Am I a fool to try and paint my top sides myself

[Tatheelrod22]

I ll try and be brief. Two years ago I bought a Herreschoff Eagle I've been restoring. I'm a classic boat lover and was very much attracted to how much wood and bronze I can keep attractive. Since getting the boat I have been dissapointed in the topside paint job done at some point before I bought her. Sadly the prior owner did a terrible job of prepping some starboard spots that had surely scraped against a dock for a time. If there ever was a boat that shows the truth of " the final result is tied closely to proper prep work" then ths is it.
The Eagle is only 22 ft without a ton of freeboard. I plan to keep her in a slip at a local lake, and suspect that if I launch her with all the work I've done but with this embarassing paint job I will regret it.. I'm almost through with a project of stripping treating priming and applying three coats of interlux bright side (1 part enamel) to the spars, and I admit I was intimidated using new material on a new surface (aluminum), which I have never done before, but it looks great. I'm starting to think I can possibly prep and paint the topsides to a satisfactory level if I follow directions and take my time. Thank God for You Tube!

My questions are would I need anything other than good lighting, Proper safety attire? I have multiple sanders and can surely load up on all the paper I need. No glass punctures, just quite a few painted over and poorly prepped scrapes. From 20 feet the hi gloss black hull looks great. From 5 feet you want to cry. Someone told me not only to paint but even to prep I'll need an air compressor and misc attachments. I'm not picking up on that with my research at all, and if I can get the smooth finish on the hull that I have on the spars, I'll have no problem with rolling then tipping with a brush immediately. It seems good high quality product applied to a properly prepped surface IN THE RIGHT conditions will give satisfactory results. Am I right or naive? Also, although very pleased with Interlux products thus far if someone were to say " I've rolled and tipped my boat and the best and most forgiving produce is........... , I'm Open to that.

Thanks in advance!

[oldragbaggers]

We have painted at least 5 boat hulls with Brightsides using the roll and tip method (2 people working together, one rolling and one tipping). One of the boats was a 38' Cabo Rico. All turned out beautiful and we often got comments from people who thought it was a spray job. It's a good product, and with proper prep and careful application in the right conditions, as you said, it should be great. I will add one disclaimer though....all our hulls were white. I'm sure that could make some difference as I know imperfections do not show up as easily with white as they would with black. Also, be very careful about painting too late on cool afternoon/evenings. If the dew settles on it too soon it will dull. We learned this the hard way. If you're doing the painting indoors this would not be an issue.

[Tatheelrod22]

Thanks would probably paint indoors. Question. The bottom and boot stripe look great. If I take my time and again, use the proper materials do you think I can mask those off properly?

Probably same situation would apply but if I do this I'll probably go with a. Deep Royal Blue instead of Black.

[gonesail]

i have seen roll and tip total disasters. i have also seen spray paint done by pros that looked like a mirror. you can probably do something in between that is acceptable. sandpaper is your friend. get the best brush and paint money can buy.

[darylat8750]

You are right about the prep being the BIG THING. I didn't have the courage to try a dark color so I stuck with white. I painted my top sides and fly bridge last year with Brightside. This year I replaced a window and resealed the others in the house and that will get done this fall. I sanded through about 3 life times last summer. Fill and sand, fill and sand. I wore out 2 cheap Harbor Freight orbital sanders. I have a friend that is good with a roller. He rolled and I tipped. I don't see how one guy could do the large areas by him self as it would be very hard to move fast enough to keep the wet edge. We were outside and perhaps under cover it would work better. I told my wife before I started that it would be a good 30 foot paint job but it turned out to be a good 2 foot job. I'm very happy with the Brightside paint. I think it is worth the effort.....

The taping should be easy if you are not trying to change the position of the stripe. The good masking tape is worth the extra money. My memory is failing me but I think it was Gorilla tape Green? 3M has some good tape also. Don't leave it on for more than a few days. Somebody help with the best masking tape?

[MarkSF]

If you spray two-part polyurethane paint (Perfection) without the proper safety equipment, you could die, as simple as that. Proper recommended safety equipment is an air-fed mask, and a full suit with no exposed skin.

That's as good a reason to roll and tip, as any.

I don't think Brightside is as nasty, but I would certainly be very cautious.

