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Old 11-11-2010, 19:28   #31
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Something's a little strange - why would you remove a cutlass bearing BEFORE removing the prop shaft? The only reason I can conceive of is that the shaft is aligned with the rudder and cannot be slid out without hitting the rudder. Putting side loads on the P-strut to get the prop shaft out is not a good idea.
- - Drop the rudder out and then remove the prop shaft. Then use the example of pipe/threaded rod/washers or better yet a large socket to pull the cutlass out of the P-strut.
The piece of pipe should be longer than the cutlass bearing; the I.D. needs to be just slightly bigger than the O.D. of the Cutlass bearing. You can borrow a large socket that has an O.D. the hair smaller then the O.D. of the cutlass bearing. The threaded rod acts as the mechanism to withdraw the cutlass.
- - If you are removing a cutlass bearing - they are cheap - replace it with a new one.
- - The cost of straightening a prop shaft will most probably equal or exceed the cost of buying a new prop shaft so replace it too. If you have ever tried to straighten a rod or tube or fat solid wire you will know that it really cannot be done very well. You will forever have vibration which will both wear the new cutlass bearing(s); probably loosen the P-Strut from the hull; and do a number on your stuffing box and maybe even the transmission bearings. Risking all that just to save a few bucks - maybe - on not buying a new prop shaft seems less than desirable.
- - Do the job right and you will not have to worry about that system again until some new bozo tries to lift your boat the wrong way.
- - Dropping the rudder to get access to the prop shaft also allows you to check and replace the rudder bearings and seals and repair any wear or damage incurred to that system over the years. Also you can inspect the top of the rudder to see if any water is leaking into the rudder. Then clean and put new sealant around the rudder shaft/rudder body joint.
- - Take the opportunity now to renew all the parts in these systems so you don't have to haul the boat some other time for one of these items.

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Old 11-11-2010, 21:12   #32
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Here are the set screws for crushing the bearings after splitting them. Even if the bearing were glued in it would make since to still spit the bearing. Where would one find this heat sensitive glue? Does it come with the bearing?

Some do have to pull the rudder to the get the shaft out/in. I use to until I made a modification. See pictures. Now I just break away the fairing and unbolt the strut lower half and pull the shaft. Then re-fair and glass over to a smooth finish.

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Old 14-11-2010, 17:09   #33
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thanks,, as usual for the thoughts. i sure hope i don't have to take off the p bracket and according ot the mfgr certainly should n't have to. on this boat there is a new style c bearing set in to the p strut with a heat setting adhesive and set screws. (google maritex and they will tell you all about them.) those bearings don't need a prop puller, they are clearance fit not interference fit. that's what this boat has...

Q:'...Something's a little strange - why would you remove a cutlass bearing BEFORE removing the prop shaft?"
A: this advice is per the manufacturer , who installs the cutless bearing using a heat-sensitive adhesive . heating the adhesive allows the c b to slide out easily without a puller after 2 certain setscrews are loosened. having the c bearing out gives a little more ease in removing the prop, so they say.. without needing to drop the rudder which would be a bear of a job for me working alone with only my australian shepherd for help..
well the prop shaft has to come off to be straightened. i'll try getting it off without getting the c b out .. we'll see... i have until haulin, may 15 2011 to figure this out..

however i must say that the internet advice that "a flexofold propeller is held on 'by one nut..' " is COMPLETELY WRONG. nearly the whole prop, per flexofold, must be disassembled. some complicated assembly -- but not disasembly -- instructions are on the internet and are unreadable on a iphone. now that's modern technology, searching the internet as darkness falls for how to take your prop off, because you were so stupid to believe the internet advice on how to remove the flexofold. even the dog was laughing at that one. well i'm glad it's not a one - nut removal job. (otherwise a thief could steal a flexofold by removing one nut. ) (now that would be a bad design...) the FoF glue is a heat bond so you need a heat gun to heat each joint before trying to dissemble it. the spouse's hairdrier swiped out of the van did not cut it. i found this out at 5:30 friday, as dusk was failling. so went to a mexican restaurant to contemplate my various removal issues over a dos equis. or 2. needless to s ay both the cb and the prop are still on the p shaft....back next week end if it's not 30 degrees and 68 mph winds as it was on oct 30..

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