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Old 30-05-2014, 15:26   #781
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

I figured out how to correct the 'Fish Eye' effect in video as well as the still photo's you've seen. Problem is it takes forever to do on my laptop. I tried to correct the raw vids but after 20 hrs they were still processing so I nixed it. I apologize for the crappy cinematography. I used the GoPro head mount again. At least you get to see some different angles of the boat.

So long story short here's the vid: http://youtu.be/d8jLhvjlUGY

I have to say I'm pretty happy with the progress. I'm down to very small defects now that need to be addressed. I went down both sides today marking them out and it's not bad. A few lows, a few highs but nothing serious. I'm thinking the sides & transom could be ready for primer by end of next week. I do have a lot to do on the bottom & keel before I start spraying paint on the hull.

Standby.
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:01   #782
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Pretty much finished up the rough fairing on the hull sides & transom today. A few minor spots that need filling but nothing major. I ordered some 3M Dry Guide Coat and will give that a shot later when I get to the finish fairing.

Moved up to the keel to start hogging down that fairing compound. It's kind of hard! Been there for a week or 10 days curing. It gets pretty warm up there and was 95 degs today. Took the starch outta my shorts in about 45 mins so I called it a day.



M/V She:Kon: Movin' on up
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Old 04-06-2014, 13:56   #783
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Had to take a couple days off to deal with some issues. Back at it today though. Tried out the 3M Dry Guide Coat I got. It appears to do what they say it does. Not that I have any idea what I'm doing!



Web Log Updated: M/V She:Kon: Had to take a wee break
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Old 04-06-2014, 19:21   #784
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Originally Posted by knottybuoyz View Post
Had to take a couple days off to deal with some issues. Back at it today though. Tried out the 3M Dry Guide Coat I got. It appears to do what they say it does. Not that I have any idea what I'm doing!



Web Log Updated: M/V She:Kon: Had to take a wee break



Dry guide coat is way too nice for rough fairing. Use it for sanding primer in finer grits for paint prep, or for wet sanding to a finish. Don't waste it rough fairing now, it's not cheap. Use either any automotive lacquer primer in a rattlecan, or a dedicated guide coat like SEM. Dirt cheap and more than sufficient for fairing.


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Old 05-06-2014, 04:39   #785
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Dry guide coat is way too nice for rough fairing. Use it for sanding primer in finer grits for paint prep, or for wet sanding to a finish. Don't waste it rough fairing now, it's not cheap. Use either any automotive lacquer primer in a rattlecan, or a dedicated guide coat like SEM. Dirt cheap and more than sufficient for fairing.
I sorta reached that conclusion myself after about the first half hour. I had to give it a try though. I think I'm making headway, little bit at a time.

Just as an example of how we get screwed up here in Canada the 3M dry guide coat kit (powder & applicator) sells for $88. I got one of e-Bay for $30. As far as I can tell it's just carbon black & a foam pad. I'm gonna get some carbon black from the local chemical store and try it to see if it's similar.
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:17   #786
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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I sorta reached that conclusion myself after about the first half hour. I had to give it a try though. I think I'm making headway, little bit at a time.

Just as an example of how we get screwed up here in Canada the 3M dry guide coat kit (powder & applicator) sells for $88. I got one of e-Bay for $30. As far as I can tell it's just carbon black & a foam pad. I'm gonna get some carbon black from the local chemical store and try it to see if it's similar.



Oh, I've tried. I've tried carbon, bone black, ink powder, etc etc. The key factor for dry guide coat is that while it is extremely fine and will penetrate and mark the most microscopic scratches, it still wipes off clean with solvent. The others don't. This can be important. If you want a cheap guide coat which doesn't wipe clean, use blue steel inspection dye in acetone. Works excellent for primer. A rattlecan is still best for fairing though.
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:46   #787
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Oh, I've tried. I've tried carbon, bone black, ink powder, etc etc. The key factor for dry guide coat is that while it is extremely fine and will penetrate and mark the most microscopic scratches, it still wipes off clean with solvent. The others don't. This can be important. If you want a cheap guide coat which doesn't wipe clean, use blue steel inspection dye in acetone. Works excellent for primer. A rattlecan is still best for fairing though.
Thanks. Got it. I'm still learning! I do appreciate your experienced input.
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Old 05-06-2014, 20:59   #788
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Thanks. Got it. I'm still learning! I do appreciate your experienced input.



Anytime. Believe me, I understand the impulse. The first few times you use it, you're like "damn this works great, but why am I paying so much for something so simple?". It's not till you try to replicate it that you realize it's not that simple, and 3M has actually had the top scientists developing this stuff as usual.
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Old 06-06-2014, 03:31   #789
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Anytime. Believe me, I understand the impulse. The first few times you use it, you're like "damn this works great, but why am I paying so much for something so simple?". It's not till you try to replicate it that you realize it's not that simple, and 3M has actually had the top scientists developing this stuff as usual.
Gotcha. Guess since I retired I got stingy! The wife says I'm so tight I can squeeze a nickle and make the beaver ****!



