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AKA-None · 15-06-2019, 16:04

If I ever find the person who thought this combination was the proper way to install a through hull and valve then I think I’m going to need an attorney. Just spent 3 hours with a dremel cutting the nut off after spending who knows how much time with a heat gun getting the old valve off.

Sheesh people.

Ok I almost feel better now. No wait no I don’t.

wingless · 15-06-2019, 16:12

The BEST usage of 5200 is on someone else's boat.

Spot · 15-06-2019, 17:02

Sounds like a miserable situation. Did laying waste to everything with a Sawzall come to mind? What's next?

john61ct · 15-06-2019, 17:35

cannon, shotgun?

taxwizz · 16-06-2019, 08:12

Dynamite ?

I also found this article on 5200 solvents.

https://www.boatingmag.com/marine-so...removing-5200/

jewt · 16-06-2019, 09:34

I had to remove both teak backed rub rail from my '89 Morgan 44 last fall after damage from Flo and tried to use the debond. Bought two can through amazon and tried to use it as advertised. BIG waste of money and time, would not even soften the 5200. Ended up hiring the boat yard crew to sand the teak and 5200 off both sides in order to replace the rub rails. Have discovered that Morgan/Catalina used 5200 a lot. Cutting, and the application of heat , is the best way to get it off. I would advise anyone NOT to use 5200 on anything that may have to be removed in the future.

jewt

S/V Bifrost 8
New Bern, NC

Cheechako · 16-06-2019, 10:03

"Wont come off, wont debond, holds fast, cant get it apart" .... all describe why I use 5200 most everywhere....!

stormalong · 16-06-2019, 12:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako

"Wont come off, wont debond, holds fast, cant get it apart" .... all describe why I use 5200 most everywhere....!

I agree entirely. Better to have to work to get it off than to have it come off when you don't want it to.

HopCar · 16-06-2019, 12:24

What a bunch of wimps! Real men, like Cheechako and Stormalong, use 5200. ��

thinwater · 16-06-2019, 13:13

I feel you, but some of this may be the result of using the wrong tools.

An angle grinder would have taken the nut off in just a few minutes, working slowly and carefully. Dremels are for craft and tiny work, not HD stuff. Using a Dremel on a through hull is like cutting down a tree with coping saw; you need a chain saw for that.
Using the correct remover, such as Debond, will make 5200 far more compliant. Follow the instructions.
A heat gun is for heat shrink and stickers. A torch is for getting heavy things hot.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/iss...0_12286-1.html

Mr B · 16-06-2019, 14:19

Thats nice to know, I just put my depth sounder and water intake into my hulls with 5200 and Im happy that they wont come out or leak,,
I dont think I will be taking them out in the foreseeable future,
A very sharp knife got the 5200 off my depth sounder and centreboard bolts, It took time, But eventually I got it off,

AKA-None · 16-06-2019, 18:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spot

Sounds like a miserable situation. Did laying waste to everything with a Sawzall come to mind? What's next?

Yes it came very close but I didn’t give up and never surrendered. Hours later I had it apart.

AKA-None · 16-06-2019, 18:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by thinwater

I feel you, but some of this may be the result of using the wrong tools.

An angle grinder would have taken the nut off in just a few minutes, working slowly and carefully. Dremels are for craft and tiny work, not HD stuff. Using a Dremel on a through hull is like cutting down a tree with coping saw; you need a chain saw for that.
Using the correct remover, such as Debond, will make 5200 far more compliant. Follow the instructions.
A heat gun is for heat shrink and stickers. A torch is for getting heavy things hot.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/iss...0_12286-1.html

No room for an angle grinder and to close to fuel for fire. I did save the backing plate and through hull intact.