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Old 17-07-2009, 16:13   #1
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Any Experience Repairing Mast with Sleeve(s)?

My mast was broken at the spreaders during hurricane Ike last September. Although I still have a way to go until she is in decent shape, I am considering repairing the mast with an internal sleeve (as it is only about 2 years old ). I'd like to hear from anyone who has done this themselves, had it done by a professional, or have known someone to do this. Cost? Longevity? Internal,external, or both? What was used for the sleeve - old mast extrusion, aluminum sheets? How was it attached- riiveted or bolted? (been researching and it looks like welding would weaken the aluminum...)

I realize this will add more weight aloft, and is probably worrisome in rough weather - but I've recently noticed several boats at nearby marinas with obvious mast repairs, and would like to hear from someone who has done this.
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Old 17-07-2009, 18:05   #2
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Never done that but know you need a section of the same extrusion as your mast. It's cut lengthwise to make it fit inside and riveted with monel rivets.

But, if the break is not straight or clean, your mast will be shorter.... I think you will need to buy a length for the upper part plus what you need to cut from the lower part. The left-overs can be used for the sleeve.

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Old 17-07-2009, 18:16   #3
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Had my mast repaired after damage that was almost identical. JSI quoted 4 hrs labor to make sleeve and reweld. It turns out the mast had a factory weld joint at spreaders. Broke because upper shroud parted after contacting piling during hurricane charlie. I bought boat that way from cooper capital who auctioned off. I ended up trading canvas work for welding and found a piece of same mast extrusion from local salvage yard. sleeve still needed shaping and resizing as it had to fit internal dimension.
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Old 17-07-2009, 19:01   #4
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Originally Posted by s/v Jedi View Post
you need a section of the same extrusion as your mast.
How long does this have to be.
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Old 17-07-2009, 21:26   #5
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Tex,

You need a rigger. Think about what I wrote about the mast being too short. A tape measure will tell you the answer.

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Old 18-07-2009, 01:25   #6
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You don't actually need a section of same mast. It won't fit inside anyway without reshaping and splitting. The original "weldment" as it is called in the Morgan documentation was a 3" internal sleeve . I've seen shops repair different ways. SSMR at Salt creek boat works rivets and epoxies. At JSI I talked to the head of the spar dept and he recommended welding. The guy I talked to built the mast originally for Morgan. I was amazed when he looked out shop door at mast pieces on trailer and said "33 Morgan OutIsland right?".
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Old 18-07-2009, 08:56   #7
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If the mast is tapered, AFAIK the sleeve is usually external simply so it can be shaped in place to match both sides of the break as tightly as possible. Then attached with multiple rivets. Considering what you are betting on the qualoity of the repair, and that your insurer may ask "who did the repair?" this is something you MIGHT want to have done by a spar shop. Unless you are very sure of your work.
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Old 18-07-2009, 11:56   #8
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I have had it done in Annapolis just to reinforce the mast where the internal furling gap was. They used a piece of the same mast extrusion, cut it and made it fit closely on the outside with the original mast. They did about a 4 ft long reinforcement. They used a structural high strength epoxy adhesive and about 100 big flush rivets. I have seen masts that were built new with internal sleeves at the spreaders/butt weld joint. It's not a bad idea at all, as noted above!, it's a good location for a little reinforcing anyway, and welded aluminum has little strength in the weld... unless re-heat treated..
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Old 19-07-2009, 04:49   #9
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I extended my mast this winter and it was a lot of work but turned out well . first I found some anodised ali ( an old roadsign ! ) then made 6 sections 500mm long and riveted them inside the mast and into the new section ie 250mm overlap . . for extra insurance I added an external strip at the fwd edge so as to make a triple sandwich where I believe the most load is applied when sheeting the main in hard . the mast is a z spars 600 section .if you look around the marinas you will find many masts sleeved in this way its quite normal . the joint is stronger than tha mast itself as in a weld . always use Monel rivets they are much stronger and will not corrode also be sure to use Duralac paste on all metal to metal contact areas i used 60 x6mm x 19mm in the joint in total and it was at the top of the mast too . good luck .
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Old 20-07-2009, 10:31   #10
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Thanks for all the helpful responses ... I'm seriously considering repairing rather then replacing, and I appreciate all of the great information!

Gramos - how thick was the 'old roadsign'? - is that metal (like here) .080in (2.032 mm) thick? And were those '6 sections' separate strips or overlapping sheets?
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Old 20-07-2009, 10:50   #11
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From an engineering standpoint, I dont see individual strips adding much strength except as something to tie rivets to. Two pieces if necessary, split at forward and aft and fit to the mast shape would be much better.
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Old 20-07-2009, 15:56   #12
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I agree with Cheechako: better do it like every spar-maker and rigger does for masts that come in two sections: a 1-piece internal sleeve, epoxy and monel rivets.

Also: I have not yet seen a single aluminium mast with external sleeves but have seen hundreds with internal sleeves. Some posters make it seem that it is the other way around....

ciao!
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Old 20-07-2009, 16:00   #13
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Nick is right. You can actually watch Yves Gelinas make this repair in the fantastic film "With Jean-du-Sud Around the World". It was internal, with epoxy and rivets...
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Old 20-07-2009, 18:06   #14
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Just for correction, not every spar that comes in two sections is riveted and epoxied, mine was welded at spreaders as per boats specifications.
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Old 26-07-2009, 05:10   #15
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Thanks for all the helpful responses ... I'm seriously considering repairing rather then replacing, and I appreciate all of the great information!

Gramos - how thick was the 'old roadsign'? - is that metal (like here) .080in (2.032 mm) thick? And were those '6 sections' separate strips or overlapping sheets?
The mast is 3.4mm thick and the ,er , "sign" was 4.5mm aluminium , perfect !

theres one near you !

all the sections were made up individually to suit the standing rigging fittings around the mast head , cap shrouds , diamond stays t balls .. I have some photos some where if you want to see them ?
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