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Old 14-05-2015, 19:17   #1006
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Originally Posted by Zach View Post
Looking good!

Have you ever tried puttying your tabbing, wet on wet? You can save yourself a lot of sanding and grinding work by filling the weave while it is still wet.

I keep a few different widths of finish cloth tabbing, to lay over the biax tab... and mop up the excess resin with it just by rolling it into the biax.

Then take a 4 inch chip brush and mayonnaise consistency 407 over the top, come back and lay it down slick with a plastic squeegee and blend the plywood 2-3 inches out up to the tabbing in one shot. The finish cloth covers up the biax and covers the weave. Normally 60-80 grit on an orbital dresses it out clean enough to be able to paint in one sanding...

If you've got a bad dart, or bubble, just cut the finish cloth shy of there and don't putty it... Sand out both sides, grind the bad spot... Lay in your cloth and float it with putty.

Another tip, is to come back after your fillets have kicked for 2-3 hours and take an acid brush with some mayonaise consistency made with fast hardener to fill any hollidays, then roll neat resin over the top with a foam 4 inch hot dog roller, once your mixing pot has kicked around the rim. If you get a good pull, you can amine wash it and then use red scotch bright to scuff it off... or 180-220 grit and move right to paint and primer.

I try my best not to grind any more tabbing than I have to...

Cheers,

Zach


Excellent advice.


That's how I'd do it. Almost exactly. Zach always gives fine advice.
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Old 15-05-2015, 06:19   #1007
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Thanks for the input fellas. I'm doing my best to follow what you're saying. The difference being I'm using a few different materials. I don't use West System stuff, way too expensive up here in Canada so I'm sourcing marine epoxy from FLA along with plain wood flour & cabosil for fillers. The marine epoxy is no-blush so I don't have issues with that.

I did work wet on wet this time. The fillet was just to cover the one I laid in there last year with some crappy wood flour. The first layer of tape was 6" x 6 oz biax and that was wetted out with a 4" hot dog roller (24" handle) then a layer of 10" x 17 oz biax also wetted out with the hot dog roller.

I couldn't get in close enough to work it in with a squeegee or I would have put peel ply on it. Nowhere to stand except the thruster tube. I kept sliding back into the bilge so it was one hand for me one for the roller. Gets tiring after awhile. At least now I won't have to worry much about that anymore.

Thanks again, appreciate it.
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Old 22-05-2015, 08:51   #1008
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Boat Shed Crime Scene. Camera catches moment of Boat Builders death.



Web log updated: http://she-kon.blogspot.ca/2015/05/boat ... scene.html
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Old 28-05-2015, 08:14   #1009
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Got a few more seams taped today. Won't be long and I'll be working with my head in the box keel. Not really looking forward to that part but it's gotta be done.



I used the cue-ball fillet thingy again. This time I just laid down a bead of epoxy glue over the old fillets then laid on the tape. I went over the tape with the cue-ball after. It made a nice smooth fillet. Let it set up a bit then epoxied the tape. Seems to have worked pretty well.
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Old 29-05-2015, 11:18   #1010
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

I think summer has finally arrived. I started out at my normal 9'ish and it was a comfy 70 degs F in the shed. By noon it was hovering around 80 F and at 14:00 it was well over 90 F in the shed. I tried to get the entire perimeter taped & epoxied but fell short when the heat got the best of me and the epoxy. I gave up when I started spilling epoxy all over the freaking place.



At least I got about 5 hrs in on the boat today. That's more than has been the norm lately. Felt like I had a lil' more stamina today. Will just keep pushing and get as much done as I can.

Web log updated: http://she-kon.blogspot.ca/2015/05/if-y ... -heat.html
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Old 30-05-2015, 11:43   #1011
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

WOW, can't believe I just read over a thousand posts about the building of this wonderful boat. A journey of love, persistence and craftsman ship. Best of luck over this building season.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum M. Gray Pacific Seacraft 31
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:24   #1012
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

The wife took this picture this morning. Another one of those 'WTF have I gotten myself into?' moments.



I made a real mess in the box keel the other day so I was in there today sanding. PITA!



So as you can see I don't fit in there very well.

Web log updated: M/V She:Kon: Out with the old

Lots more sanding in my future. Standby....
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:23   #1013
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Under intense scrutiny from the Project Manager I was forced to accelerate the program!



Perfect day in the boat shed though. Nice 72 F and slow hardener now! Things moved right along.

Web log updated: http://she-kon.blogspot.ca/2015/06/abso ... t-day.html
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:41   #1014
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Rick,

For sanding what cannot be reached...
Make one of these out of a 2x8 and zip tie the power cord to the stick.

I normally use either a router speed controller, or a router foot pedal with my elbow to control the mini grinder.

I duct tape a piece of PVC pipe to a vacuum hose, and wedge it down stream of where I'm grinding in the hole, so the pile of stuff stays minimal and I can see what I'm doing.

Hitachi makes a grinder that has a side switch that works nicely for this... Eventually they stop after the bearings are shot, but you can man handle the 5 amp version where an 8-10 amp grinder won't bog down.

http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-G12SR3.../dp/B000ULQVCU

Cheers,

Zach
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Old 09-06-2015, 13:29   #1015
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Cool idea Zach! I had something similar klunking around in my head using a broom handle & an old sanding pad. Got looking through my sander collection and remembered I had a sanding pad for my oscillating saw thingy!