We're building totally out of pocket and refuse to borrow $$$ to finish the boat. Cash flow is about half of what it was when I was working so resupplying consumables takes a bit longer nowadays.

We pre-purchased a lot of the hardware & equipment before I retired. What we're missing in that dept is probably under $10K, fridge, air conditioner, radio's, batteries etc.

This fairing stuff has been the toughest job so far. I thought laminating the bottom panels & keel was tough! Hah! Wish I could pay some pro's to do it but that's not in the budget. Nobody's going to do it for me so I'll have to tough it out.

Thanks for the help keeping me on track.
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:51   #790
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

Inside the belly of the beast!

Looking forward.


Looking aft.


Feeling the affects of getting older. This suks! Web Log Updated: http://she-kon.blogspot.ca/2014/06/feel ... ts-of.html
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:25   #791
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

I think I'm just chasing my tail and making it worse because I don't know when to quit.

Think I have one side that might be ready for high build primer.
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:34   #792
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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I think I'm just chasing my tail and making it worse because I don't know when to quit.

Think I have one side that might be ready for high build primer.



Probably so. Good fairing is a skill it takes decades to perfect, you are learning this now. Just remember, this is supposed to be the easy part. The decks and house will be much, much worse. Don't spend too much time here. In boatbuilding school, we were taught that building the hull and decks is generally about 10% of the labor involved in completion. You have a long way to go, don't get too anal. You'll have a much better idea where you stand after primer, although I personally won't use hi build.
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:39   #793
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Probably so. Good fairing is a skill it takes decades to perfect, you are learning this now. Just remember, this is supposed to be the easy part. The decks and house will be much, much worse.
Oh Jeezuz.

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Don't spend too much time here. In boatbuilding school, we were taught that building the hull and decks is generally about 10% of the labor involved in completion. You have a long way to go, don't get too anal. You'll have a much better idea where you stand after primer, although I personally won't use hi build.
I wish I had the equipment and talent to use something else. Of course cost is the other factor. I think I'll be limited to a paint tray and roller. I have 3 gallons of a high build barrier coat primer. That should be enough to do my bottoms. What do you suggest for the sides?

I guess if it turns out like crap I can always pay someone down the road to redo it.
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:53   #794
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Oh Jeezuz.


I wish I had the equipment and talent to use something else. Of course cost is the other factor. I think I'll be limited to a paint tray and roller. I have 3 gallons of a high build barrier coat primer. That should be enough to do my bottoms. What do you suggest for the sides?

I guess if it turns out like crap I can always pay someone down the road to redo it.


Hmmm. I know cost is a factor here, but I would definitely recommend spraying your primer. If you roll it, you will have to sand off much more per coat to get the roller stipple out. You will waste a lot of primer like that. If you have air, buy a cheap gravity feed gun. It will pay for itself in primer saved, let alone hours of sanding saved. For you, I would recommend a DeVilbiss gravity feed kit. If you have air, how many CFM are you putting out?



Amazon.com: DeVilbiss 802343 Auto Painting/Priming Kit: Automotive




If you really want to hi build your topsides, I would use Awlquick, if I was going to hi build. But I'm the wrong guy to ask if you're trying to save a buck or two...
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Old 07-06-2014, 09:39   #795
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Re: And So it Begins . . . Knottybuoyz' New Project

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Hmmm. I know cost is a factor here, but I would definitely recommend spraying your primer. If you roll it, you will have to sand off much more per coat to get the roller stipple out. You will waste a lot of primer like that. If you have air, buy a cheap gravity feed gun. It will pay for itself in primer saved, let alone hours of sanding saved. For you, I would recommend a DeVilbiss gravity feed kit. If you have air, how many CFM are you putting out?
I was considering one of these for just primer.

Pro 2 0mm HVLP Gravity Feed Spray Gun Air Regulator Auto Paint Primer Prime Car | eBay

I have three other gravity fed HVLP sprayers but they're all too small, tanks and nozzles. They should be fine for other painting.

My compressor puts out 6.5 cu/ft @90 PSI, 30 gallon tank.

I do need a bigger air dryer on my compressor.

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If you really want to hi build your topsides, I would use Awlquick, if I was going to hi build. But I'm the wrong guy to ask if you're trying to save a buck or two...
I get that. Hard for a Pro to dumb himself down! At least to my level. I do appreciate the try though. I gotta go with what I have for the outside of the hull. I can plan to switch to Alquick and their topside paints when I get to that point. I just have to plan ahead. I know they're better products and that's illustrated in the price. I'm just a little afraid of totally screwing it up and having to spend even more. *sigh*
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