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Old 19-06-2016, 20:42   #1186
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Originally Posted by Celestialsailor View Post
When I had my Ingrid 38, a yard manager was selling one out of his customers high end Tartan, he had just bought. The customer wanted new mast, new sails and a new engine. It was also really low hours. It was listed as a "deisel" rather than "diesel". I had accidentally transposed the i & e. I knew I did something incorrectly as I only received one hit on my daily search. I also bought it for $3K. Best engine I have ever had.

Which 4jh model was it?


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Old 19-06-2016, 21:16   #1187
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Which 4jh model was it?


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It was an earlier model. The 4JH-E at 44hp.
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Old 20-06-2016, 04:27   #1188
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Good to hear. Same as I have in my Tartan that I bought 2 years ago. 2500 hours and starts in a nanosecond, runs perfectly. Figure I'll get a ton more out of it...


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Old 20-06-2016, 08:57   #1189
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Mater of fact, I think it was a Tartan 40 mine had come out of. It was in my Ingrid 38 which I sold in 2007. Just recently it went up on the rocks in Hawaii and holed the hull. The engine was swamped but apparently is running again. The hull however is still on the hard with gaping holes in it.
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Old 20-06-2016, 11:06   #1190
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Our engine came out of a scrapped racing yacht. Story was an older fella bought it after it's racing career was over. He had a contractor hired to fit out the interior. Apparently all it had was a small galley & head. Sleeping was in hammocks. Long story short the contractor went way over budget, the old fella couldn't afford it. There was a lien, then another by the yard and the boat got auctioned off to the guy who salvaged all the goodies. He said after selling the engine for $3K and the new propane stove $1K, he was making money.

Just dropped it off at Marina for service. Chief mechanic took one look as said: "You got yourself a good one there!"
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Old 22-06-2016, 12:50   #1191
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Life seems to get in the way of building a boat on occasion. Been a couple days of nonsense before I could get back to work. Nice cool day in the shed so I bedded some of the stringers and laid down some fillets for taping.



I'd probably still be out there doing more but I somehow managed to glue my shorts to my ass.

Few more pics on the web log update: M/V She:Kon: Bedding, fillets & tape
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Old 23-06-2016, 09:02   #1192
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Picked up a Canon Sureshot off of Facebook for $50 with intent to use it in the boat shed. As it turned out it's a pretty nice camera. Gave it a go this morning.



Using fill flash it almost totally eliminates the 'Blue Hue' of the cell phone pics!

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Old 24-06-2016, 07:00   #1193
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Hey Rick...

When you go to build up the shaft alley and engine stringers, try to leave enough room for a mini-grinder to fit over the top of the engine stringers and enough space to swing a box wrench behind/between the mounts for the motor, as well as bell housing on the gear.

If you aren't going to install new motor mounts when you install the engine... Make sure that they are adjusted more toward the top of their travel, and not the bottom when the engine is lined up. Also make sure that you can get your hands on the part number for identical motor mounts to what you currently have...

Your next new set won't be compressed... if the old mounts are at the bottom of the range, you can't go any further down without grinding.

Namely because if you build the stringers to the pattern and strings... By the time you get through filling the weave, and painting you'll gain not quite 3/16th if you end up painting the bilge twice. If the old mounts are compressed an 1/8th then you've got a 1/4 inch that needs to disappear with new mounts.

If you grind the top of the engine stringers down 3/16th below its line and build it back up beyond the suggested laminate schedule, with glass, you can go grind down later on down the line without seeing wood if you need to tune the installation for new motor mounts, or any other weird things.

Also look into epoxy potting your mounting hardware into place. It works very well... and if you do have a problem you can remove them with a torch and impact wrench pretty easy working from the top.

Cheers,

Zach
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Old 24-06-2016, 15:57   #1194
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Thanks for the tips Zach. I'm currently trying to figure out that exact puzzle.

The design distance between the stringers is 20". Designed for a smaller engine than I have. I need 22".



I can hog out part of the inboard side of the stringers and lower the engine down 3" to sit on solid white oak beds. Or, I can have the engine sit on top of the stringers, I know not ideal. If I end up removing more material from the inboard side I can still bolster the outboard side with more laminate ply & glass. I know the lower I have the engine in the boat the better. 3" lower will help but I can't go any lower or the flywheel housing will hit the turn of the bottom panel to the keel.