[Dulcesuenos]

Not sure if I read it correctly but are panning to roll and tip 1 part Brightsides enamel? If so I wouldn't waste the time. I'd spend more money and do a 2 art or even awlgrip that would look amazing. My opinion Brightside 1 part sucks for anything other than have g a quick easy to touch up as it's not going to hold up well.

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[thomm225]

Used roll and tip on my top sides. I knew even if I screwed it up at least I'd have some paint on the hull. It was my first try.

I used Easypoxy and did it alone. Be careful not to use too much paint especially on the second coat.

The prep took months as I hand to sand the bottom and completely remove (by sanding) all the old white paint off the topside hull. Under the old white paint was 40 year old beige gelcoat.

Cost:
Paint was $85.00 plus some sanding disks.....

[HappyMdRSailor]

You can do it !

You don't need a compressor, although it helps... But then you're into air DA's and long boards that will cause you to leave them in the toolbox in between jobs instead of decent stuff you simply plug in...

Spend the money on at LEAST one good orbital... If you've got helpers, additional $50 units are great to have...

Be a fool with the rest of us... You might just be a happy fool...

PS not far from ya Suth'n brutha!

[Delancey]

Originally Posted by Dulcesuenos

Not sure if I read it correctly but are panning to roll and tip 1 part Brightsides enamel? If so I wouldn't waste the time. I'd spend more money and do a 2 art or even awlgrip that would look amazing. My opinion Brightside 1 part sucks for anything other than have g a quick easy to touch up as it's not going to hold up well.

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

^^^^^what he said^^^^^

Not really much of a learning curve from a one part to a two part but big difference in the quality and durability of the finished product. Also, definitely a two guy job if for nothing else the second guy is a spotter to keep and eye out for hangers and holidays.

[anacapaisland42]

We use Rustoleum for everything above the waterline, rolls on easy, many colours to choose, sticks well to fiberglass/aluminum/whatever.
Scratches patch easily, has lasted 20 years on the mast and looks like new except where halyards have slapped, they also wore off the anodizing.
Bill


Also, although very pleased with Interlux products thus far if someone were to say " I've rolled and tipped my boat and the best and most forgiving produce is........... , I'm Open to that.

Thanks in advance![/QUOTE]

[deblen]

Review some of this guy's videos-there are several:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJ_T...nIFAkbLpVyt5Jw

...and go for it.

/ Len

[chris95040]

Originally Posted by Delancey

^^^^^what he said^^^^^

Not really much of a learning curve from a one part to a two part but big difference in the quality and durability of the finished product. Also, definitely a two guy job if for nothing else the second guy is a spotter to keep and eye out for hangers and holidays.

I agree except about the learning curve. Two part paints are a LOT harder to get right. I've done an awful lot of painting, and it took me years to get 2 part poly's took look right when roll + tipped.

Brightsides 1 part is much, much more user friendly. It can handle you dorking with it for several minutes (which is a terrible habit, btw) It can look gorgeous, but you are right, its also not very durable.

Whatever you do, learn to apply the right amount, work it once with the dry brush, and move on. With 2 part paints, you'll never get it to look better than it does at that moment, so MOVE ON. And the surface should be cool to the touch, not warm in the sunlight. Otherwise the solvents flash off before the paint can level out.

One final point: While working on the boat, you are spending a lot of time with a very unusual, close perspective on the hull. When she's in the water with all her gear, a lot of those flaws staring you in the face right now are not even noticeable. I think I'd save it for another time.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by anacapaisland42

We use Rustoleum for everything above the waterline, rolls on easy, many colours to choose, sticks well to fiberglass/aluminum/whatever.
Scratches patch easily, has lasted 20 years on the mast and looks like new except where halyards have slapped, they also wore off the anodizing.
Bill


Also, although very pleased with Interlux products thus far if someone were to say " I've rolled and tipped my boat and the best and most forgiving produce is........... , I'm Open to that.

Thanks in advance!

[/QUOTE]

That's interesting, I like Rustoleum much better than Brightsides myself. Actually I hate Brightsides. Although I've never painted a whole boat with either, just parts or areas, mostly inside the boat.

[Mithril Bham]

Look into wire tape for some of the more detailed masking especially around things like cleats. Temperature is crucial. If you can control your temp and humidity inside it helps but not always practical. Prep is everything.