A question of steel boat painting

[anglooff]

I am beginning to implement some upgrades and I need some advice on painting above the waterline. Loon Song is steel…She was sand blasted in 1993 and her original system was zinc primer- 3 x two part epoxy and 2 x Polyutherane. (All International paint co. products) and generally has been well maintained inside and out. The deck painting however is overdue some work.

My thoughts are to bring it up a level and in a few years sand blast and start again. Therefore my questions are…..

1. Does it matter if I decide to use a different company’s products on existing system. Here in Venezuela the company known as Sherwin Williams was taken over, with existing staff and technology a few years ago. SW supply the US navy, cruise ships, oil rigs with Marine Epoxy the renamed company VP standards are reputed to be similar. It isn’t that difficult to obtain international paint Co. products, although at a premium price. However SW designed special epoxy and paints for the US navy and both the price and ease of availability would be advantageous if no inherent problem I have overlooked exists. I figure that if it doesn’t work well then I can solve/correct it later. Where am I going wrong
2. The last owner was going to add sand to the epoxy (flush deck) as a non slip solution. What are your views as to its benefit? What is the best ratio? What would be a better option.
3. Would you finish the deck with 2x Polyutherane finish paint or would you suggest a better combination.


Thanks in advance

Alan

[Alan Wheeler]

No.1...No it doesn't matter using a different manufacturers product. The rules are simple.
You can use a two pot over two pot
You can use a one pot over two pot
You must NEVER use a two pot over one pot.

No.2....Personly I hate sand in paint, or any any of those additive particles in paint to create non-slip. I love the new rubberised non-slip paints now available. Easy to apply, water clean up and very durable. When it does finaly need a recoat, you just wash and recoat.

No.3....Polyurathane is about the best. It is hard wearing and stands up well to the environment. It has good flex. Single pot polys are easy to apply. Two pots are the hardest wearing. AltexDevoe have a brushable twopot poly which makes the application of these paints easier and much safer. Sprayign two pots is very dangerouse without the right safety gear and breathing gear.

[cooper]

Some yards wont let you spray (use) polyu if it contains isocyanates....check before you buy. On a steel boat, it is worth thinking about your "touch up system" The inveitable knocks will create rust bleeds that will beg you to paint them. Not because your boat is going to fall apart, it just dosnt look good. Multy product finishes mean that you will have to have the same to touch up, and may have to sand and feather back to bare metal to build from epoxy back to poly. (you dont want top coat poly on bare steel).
Sieved garnet works well as an anti slip additive, it is used as a sand blasting media. Sprinkle on liberly to wet, masked areas, gebtly broom off when dry and recoat over the top.

[anglooff]

Thank you gentlemen. I shall try and post two photos, and as you will see the general condition is good. The last owner…. If I hadn’t bought… was geared to painting the deck. He had it for three years and apart from anti fouling each year, just cleaned and polished the above water line. However the previous 23 years the owners ( I am happy to state) were punctilious regarding a regular painting/ maintenance regime and always ensured 5 to 6 coats for good protection. (if the photos are viewable you can see).

Therefore I feel confident that the information I posted was accurate. IE 3 coats two part epoxy and 2 coats Polyurethane. The boatyard here in Venezuela, where I have the boat on the hard, are licensed experts in below waterline application. That’s there only expertise. I am confident that they will do a good job. I cannot find a similar skill available for above waterline.

Therefore I thought to do the deck myself with semi skilled labour. My thoughts were to lightly sand the existing paint and put two coats epoxy and either Finish or Alan’s rubberized paint.

This being the case what would you suggest as to combination ? Equally, How important is it to lay epoxy on epoxy… not Polyurethane. IE How does one know/ recognize that one is in the correct layer… if its of major importance.

Finally, there are a few above waterline dinks. The metal is silver although naturally over the last few months, while waiting the change of ownership, a little rust has accumulated. I felt that I could clean, then lay zinc primer, epoxy and finish in the same combination, Cooper’s comment as to the same product being very important…if correct… then I will use only “International Paints” products. They are available here. Your further thoughts would be greatly appreciated especially the most effective combination.

Best regards

Alan

PS My photos are too large I shall find a way eventually

[Alan Wheeler]

I think the manufacturer is envelon ?? but here is some info on the product.
Tredgrip

[Kuapa'a]

You'll find quite a bit of enthusiastic support for a product called 'DuraBak', a rubberized non-skid deck paint. Used a lot in the commercial tug/fishing industries because it holds up very well, it's not very expensive, and it's very kind to bare skin (knees, feet, etc.). Yachties seem to be just catching on to it.

Google their website... nice people to deal with, and they'll send you samples of colors available., etc.

Just MHO, but I quit using kosher salt, blasting sand, and everything else after I discovered their product. (And having worked Merchant Marine for a while, they'd have kept using crushed walnut shells if it was any safer or cheaper).

Good luck to you whichever course you choose.

John K.

[cooper]

Hi Alan (anglooff), just as a clarification I didnt mean differant brand names, I meant differant paint types. As Alan W. said there is an order that you can lay paints over one another. If you have a scratch and it penatrates the polyurethene but does not go all the way through to steel then you can recoat with poly. However if you go through to steel then you need to feather back, paint with a primer (epoxy), high build coat (epoxy) and then top coat (polyurethene). By the way Zinc rich primers are not nessesarily the only way to go. These days two part epoxys with high aluminium solids are being used in industrial aplications. That is because they are "surface tolerant". This means that they can still provide good protection even if the surface preperation is not perfect. (Think oil rig) That is not to say you shouldnt always aim for the best possible preperation. As an old shipwright said to me " dont believe the crap mate, the only thing that stops a boat from sinking is paint" !!