I can get about 98% of the area I need with that. Just gotta skuff it up for the next layer going on top. Been working hard at doing everything wet on wet and that's working out pretty well now. I had a large batch of medium speed hardener that made it a bit difficult. I'm not as fast as I used to be.

Whatever's left that needs sanding I do with a scotchbrite pad & some sticky sandpaper stuck to it. Works well.

Thanks for looking in.
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Old 09-06-2015, 15:16   #1016
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Yup...

If medium or fast is all that I have, I switch over to wetting out with a big fuzzy yellow paint roller and do it on a piece of heavy duty plastic over a table top.

I buy split rolls for tabbing so taking 6-8 feet or so off at a time is fairly easy.

Normally just folding it in half, and then half again with a flip back and forth is enough to wet it out. Do two at a time, and carry two at a time to the boat.

Fold up the tab, mop it on and wet out the cloth, pinch the middle and carry it to the boat and unfold it at an arm span plus a foot or so. Carry the roller, run it down the surface to be glassed, set it on a piece of junk plywood... Take both hands and hold it up to the top of the surface to be glassed, get the top line right and immediately take your palms and run down the face to get the top stuck. Take your paint roller and mash it down against the tab. Drop it, air roll it. Do the second piece.

The easiest way is to mix about 2 quarts at a time in a 5 quart bucket. That keeps the resin volume down small enough that it doesn't exotherm in the bucket.

The leftovers wet out the first layer of the next piece, and so long as you continually mix the fresh resin into what is on the tabletop it doesn't kick off until you are done. The roller cover is good for about 5 or so wet outs of two six to 8 foot shots at 85f before it is done. When it is done, knock it off on the frame out the door so when it does go up in smoke you aren't down wind...

Doing that, you want to tape a plastic sheet under your work surface and along the underside of the tab... but it goes almost as fast to do as it is to read. Faster if in direct sunlight...

Double gloves... and periodically, take them off via the sling shot method and replace for a fresh batch.

Cheers,

Zach
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Old 09-06-2015, 16:09   #1017
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zach View Post
Yup...

If medium or fast is all that I have, I switch over to wetting out with a big fuzzy yellow paint roller and do it on a piece of heavy duty plastic over a table top.

I buy split rolls for tabbing so taking 6-8 feet or so off at a time is fairly easy.

Normally just folding it in half, and then half again with a flip back and forth is enough to wet it out. Do two at a time, and carry two at a time to the boat.

Fold up the tab, mop it on and wet out the cloth, pinch the middle and carry it to the boat and unfold it at an arm span plus a foot or so. Carry the roller, run it down the surface to be glassed, set it on a piece of junk plywood... Take both hands and hold it up to the top of the surface to be glassed, get the top line right and immediately take your palms and run down the face to get the top stuck. Take your paint roller and mash it down against the tab. Drop it, air roll it. Do the second piece.

The easiest way is to mix about 2 quarts at a time in a 5 quart bucket. That keeps the resin volume down small enough that it doesn't exotherm in the bucket.

The leftovers wet out the first layer of the next piece, and so long as you continually mix the fresh resin into what is on the tabletop it doesn't kick off until you are done. The roller cover is good for about 5 or so wet outs of two six to 8 foot shots at 85f before it is done. When it is done, knock it off on the frame out the door so when it does go up in smoke you aren't down wind...

Doing that, you want to tape a plastic sheet under your work surface and along the underside of the tab... but it goes almost as fast to do as it is to read. Faster if in direct sunlight...

Double gloves... and periodically, take them off via the sling shot method and replace for a fresh batch.

Cheers,

Zach


Tru dat! Except-


I prefer the cassette method. This is a result of building too many impregnators. Just take the cardboard tube in the center of a roll of glass, and cut it into desired length for the tape at hand. Then wet out the entire layup on the wet out table. It's good up to five plies with slow hardener. Then roll the whole tape up onto the cassette. Push down hard on the cassette while rolling. This will remove much more excess resin and air than a squeegee can. Then take the cassette to the seam and unroll the whole tape onto it, pausing to ensure adhesion as you go. This method is good for very long tapes, like a hull/deck joint. With a bit of extra effort, you can even interleaf the ends where tape intersects tape, for stronger joins and no highs. I often even include the peel ply on the cassette.
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Old 09-06-2015, 17:20   #1018
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

That's a good tip.
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Old 10-06-2015, 05:42   #1019
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Wish I could afford to hire those two guys for a couple weeks!

I might be able to get away with pre-wetting my tapes with slow hardener in 70 deg weather. Anything warmer and I don't think I'd have time to do it. Almost finished this phase of taping, just have the keel to bottom join to do. That should go easier than working head down in the bilge.

Thanks Guys.
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Old 10-06-2015, 06:28   #1020
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Cool Idea Minaret! I have never tried to interleaf on a roll..

Prewetting works faster, than in place because you can force the resin through from both sides as required and keep on moving once enough resin is on the cloth for it to saturate. The dump and roll method of resin distribution... Grin.

Not as big a benefit on flat surfaces, but wetting out a vertical or horizontal makes it go faster to go from the table.

Also, have you tried chilling your resin and hardener? Not so much that it goes full honey or molasses stage. Sometimes a cheap cooler and a bag of ice on the far side makes the difference...
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