Anti-Sieze and Loc Tite

[Charlie]

I have found myself in situations where I would like to put anti-seize and a SS bolt and screw it in to a tapped aluminum thread. My gooseneck comes to mind. I have used a standard anti-seize product and it causes the bolt to become slippery and release. I was wondering if anyone has experience with a product that is both anit-seize and loctite. I have also used Tef Gel. When I can get good torque they seem to work fine but when combining SS and Alum I am afraid to torque too tight. Can anyone offer solutions. I am looking a ta product called Dura Lac and then topping that with loctite.

[colemj]

Sounds like what you are looking for is really a separation barrier between dissimilar metals. For that, tef-gel, duralac and loctite will work just fine. I have never had a problem with tef-gel and bolts working loose, but I almost always use a lock washer on those. You can use loctite and get both a solid bond and galvanic isolation.

Mark

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Charlie

I have found myself in situations where I would like to put anti-seize and a SS bolt and screw it in to a tapped aluminum thread. My gooseneck comes to mind. I have used a standard anti-seize product and it causes the bolt to become slippery and release. I was wondering if anyone has experience with a product that is both anit-seize and loctite. I have also used Tef Gel. When I can get good torque they seem to work fine but when combining SS and Alum I am afraid to torque too tight. Can anyone offer solutions. I am looking a ta product called Dura Lac and then topping that with loctite.

I use Duralac, I havent noticed anything releasing, it dries quite hard.

Dave

[Charlie]

Originally Posted by colemj

Sounds like what you are looking for is really a separation barrier between dissimilar metals. For that, tef-gel, duralac and loctite will work just fine. I have never had a problem with tef-gel and bolts working loose, but I almost always use a lock washer on those. You can use loctite and get both a solid bond and galvanic isolation.

Mark

Yes but you have a Catamaran and they are not allowed to cause bounce or have vibrations

GBN Dura Lac is difficult to find in the US. I have located it from Fisheries Supplies in Seattle. Pricey though at $40 + shipping for a 115ml tube

[colemj]

Originally Posted by Charlie

Yes but you have a Catamaran and they are not allowed to cause bounce or have vibrations

GBN Dura Lac is difficult to find in the US. I have located it from Fisheries Supplies in Seattle. Pricey though at $40 + shipping for a 115ml tube

WHAT???? Where have you been??? We over-hulled people flip daily when we aren't gliding along at 35kts sipping champagne.

Get over the price of duralac and tefgel because you use so little of it and it makes such a difference. I use tefgel a lot (mostly because Dave uses duralac ) and that little tube of it has been with me for several years. That $40 duralac will amortize to a couple of bucks year and save thousands of bucks of gear.

But like I said, I have been using loctite more and more. I even found some in solid form in a chapstick-like tube and that has become a favorite of mine lately.

Mark

[delmarrey]

I've been using 3M - 4200, which works for me. Little to no electrolysis, the bolt doesn't back out and it's EZ to get out when you want. All my thru deck fasteners, the threads/nuts are coated with 4200. And make a good anti-seize for SS It's like teflon tape.

[colemj]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

I've been using 3M - 4200, which works for me. Little to no electrolysis, the bolt doesn't back out and it's EZ to get out when you want. All my thru deck fasteners, the threads/nuts are coated with 4200. And make a good anti-seize for SS It's like teflon tape.

The downside is that once opened, the tube sets hard quickly, so unless you are using 4200 a lot (and constantly?), throwing away 90% of it gets expensive.

Mark

[barnakiel]

Try DuraLac.

Try Riveting.

b.

[Bash]

Originally Posted by colemj

I even found some in solid form in a chapstick-like tube and that has become a favorite of mine lately.

Ouch! With my luck, I'd use the loc-tite on my lips.

(+1 on riveting. Sometimes it's easier to drill out a rivet than have to deal with loc-tite bolts.)

[HopCar]

When I was a teenager I hung out in an outboard repair shop. It was always a problem taking stainless bolts out of aluminum motors. The mechanic taught me to coat the threads with Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No3 when we re-assembled a motor. If the motor came back for more service it was always easy to take apart yet the bolts didn't vibrate out during use. Delmarrey's use of 4200 probably works for the same reason. It prevents corrosion but also sticks and prevents backing out.

[Charlie]

Originally Posted by colemj

WHAT???? Where have you been??? We over-hulled people flip daily when we aren't gliding along at 35kts sipping champagne.

Get over the price of duralac and tefgel because you use so little of it and it makes such a difference. I use tefgel a lot (mostly because Dave uses duralac ) and that little tube of it has been with me for several years. That $40 duralac will amortize to a couple of bucks year and save thousands of bucks of gear.

But like I said, I have been using loctite more and more. I even found some in solid form in a chapstick-like tube and that has become a favorite of mine lately.

Mark

I was wondering if loctite itself would work.

Originally Posted by delmarrey

I've been using 3M - 4200, which works for me. Little to no electrolysis, the bolt doesn't back out and it's EZ to get out when you want. All my thru deck fasteners, the threads/nuts are coated with 4200. And make a good anti-seize for SS It's like teflon tape.

4200 sounds like a good plan when there are lots of bolts to do.

Originally Posted by barnakiel

Try DuraLac.

Try Riveting.

b.

Originally Posted by Bash

Ouch! With my luck, I'd use the loc-tite on my lips.

(+1 on riveting. Sometimes it's easier to drill out a rivet than have to deal with loc-tite bolts.)

Bash and Barnakiel riveting is fine for smaller items but anythign over 1/4" is tricky.

Originally Posted by HopCar

When I was a teenager I hung out in an outboard repair shop. It was always a problem taking stainless bolts out of aluminum motors. The mechanic taught me to coat the threads with Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No3 when we re-assembled a motor. If the motor came back for more service it was always easy to take apart yet the bolts didn't vibrate out during use. Delmarrey's use of 4200 probably works for the same reason. It prevents corrosion but also sticks and prevents backing out.

HopCar thanks for the idea. I think that Permatex product is great. And now I have a new use for it.

[donradcliffe]

I took some SS screws out of the aluminum bits on my Harken roller furler after 15 years and they came out easily with no hint of corrosion, because they were put together with the Harken-recommended loctite red. Interestingly, they now ship their furlers with 3M 5200...

[Jim Cate]

G'Day Charlie,

We've had a long term problem with the screws that attach the gooseneck to both boom and mast working out. We tried Duralac (much used here in Oz), we tried a rainbow of different Loc tites, but the damn things kept backing out.

Finally got pissed off enough and bought some socket head screws of the appropriate size, drilled them and used safety wire al la aircraft practice, with a dollop of anti seize to keep them from corroding in place. Voila -- problem solved!

But the Permatex idea is cool, too.

Cheers,

Jim