And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

[knottybuoyz]

Originally Posted by minaret

Rush out and get one, these are the ONLY way to fillet. I make my own custom large ones out of ball hitches. For a fillet which barely needs sanding, fillet as normal with ball, remove excess, spray with a fine mist of alchohol and make a final single pass with the ball. Use one and you'll never go back.

Go ahead, just take my money!

[minaret]

They're very cheap, especially considering how much work they save on final fairing finish fillets. Keep em clean and they last forever. Only solution for tapered fillets on a running angle, and for perfect inside corners. There's just no other way to do it.

[knottybuoyz]

Originally Posted by minaret

They're very cheap, especially considering how much work they save on final fairing finish fillets. Keep em clean and they last forever. Only solution for tapered fillets on a running angle, and for perfect inside corners. There's just no other way to do it.

I'm trying to think of what visible fillets I'll have. The deck to cabin side joins, inside the cockpit. Pretty much everything else won't be seen. The only large radius fillet I've done so far is the keel side to bottom join. I used a rounded over plastic spatula. It worked ok. I went over it once cured with a round (1 3/8") Durablock. I suppose I could make my own out of a trailer ball too. Might give it a try. Thnx. minaret.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by knottybuoyz

I'm trying to think of what visible fillets I'll have. The deck to cabin side joins, inside the cockpit. Pretty much everything else won't be seen. The only large radius fillet I've done so far is the keel side to bottom join. I used a rounded over plastic spatula. It worked ok. I went over it once cured with a round (1 3/8") Durablock. I suppose I could make my own out of a trailer ball too. Might give it a try. Thnx. minaret.

It's a PITA to make one out of a ball hitch, you have to fair out the flat spot on top. A machinist friend made me a couple out of some huge ball bearings with rod welded on once, but they were so nice they got stolen. House to deck joint, brow to house, bulwarks to deck, and lots of other places probably. The small set is $30 well spent, every laminator should have one IMHO. After you've flipped the hull and are fairing on deck and house you'll want them.

[knottybuoyz]

3 1/2 hrs of sandinsanity again this morning. Had to call it quits when the temp reached 35 C or about 95 F. Just prepping the fabric edges along the keel to bottom joint so I don't get any bridging when I lay the next layers over it. Sorry, no pics. I know you're disappointed. I'll try to do better next time so until then here's a random pic.



This is one of the durablock pads I have that I used on the large radius fillets. I think I'll stick with this method instead of fillet balls!

[knottybuoyz]

You know you're a boat builder when you can no longer fold the arms of your eyeglasses closed because they're permanently epoxied in the open position! Don't ask me how I know.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by knottybuoyz

3 1/2 hrs of sandinsanity again this morning. Had to call it quits when the temp reached 35 C or about 95 F. Just prepping the fabric edges along the keel to bottom joint so I don't get any bridging when I lay the next layers over it. Sorry, no pics. I know you're disappointed. I'll try to do better next time so until then here's a random pic.



This is one of the durablock pads I have that I used on the large radius fillets. I think I'll stick with this method instead of fillet balls!

Good times eh? You can spread a little colloidal along the joint edge just before glassing instead of feathering back if you want to save time. Try the 3M teardrop next time, it's a little stiffer and fairs better than Durablock. You gotta pay the 3M premium though.

[knottybuoyz]

Originally Posted by minaret

Good times eh? You can spread a little colloidal along the joint edge just before glassing instead of feathering back if you want to save time.

Yeah, it's a little warm in there around noon. Gotta tough through it as best I can. Just have to stay hydrated.

The 33 oz Vectorply I used on the bottom panels left a pretty big ragged edge. If I thought I could get away with just a little filler I would. I made one pass with the 5" flap disc on my grinder. That took it down pretty good then a few swipes with the 6" and I've got a nice transition I think.

Originally Posted by minaret

Try the 3M teardrop next time, it's a little stiffer and fairs better than Durablock. You gotta pay the 3M premium though.

I saw those when I was shopping but opted for the Durablock's based on the recommendation of a local auto body guy. He's the best around and I trusted his recommendation. I'd say I'm satisfied with them so far. The longest one I have is 30" and it takes quite a bit of muscle to get it working effectively!

[minaret]

Originally Posted by knottybuoyz

Yeah, it's a little warm in there around noon. Gotta tough through it as best I can. Just have to stay hydrated.

