Anitfouling Bottom Paint - Your Recommendations

[perkie43]

Doing our first haul out and bottom recoat. From the survey and our own inspection, the bottom is in good shape and the previous antifouling appears very good. We don't anticipate removing any of the existing coating. We're planning on a light sanding after the pressure wash.

Looking at various manufacturers and comparing. Interlux Micron 66 looks good, but we're wondering what others' experiences have been on the products they've used and your recommendations.

S/V Galileo
Pamlico River, NC

[vintageray]

I just did mine with Blue Water Copper Shield. tested superior to many and the price is very good. www.bluewatermarinepaint.com

[minaret]

I like Trinidad SR.

[C Skip R]

You might check with the local boat yards for their recommendations as every part of US has different water conditions and effective bottom paints will differ. Micron 66 is very good bottom paint for central Fl. We have used SeaHawk Islands 44 for a few years with superb results but it has to be purchased outside of the US. You can get it in the Bahamas.

[HopCar]

Do you know what type of paint is on the boat now? Some paints are not compatable with others. You will also have to decide if you want to use a hard paint or an ablative paint. The hard paints, like Trinadad build up and need to be removed eventually. The ablatives, like Micron 66, disolve over time like a bar of soap. When you start to see gelcoat, it's time to repaint. If you're going to have a diver wipe your bottom often, the hard paint will hold up better. With either Micron 66 or Trinadad SR, you shouldn't need a diver for at least a year, maybe to clean the running gear. What ever paint you use, buy one with a slime killer in it. Pettit Paints will have SR (slime resistant) in their name and Interlux Paints will say with Biolux. These are the chemicals that replaced Tri Butyl Tin when it was banned. For your prop and shaft I recomend Prop Speed. It's the only thing I've found that will stay effective for any length of time. Pettit makes a zinc based prop coating that I've read good things about but I've never tried it.

[donradcliffe]

Sea Hawk Islands 44 is tin-based, and is banned in most parts of the world. The Micron 66 is good stuff, better than Micron Extra, but quite expensive. My current bottom is WMP CPP+, which has performed at least as well as the Micron Extra at half the cost.

[Don L]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

Sea Hawk Islands 44 is tin-based, and is banned in most parts of the world. The Micron 66 is good stuff, better than Micron Extra, but quite expensive. My current bottom is WMP CPP+, which has performed at least as well as the Micron Extra at half the cost.

Just goes to show that the boating area makes a difference. I've used the WM CCP+ and it sucked!

[perkie43]

Our boatyard (Jarrett Bay, North Carolina) is recommending Micron CSC and Sea Hawk Cukote.

I don't know the existing paint on the hull, so will wait to find out when she's lifted out of the water.

Comments, thoughts, recommendations are very welcomed.

S/V Galileo
Pamilco River, NC

[donradcliffe]

I tried the Cukote the last time, the results weren't that good--had barnacles growing in less than 4 months. The CPP+ has been on for about 12 months, in waters from NC to Panama to Hawaii to Calif, and it looks like the biocide is not as effective as it was, because there is now a bit of grassy stuff around the waterline, but no hard growth. I'm not sure how much paint ablates off in 10,000 miles.

[Therapy]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

I tried the Cukote the last time, the results weren't that good--had barnacles growing in less than 4 months. The CPP+ has been on for about 12 months, in waters from NC to Panama to Hawaii to Calif, and it looks like the biocide is not as effective as it was, because there is now a bit of grassy stuff around the waterline, but no hard growth. I'm not sure how much paint ablates off in 10,000 miles.

Maybe because you are on the move?

My Cukote seems OK except sitting for 10 days on a ball in Boot Key Harbor. Millions of tiny hard things. At least they rubbed off with relative ease.

What is this CPP+?

[HopCar]

Perkie43, Neither of the paints recommended by your yard contain a slime preventer. The slime preventer will really extend the life of the paint. Both of the recommended paints have a big brother that does have a slime preventer. It is worth the extra money. If you go with Sea Hawk get Cukote Biocide Plus. If you go with Interlux, get the Micron Extra with Biolux.

[heyniceguy]

has anyone heard or tried the technique/magic-trick/myth of mixing cayenne pepper to your bottom paint to extend the duration of detering bottom critters?

[minaret]

Originally Posted by heyniceguy

has anyone heard or tried the technique/magic-trick/myth of mixing cayenne pepper to your bottom paint to extend the duration of detering bottom critters?

Ever heard of Hotbottom? It didn't make it in the market for a reason. Antifouling properties are good, but applying it sucks. Every little bit of roller spatter you get on your skin burns like fire. It's like painting a bottom with pepperspray. And God forbid you ever have to sand it off...

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by HopCar

With either Micron 66 or Trinadad SR, you shouldn't need a diver for at least a year...

Absolutely 100% untrue. Very surprising, coming from a Floridian. Here's some proof:

Cal 39- 3-month old Trindad bottom, taken this summer




Beneteau First 10r with a 2-month old Micron 66 bottom, taken winter 2010

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by heyniceguy

has anyone heard or tried the technique/magic-trick/myth of mixing cayenne pepper to your bottom paint to extend the duration of detering bottom critters?

This old salt's tale is just like 99% of all the other bullsh*t you hear on the docks- it doesn't work.