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Old 30-01-2007, 12:42   #31
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Why dont you just kill that small amount of rust on the anchor and coat with some cold galv. The anchor rust just looks like a small amount of surface rust. It is going to outlive us. It wont affect any holding power.
If you were worried about the chain, you could chop the few metres of chain that you are unhappy about , buy a joiner (they are very strong) and add the amount of new chain you chopped off and then end for end it.
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Old 30-01-2007, 14:33   #32
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Sean,
It looks fine to me as well. IMHO, thee money would be better spent on WW&S.
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Old 30-01-2007, 14:43   #33
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WW&S? Sorry... my mind is drawing a blank. Little help on that?
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Old 30-01-2007, 14:52   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssullivan
WW&S? Sorry... my mind is drawing a blank. Little help on that?
Wine, women and song.

If you're a teetotaler, Wild women and song?
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Old 30-01-2007, 15:20   #35
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I agree Sean, end for end it if you like, replace the shackle if so inclined, and a bit of cold galv or lanocote.

Anchoring in reefy waters your anchor look's that bad after a week, and I went 4 years before a regalv last time.

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Old 30-01-2007, 15:21   #36
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As others have noted, you can refurbish the chain yourself.
Hit any serious corrosion with a sidewinder, then wash the loose stuff off, dry it, and finally soak it in a bucket of "Ospho" (phosphoric acid).
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Old 30-01-2007, 16:37   #37
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Well, the results are in and it looks like I'm just too anal, even for this board - and we're a particular bunch!
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Old 30-01-2007, 18:53   #38
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What about that shakel Sean, I see on Monel/stainless wire wraped around it to keep it from backing out?
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Old 30-01-2007, 22:09   #39
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I haven't read all the replies so may be repeating but for my money the best option for any anchor is sand blast and zinc arc spray. It is far more durable than galvanising and precludes the need to melt all the lead out and then refill. Just had my 35lb CQR done for NZ$80. This process is no good for chain though.
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Old 31-01-2007, 05:22   #40
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What about that shakel Sean, I see on Monel/stainless wire wraped around it to keep it from backing out?
It was taken off already so I could back out the pin. Ironic that you mention this, since backing out the pin was the problem I had when first posting this thread! ha ha ha!!

It won't budge!

I have to cut the shackle loose.
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Old 31-01-2007, 06:55   #41
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Sean
i missed that!haha, I wondered why no one had mentioned it before , I suppose I should have started in the beginning! I think those shakels all seize up after being in the water a wile,
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Old 03-02-2007, 13:00   #42
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Try heating

I agree that your tackle looks too good to worry about.
I had my CQR galvanised a few times. Never a suspicion of the hinge welding with the zinc.

If you really want to destroy the shackle use a rotary power cutter. (use goggles!) Much easier than a hack saw.

But even easier is applying heat (blow torch) and then long enough levers to hold the U part and the pin. Your shackle looks new. You just tightened it a lot when you put it there.

I'll see if I can raise the steam to take a picture of my chain for you. It will make you feel better.

Still on the subject of shackles I use the biggest stainless that will fit.
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Old 03-02-2007, 13:05   #43
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Phosphoric acid

Quote:
Originally Posted by GordMay
As others have noted, you can refurbish the chain yourself.
Hit any serious corrosion with a sidewinder, then wash the loose stuff off, dry it, and finally soak it in a bucket of "Ospho" (phosphoric acid).
How does this work Gord?
Do you need further treatment after the phosphoric?
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Old 03-02-2007, 14:56   #44
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Phosphoric Acid has the unique property of dissolving Iron Oxide (rust) quickly, converting it to Iron Phosphate (a firmly adhering, but thin, protective coating), while etching iron very slowly.
It's a simple, cheap, short-term solution. I "parkerized" my mild steel anchors and rodes annually.
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Old 03-02-2007, 17:32   #45
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Still on the subject of shackles I use the biggest stainless that will fit.


I was under the impression that S/S shackles are a big no no for anchoring as they snap/break instead of stretcing like mild steel does.

I'm sure Gord has more info than me.

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