Adhering Lexan to Wood

[sassythesailor]

What is the best adhesive for wood to lexan? My cabin top hatch, which lies flat, has a wood frame with a piece of lexan that allows light in. After 22 years it is separating. I plan to completely separate the lexan from the wood, clean up the points of attachment and re-adhere. What is the best adhesive?

Thanks,

[mbianka]

Not sure if it will work for what you need. But, I dropped some West System G Flex epoxy on a piece of scrap plexiglass and find it holds on pretty strong. Should do the same with lexan and wood. But check with West System (Gourgeon Bros).

[HopCar]

I'd use Boatlife Life Seal. It will adhere to both wood and Lexan and it won't harm Lexan.

BoatLife LifeSeal Clear Cartridge - 1169

[Charlie]

I'd go for something that has a lot of elasticity like Dow corning 795. Lexan is not stable in size in different temperatures.

[delmarrey]

I'd seal the wood in epoxy and use butyl tape, then seal that in with a polyurethane.
My windows have been held in with just the above for 5 seasons w/o one drop of water passing thru. Butyl tape reseals itself if it get stressed.

.

[jrd22]

I second the DC 795. Used it on the pilothouse windows and it adheres great to both the Lexan and the teak.

[sdowney717]

Henry 430 tile adhesive is worth considering.
It also can seal gaps. Thicker areas take longer to dry all the way threw.
That stuff stays very flexible, if you break the bond by forcing it apart, it resticks back together. And the bond is strong but can be worked open without destroying the glued items. Dries yellow opaque.

I also found when dried, the stuff does not redissolve in water.
I have an old glue tub with cured glue which I filled with water and after 2 months underwater it still has not redissolved.

It is like stretch sticky gum when cured. Similar to contact cement but not as strong or as permanent. And the glue is cheap. You can use a finger to spread it. Before it dries cleans up with water. Afterwards needs a solvent.

The other stuff I use is DAP ALEX Ultra 230 or Dynaflex 230. Nice, easy to use, can seal glass windows and is paintable. Cleans up with water. Makes a medium rubber like adhesive caulk.

http://www.dap.com/product_details.a...173&SubcatID=3

This one has reported to be not growing mildew like the Dynaflex

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, sassythesailor.

See also ➥ http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ing-24956.html

And ➥ http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...hes-56995.html

And ➥ http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ype-37069.html

And ➥ http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ler-48607.html

And ➥ http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ing-32334.html

[sneuman]

Originally Posted by delmarrey

I'd seal the wood in epoxy and use butyl tape, then seal that in with a polyurethane.
My windows have been held in with just the above for 5 seasons w/o one drop of water passing thru. Butyl tape reseals itself if it get stressed.

.

where does one get butyl tape?

[AnchorageGuy]

The Dow 795 is what we have used for years and it is the best product for any kind of Plexi. IMO. Never use epoxy or any adhesive or cleaner that contains a solvent. I would only use butyl tape where fasteners are used to secure whatever you are bedding. Chuck

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by sneuman

where does one get butyl tape?

Jamestown Marine. It adheres to everything.>>> 3M Weatherban Sealant Tape 5354

[sdowney717]

Gave up on the 3M black sticky seal and have used Henry 430.

I tried to seal my front windows with that 3M ribbon black sticky stuff.
It failed after one year.
The windows are tempered glass and lay at an angle in a rabbited epoxied wood channel.
The window sits flat and smoothly and has sufficient edge all round.

the mode of failure was the black goo ribbon pulled free on the top edge, remaining stuck to the glass but disconnected from the epoxy frame. epoxy surface remained intact.
If you will notice, this caulk is very very sticky and yet quite stiff.
If you want to pull it free from some surface, simply yank it off and since it sticks better to itself, it will pull clean as you keep working it, yank and pull etc...

I think over time the wooden frames move at different rates than the glass and so it pulled free. A layer of dust had slowly stuck onto the goo preventing you from simply pushing the window harder back down to reseal. Being so stiff it wont move anyway.

The HENRY 430 I have had on about 3 months and is working. The gum that forms when this dries is softer and more forgiving of movement plus its tan not black.

I did 3 forward salon windows with the black 3M. One failed miserably, the center window has a small leak from the top, the other window seems to be leak free.

I only redid the really bad leaker and so far think it much better seal.
With the 430, you got to smear it on the frame with a finger to thick coat, let it dry a little, then put window in place. Then I filled in the groove between window and frame. This will dry slowly and need refilling as it does shrink. What I dont know is how well this will hold up to the UV sunlight over many years. I plan to put some paint on top of the goo.

[Seahunter]

Sikaflex 291.

[sdowney717]

Cleans up with water and a sponge but when dried takes a solvent.

Cleaned up off the glass real easy with a razor blade and water.
Easy to just add more sealer even after it dries.

Here is my forward hatch with a plexiglass window I just rebeded using Henry 430

[MacG]

Sikaflex 292 as per Seahunter or Sikabond AT. The latter has higher specs.

It is one of the highest rep product in the Dutch Marine Industry and building industry.