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Old 25-08-2013, 23:42   #16
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Re: anyway to keep the teak looking like this?

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Originally Posted by pbiJim View Post
If you don't get the stop action chemical on it quickly enough after applying the cleaner, it will cause some damage. I found that out the hard way. But when used as directed, I was able to bring back some pretty shabby looking wood pretty quickly. The grain was already raised before I started, so a little fine sanding was already on the to-do list. I've never used Teaka on a frequent basis. It was my nuclear option for wood that was looking well past it's prime. I actually haven't seen it in stores for several years now.


Te-Ka.


TE-KA Teak Wood Cleaner


You hit the nail on the head there, this is what I use after stripping and before boarding flat. You don't have to remove quite as much teak and I believe I get better adhesion to clean teak that has been TeKa'd. This is because it removes the natural teak oil near the surface, and it takes a couple of days for more oil to seep up to the surface. If you seal during this time you get better penetration and adhesion, as well as beautiful uniform color with no stains.
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Old 26-08-2013, 01:21   #17
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Re: anyway to keep the teak looking like this?

A smarter option:

Learn to love the look of silver teak
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Old 26-08-2013, 02:19   #18
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Re: anyway to keep the teak looking like this?

Most advice on talk or any hardwood is contradictory. Here's my experience.

If you needed to protect from very high temperatures, splash on any varnish etc to keep the moisture in as much as possible, during the wortst hot weather, til it cracks off and you can treat with some oil or well thinned oil based varnish. We actually paint non visible parts with enamel paint, simply for its preservative effect / but then it can get to 45c + in Oz.

Oil frequently

Never scrub with a brush, especially decks. Sand or better still use a heavy flat stone.

Never epoxy teak it just falls off!
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Old 26-08-2013, 09:36   #19
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Re: anyway to keep the teak looking like this?

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Never epoxy teak it just falls off!
Not had a problem with that, as long as you thin the first two coats with MEK to the viscosity of rubbing alcohol. Soaks right in, creating a base for a thicker coat before applying varnish. Works fine on rub and cap rails, etc. On my teak decks (and you might think about this, Scoobert), I kept the king plank and edge boards bright and left everything else silvered. These accents looked really good, I thought, and didn't interfere with the main non skid function of the teak.
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