The 33 oz Vectorply I used on the bottom panels left a pretty big ragged edge. If I thought I could get away with just a little filler I would. I made one pass with the 5" flap disc on my grinder. That took it down pretty good then a few swipes with the 6" and I've got a nice transition I think.


I saw those when I was shopping but opted for the Durablock's based on the recommendation of a local auto body guy. He's the best around and I trusted his recommendation. I'd say I'm satisfied with them so far. The longest one I have is 30" and it takes quite a bit of muscle to get it working effectively!

Auto body guys pretty much all use Durablock, it's all they know. IMO they are great for rough fairing, but I always final fair with real flexi longboards. You will find "show car" fairness is difficult to achieve with rubber blocks only. Often when rough fairing with Durablock, a surface will appear fair until you put a longboard with a different grit on it, then it's immediately apparent what's really going on.

[knottybuoyz]

Originally Posted by minaret

Auto body guys pretty much all use Durablock, it's all they know. IMO they are great for rough fairing, but I always final fair with real flexi longboards. You will find "show car" fairness is difficult to achieve with rubber blocks only. Often when rough fairing with Durablock, a surface will appear fair until you put a longboard with a different grit on it, then it's immediately apparent what's really going on.

I may have to see if I can borrow one when it's time. I can't see investing that much money in a tool I'll use once and then have no use for it. I don't intend on going into the boat repair business or anything. I've seen some guys make their own, might tackle that trick when the time comes.

90 Degs in the shed at 9:00 this morning. Needless to say nothing got done today!

[knottybuoyz]

49 C or 120 F No matter how you measure it that's "Freakin' Hot!" Throw in a little humidity and you've got a steam cooker!



The last time I noticed the thermometer in the shed was Saturday. The telltale read 47 C as the highest it's ever been in there. This morning I noticed that's changed to 49 C (120 F). That had to have happened yesterday.

I was hoping to get something done today but in that heat, nope! Five minutes in and I was wringing wet!



You can't really see it very well in these pics but right below the sanding block there's a seam where two plywood sheets were joined. When I bent the panels around the forms this particular seam bent. It didn't break just deformed a bit. I didn't think it would be that much of an issue but every time I walked by it it bugged me.

This defect is large enough that it'll look like a huge wart if I don't deal with it now. I've sanded it down as much as I dare and the only recourse left is to fill and feather it out.



You can just make out the high spot in the center where there's no filler. This got machine and block sanded to feather the edges down and smooth the curve.



This is looking straight on at the repair. The high spot is in the center. You can see the edges of the multiple layers of fill that were added and sanded to build up the area. The long block sander knocks it down quick and I'm left with a very nice smooth curve to the hull now. It took some muscle and patience but I think it's going to be Ok.

I should have my new passport in a week or so then I can go retrieve the 30 gallons of epoxy that's waiting for me in Ogdensburg. If we get a break in the heat it'll be fiberglassin' time again! Wohoo!

The plan is to get the hull ready to be flipped first thing in the spring. If I can do that I'll be happy. We'll likely hire a crane to flip the hull. I want to not only flip it over but turn it 180 degs and put it back in the shed bow in. This will give me much better access to the inside of the hull when it comes time to put the engine in.

Stay cool & Standby.

[Warby12]

Well done on the attention to detail! Now's the time to fix those things, although its easy for me to say Awesome job Notty

[Capt Phil]

For those of us waiting breathlessly for the next set of pics and progress report, can't wait for the flip and the end for end. When I worked on seineboats in the PNW, we used a tidal ways and waited patiently for a higher tide to switch the boat end for end so we could replace transom planks, caulking and splash on the 'red lead' bottom paint. Wonder we aren't all dead (well, some of us are!). Well done, Knotty!!!!+1, Phil

[Bash]

Originally Posted by Capt Phil

For those of us waiting breathlessly for the next set of pics and progress report, can't wait for the flip and the end for end.

I've got a nice bottle set aside for the flipping party.

It's a bit dusty at this point.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Capt Phil

................and splash on the 'red lead' bottom paint. Wonder we aren't all dead (well, some of us are!). Well done, Knotty!!!!+1, Phil

I think it all comes down to how one handles the stuff. I started out pimping gas before they said the fumes were toxic. Then went into machine shops with all the cutting oils before they banned most of them. And onto valve repair for the petroleum companies and in the mean time working on boats with all it's products. Heck, I still have some white lead out in the shop.

I guess if you don't wear/drink the stuff after each use one can turn out norble.