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Old 08-11-2010, 23:28   #16
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Me I'd go with the self adhesive Velcro tape sticks to most (even HD Poly)

Just a thought hope it helps!
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Old 09-11-2010, 20:47   #17
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"Epoxy will not stick to "plastic"." Traditionally.

But if you go to a large hardware store and look at the "plumbers putty" type 2-part epoxy putty tubes, you will find that some of them specifically say they will bond to PVC, ABS, and other plastics, with the intent of fixing plastic plumbing and lawn furniture.

Conventional epoxy still won't stick to plexi or lexan (not long term) but some of these new putties are apparently designed to stick to many plastics.

If nothing on the shelf says it will work--call the manufacturers, the big ones all can tell you specific products to use.
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Old 09-11-2010, 21:14   #18
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Foam cored double stick Scotch tape. Renew occasionally. No mess. Cheap.
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Old 09-11-2010, 21:19   #19
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Well...Neptune claimed one of my lights on the trip down, and when I went to replace it, Depot on longer sells them. And wouldn't sell me their display model?

So I had to go with a different model to replace it, which can't be mounted as I was planning. Would up getting a few small PVC caps that I can screw in, and then glue that to the light.
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Old 09-11-2010, 23:05   #20
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Heat treat the roughened surface of the plastic, to carbonize the polymer, then use epoxy, preferably one with a high modulus of elasticity like G-Flex from West System. This technique is cover in the user's guides at West System. Naturally, the stainless should be scuffed with 100 grit immediately prior to epoxy application so that oxidation can't affect the bond.
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:39   #21
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+1 on the Silicone. It's used as gutter sealant so I wouldn't guess that weather would melt it. 3M trim tape may also work. The dark grey stuff from an auto parts store. It holds mouldings on cars summer and winter so I don't think it would melt either.
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Old 10-11-2010, 03:37   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grunzster View Post
Because it's a solar light.

Maybe a small PVC cap that could be screwed into the stainless, and then glued to, or maybe even screw into the sides of the base would be a better option.
You may be barking up the wrong tree with gle at all.

Our (damn, I keep saying that) my solar lights are attached to the lifeline staunchions with cable ties.

For ones to have on the cockpit table, we take the thing apart and remove the base screw and remove the fitting. Then the base of the light can be attached by a screw to any other surface or another type of fitting.
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:50   #23
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Depending upon how brave (fool hardy) you are, you may be able to find some similar material and do a little plastic welding. Harbor Freight even sells plastic welding kits but a soldering iron may work well.

I fixed (and we all know THAT has more than one meaning) a diaphragm bilge pump like that a couple of weeks ago. Haven't tried it out yet.
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:33   #24
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If you want it to stick, go with the 3M 5200. Its polyurethane. Polysulfide has the problems with plastic, but not 5200.
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:56   #25
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PL Preimium700. Comes in a tube like silicone. It's used for instaling shower/tub surrounds works great. Just don't plan on taking it off again.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:45   #26
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You may be barking up the wrong tree with gle at all.

Our (damn, I keep saying that) my solar lights are attached to the lifeline staunchions with cable ties.

For ones to have on the cockpit table, we take the thing apart and remove the base screw and remove the fitting. Then the base of the light can be attached by a screw to any other surface or another type of fitting.
That's how these were attached. Mounting from the base will allow me to locate them in a better spot (as far as usefulness, and more protection from weather.
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:05   #27
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Screw the lamp to a piece of wood and glue the wood to the steel
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:15   #28
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Has anyone considered Gorilla Glue, Liquid Nails, or JB weld?? Maybe you can test these on a small piece of the plastic and see if one or the other will work. Seems like I can always get one or the other to work. But, it's interesting, I don't think I've ever tried them on stainless.

If all else fails DUCT TAPE!!!
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:19   #29
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cable ties

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkJ View Post
You may be barking up the wrong tree with gle at all.

Our (damn, I keep saying that) my solar lights are attached to the lifeline staunchions with cable ties.

For ones to have on the cockpit table, we take the thing apart and remove the base screw and remove the fitting. Then the base of the light can be attached by a screw to any other surface or another type of fitting.
If the cable ties are out side just make sure you're using the black ones, not the white ones. UV destroyed the white ones I used outside very very quickly.

Any pictures anyone?

Good luck,
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Old 10-11-2010, 16:41   #30
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grunzster-
"and when I went to replace it, Depot on longer sells them. And wouldn't sell me their display model?"
I had an experience like that at a Sears store once, long time ago. I had just busted a large hex wrench (last POS from China that I ever bought) and cut open a few knuckles and said, gee, if I hurry I can get to Sears and buy a Craftsman.
And there was one wired onto the display shelf but none in stock for sale. So I explained very nicely to the manager that he did in fact have ONE WRENCH which I intended to buy, and that if he wasn't going to take it off the display, then I would have to take it off the display, because I was there to buy a wrench and THAT ONE WAS THE ONLY ONE HE HAD.
He took it off the display, and I have it to this day.

I would suggest you go back to that "depot" and exlain to them that if they aren't going to stock and sell any more of those lights, and they do have THAT ONE ON DISPLAY, that they need to take it OFF DISPLAY AND SELL IT TO YOU before you contact corporate and try to explain that the store manager must be discriminating against you because he has the part you need BUT HE REFUSES TO SELL IT TO YOU even though it is the last one left.
Be polite, but adamant. When an idiot realizes that you just won't go away, usually he will do what you keep telling him to do, just so you will go away.

daddle-
"Foam cored double stick Scotch tape." That's usually sold as an "interior grade" product. They make a "rubbery" cored tape that's more durable for exterior use, doesn't break down in heat the way the white cored stuff does. But honest--there are specific adhesives for this job.
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