Engine alignment won't be critical with the python drive and it's two CV joints in the drive line. I'm shooting for a 6 deg angle on the shaft with the engine sitting dead nuts level. At least that's what it's shaping up to be if I lower the mounts 3". Nothing's cast in epoxy yet so I still have room to adjust all the fixtures. I'm fabbing up the support for the python drive thrust bearing tomorrow.

By 'epoxy potting' the hardware you mean setting the mounts in epoxy? I've seen that done on the last ship I worked on. They had problems with the Wartsila engines wandering around on the rubber mounts putting stress on the gearboxes. I was planning on over drilling holes for the mount screws and redrilling to size. They'll be going into solid white oak beds.



I'm off to check the installation manual for the 4JH-TE. I may have to have some down angle on the engine.

Thanks again. I sure appreciate the help.

Web log updated: https://she-kon.blogspot.ca/2016/06/...ficulties.html
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Old 25-06-2016, 12:40   #1195
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Pretty warm in the ole' boat shed today but I managed to get a little work done.



Fabricated the small bulkhead that'll support the shaft tube. Planned in some adjustment so I can fine tune the driveline angles before I glue anything in place. Will do that when the engine comes back from service and I can set it on the engine beds.

Web log updated: https://she-kon.blogspot.ca/2016/06/lit ... ation.html
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Old 26-06-2016, 11:11   #1196
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Stinky hot in the boat shed today. Managed to put some glass on the opposite side of the shaft tube support.


Also added a 'tail stock' to my engine mockup thingy to sho were the output flange will be.


Hoping that will help visualize how the components come together. It's looking like it'll be a lot tighter than I though and I might have to move the shaft tube support back another inch. Not totally sure but I might run into problems with assembling all the components for the shaft seal and python drive if I only leave an inch of shaft showing.

Just waiting for the shade to hit the backside of the shed so we can do some roof repairs.

Standby...
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Old 27-06-2016, 11:23   #1197
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

I had to assemble the drive train components so that I could see how it's all going to fit into the boat. I was puzzled until I actually saw all the pieces assembled.


I think some people can think in 3D and transferring info from a 2D drawing to the real world is a talent. A talent I don't have. My drafting teacher in college thought I was especially untalented in this regard!

Anywho, got the parts in and it's pretty much clear as mud!

Web log udpated: https://she-kon.blogspot.ca/2016/06/in- ... s-eye.html
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Old 27-06-2016, 12:54   #1198
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

There are a few differences between your set up and what I had to go through.

First, your shaft between the CV joints is really long. I hope that doesn't cause a whipping problem. Mine is only a few inches. The good thing is you have lots of room to work with.

Second, in my case, the strut and shaft were already mounted at a set angle. The rear support bearing had to be mounted, dialed in, to the shaft coupler, which is actually part of the rear bearing. So I made a mounting wood secured to the hull, square to the shaft coupler. Then made a SS plate to mount between the wood and bearing. That way I could Unbolt the plate to work or adjust the bearing. The nice thing is the bearing/coupler is mounted between rubber bushings, allowing for some misalignment and vibration.

Third, once I had the shaft and bearing mounted I built the motor mount woods using the shaft angle to set the woods angle. A handy tool is a welding protractor, which is pretty accurate. I also have a laser level for lining up center lines.

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Old 27-06-2016, 15:08   #1199
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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First, your shaft between the CV joints is really long. I hope that doesn't cause a whipping problem. Mine is only a few inches. The good thing is you have lots of room to work with.
Thanks Del. I've studied and studied your pictures. I've taken a few tips from them that I'll follow. My thrust plate is aluminum. I also have the protractor & laser level. The shaft is 1m long. It came direct from Python and they said it shouldn't encounter any wipping. Time will tell I guess.

Thanks for your help. I do appreciate it.
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Old 27-06-2016, 15:29   #1200
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Yeah! A lot better then the car drive lines from the old days. I just wish the CV joints had a zert fitting to keep'm greased.
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