed can I just paint right over that?

[1affiah]

Not sure about interlux, but Imron is designed to be used with epoxy primer.

[picklesandjesse]

I've used Awlgrip and Sterling on a few boats over the years and can recomend both. Roll and tip in the right weather conditions. Buy the brushing activater and thinner. 2 coats thinned at 25% then a third at 30%. You cannot tell that they were rolled and tipped. But you have to work fast and layer on the correct amount. It's a learning curve. Have a helper roll on in front of you and keep talking to each other. You will know after the first 5 mins if you have got it right and you might have to adjust it a bit if there are runs or it looks a bit dry. Any runs can be sanded the next day before the next coat. Use a few drops of the promoter in cool weather. It's in a small bottle. There are 4 chemicals to mix together if you need to do that. Don't forget to work from right to left or opposite if left handed. Watch the sun and remember one side might be warmer than the other. A few things to consider here. Things can change as you are painting and you might have to adjust. It's most important to pick the correct weather conditions. An early dew will flatten the finish if the paint has not gone off. Very satisfying when things go well. Each day is different.

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by flyingfin

Used Awlgrip fairing compound to fix damage, then sanded entire hull. Thinned a Sherwin Williams two part polyurethane and sprayed two coats. That was 30 years ago, held up good to the Florida sun! But I also watched a Midnight Lace come out of the mold at the factory and get painted with black gloss Imron by roll/tip. Was amazed at the quality of the finish. Of course the guys doing the roll/tip were experts.

Attachment 179701

I used Sherwin Williams bottom paint and barrier coat, at amazingly affordable prices. As the military folks use it, I expect it's good, and my limited - close to 6 years in really foul water on the bottom job so far, and that's only the first color, so it may well be that long again before I have to pull and paint again - experience is beyond satisfied.

So, I'm interested if you have the part number for the paint you used, and whether spray is the only application method approved. We really need, soon, an entire topsides repaint - it might be a reason to haul before we need the bottom job - and so this is of direct interest. We'll have to figure out nonskid, too, as it's going to be everything above the water line.

And, I wonder if you still have the boat, or in any event have some idea of its wear resistance (deck, non-skid) and UV resistance (the reference to 30 years ago, with no reference to either issue presumes you no longer have the boat)?

Thanks for any input. I REALLY like Sherwin Williams in my two materials so far. I was referred by a buddy who also loves it, and he's had it longer, but had to come out of the water for raising the waterline, so his topcoat of the bottom paint isn't as 'old' as ours is...

[ontherocks83]

Originally Posted by Bill O

Gel coat is a more durable finish than Awlgrip and once you paint you are committed. All depends on how long you want to keep your boat.


Personally I've never rolled/tipped Awlgrip, but have always sprayed. The spraying is fairly easy (if you watch what you are doing) and much quicker to lay down the film thickness needed. A decent HVLP spray gun can be purchased inexpensively.


A couple of things with Awlgrip is you can't really "wax" it or apply rubbing compound and is difficult to touch up. Awlcraft is their "repairable" product. Also getting the surface primed properly will make a big difference in the final presentation as well a durability. The Awlgrip/Awlcraft products are on the higher end of the $ scale for paint.

Lots of other 2 part paint products out there and you will need to wade through the hype to make a selection. Had good durability w/Interlux (now Interlux Perfection) on a 40' hull. Still looked good after 20 yrs when I sold it. Probably more work than you want to do, but applied (sprayed) 4 primer coats then 3 finish coats (sanding between coats). When finished I was told by workers in the yard it "was a <10' job". (there are 10', 20', 30' jobs finishes and is the distance you need to stand away when it looks good). More recently sprayed a couple of spars with Perfection and they are still looking good.


Good luck w/the project. If you do paint, try to perfect either your roll/tipping or spraying techniques on something smaller before the big project.


Bill O.

Do you know if interlux perfection can be used below the water line. The potter is not going to live in the water, mostly trailered day sails or at most leaving it tied up at a dock for a weekend. I really don't want to put a traditional bottom paint on it but something is needed because the bottom isn't in that great of shape and could use something. I'm thinking of painting it red from the hull deck joint down to the center board

[HopCar]

Originally Posted by ontherocks83

Do you know if interlux perfection can be used below the water line. The potter is not going to live in the water, mostly trailered day sails or at most leaving it tied up at a dock for a weekend. I really don't want to put a traditional bottom paint on it but something is needed because the bottom isn't in that great of shape and could use something. I'm thinking of painting it red from the hull deck joint down to the center board

It’s ok to use Perfection for typical trailer boat use. I might worry if you were not going to let it dry out for a month or more.

