Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Lucas
Nothing in those directions says the boat can be out of the water more than 60 days and that it's OK to just Scott-Brite the surface if so. |
You will find over the years of boat
ownership and
maintenance that there are three ways of doing anything - the "Best Way;" the "Good Way;" and the "Quick and Dirty Way."
- - The Petite Tech
Sheets are going to only give you the "Best Way" as they are in essence "warranting" their product to work if you follow their directions to the letter.
- - Practical experience will normally show that there is some or even considerable "leeway" in following their procedures and you can still get acceptable performance/results.
- - The "Quick and Dirty" is what is done when you need to get the job done and the boat back into
water in a hurry or you plan on getting rid of the boat. Kind of like the old used-car technique of putting sawdust into the
oil pan to quiet the
engine until the customer is off the car lot.
- - As others have said, the "To Launch" times are primarily to allow the
paint to harden enough so that the travel-lift straps will not rip it off the boat.
- - The "60 days" out of the water is the limit before oxidation degrades the paint's surface so that optimum performance is compromised.
- - "Quick and Dirty" is to "Scotch-brite" the surface to abrade off the top layer of oxidized
paint. The random orbital sander with 120 grit does the same thing faster. A more coarse grit will remove too much paint.
- - The "Good" way is to remove the oxidized surface layer and then repaint with a new coat of fresh paint. However, it is better to thin the paint the new coat with Petite Thinner to allow it to "flow" smoother onto the hull's surface. High copper content Petite Trinidad is rather thick paint and it will dry too fast in warm/hot climates and you end up with a rough surface.
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