[Delfin]

Originally Posted by HopCar

My choice would be to paint it with Interlux Perfection. It is a two part polyurethane like Awl Grip but was designed for amateur application by roll and tip. Awl Grip works best when sprayed.

Gel coat is just a pain to apply and get a smooth finish. Epoxy breaks down in the sun light.

I have painted two small boats with Perfection and gotten pretty good results. I use a technique that I learned from PT Watercraft. The trick is to thin the paint 15% rather than the 10% suggested by Interlux. You just roll it on, no tipping needed, and the paint flattens very nicely to a high gloss. Here is a link to their book. You can download it for $3.50. ?...By the way Rolling Perfection took me from very erratic results rolling and tipping to a star painter with gloss so shiny you use it to shave with. *Thanks...? D.P. ?rocketkayak?

We built their Spear 13' last year and followed the painting instructions. Worked great.

[Fore and Aft]

Heck you are only talking 15 feet, why not take it to the local auto repair or boatyard and get it sprayed? If you did most of the prep work yourself this could be an economical solution and you end up with an excellent finish.
Cheers

[SteveSadler]

All the above paints will likely work fine.
I have an issue with the primers being expensive, a weak link between gel coat and topcoat. Imron is likely the cheapest and best paint you buy for cars, boats, airplanes etc, and does not need a primer unless it's for steel or aluminium. Dupont was the first company to develop linier polyurethane paints and dominated the aircraft industry. Awlgrip in second place targeted the marine industry and has done well there.
I've had multiple issues with Awlgrip blistering, dissolving it's primer, unneeded expensive primers fillers etc, but have not used any other brands on a boat.

[SparkyDorado]

Originally Posted by ontherocks83

Thanks everybody, there is some great info so far! I think I am leaning towards the interlux perfection.

I'm not sure if I'm mistaken but if I do a repair with a West system glass and epoxy, is it true that polyurethane products like interlux do not bond well to an epoxy base?

If true can I just put down interlux primecoat and then paint or if I do a glass repair and then use filler if needed can I just paint right over that?

Actually, the PT Watercraft method recommends that you use West Epoxy as the prime coat instead of Interlux primer, so yes, the paint bonds very well to epoxy.

Perhaps you are thinking of the running debate about the viability of putting gel coat over epoxy, but that's better discussed in another thread (spoiler alert - West says you can do it, the old-timers say you can't).

[jen1722terry]

Ditto on all the above, particularly the advice to use Interlux Perfection. We redid our decks on our Cape Dory 31 in '15 and the stuff really holds up, even to anchor chain on deck!

We also found the Perfection to be somewhat forgiving of the weather. Here in Nova Scotia, the springs are wet and cooler. We did the decks under the shrink wrap (with vent fans and respirators) and the stuff went on fine. Yes, we have a few drips and runs around the many fittings, but it all passes the 3-foot eye test. Great stuff, though no longer available in Canada.

Good luck!

Jenn and Terry
Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia
Kearsarge, New Hampshire

[Wulf]

Originally Posted by jen1722terry

though no longer available in Canada.

It is still listed on Amazon.ca. Just watch the pricing, some $$ appear to be in line, others are way high.

[GeneM]

I have used Interlux Perfection extensively. It's a good choice.

If you paint solo, don't bother with tipping, especially if it's hot out like most of the time in FL. Just get a good roller and change them when they deteriorate. Thin the paint as recommended, but lay it down as thick as possible. That will allow it to flow flat. I'd rather see a run or sag than a roller dry splotch. Don't go back with your roller; it will ruin the finish. Hit missed spots on the second coat.

Get smart about how to track where your wet edge is.

As a solo painter, I only mix about 4 oz of paint at a time to be sure it's in the best flow state. (sometimes I go to 6 oz). Mix 4 oz, wait your 20 min, then mix another 4 oz and paint while it settles out bubbles. Repeat for more. My rollers only last for about 4 oz. If I push it to 6 oz, my roller leaves some flakes.

Above is for the finish coat. The prime 2 coats are easy. Lay them both down in a day and sand to prepare for the finish coats.

[Wotname]

GeneM, ^^ what type of roller do you use?

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by GeneM

Just get a good roller and change them when they deteriorate.
…
My rollers only last for about 4 oz. If I push it to 6 oz, my roller leaves some flakes.

Do you mean throw the roller away?

Or just set it aside for cleaning?