40 ft steel rebuild-A chance of a lifetime- or a lifetime of chance ??

[cooper]

Hi
Have just been talking to someone today about blast prices in NSW $8000 !! They have decided to do it themselves. We have calculated that they should be able to do it for less than $4000.Your prices for garnet and hire are about the same. Remember fuel...you will go through a few hundred litres. All safety precautions have to be taken. Dont expect to hang onto the blast nozzel for extended periods, its just to tiring. Make sure that you either have a remote fast shut down on the compressor to pot valve or someone sitting on it for you. REMEMBER letting go the blast nozzel is not an option !! A good paint build of a serious 2 part marine epoxy primer and top coat, put on well will last for many years without any problems. Epoxy is brittle so protection of areas that are likely to get knocked is a good idea. (Thick rubber mats in the anchor locker for an example)

The paint system question is an interesting one. I chose a high quality (and now expensive) industrial system. Others have gone for a higher quality blast and a zinc rich primer first. Ideally you do both. I know of boats that use house hold paints only and touch up regularly.

The consensus seems to be that. 1. Perfect blast. 2. Zinc rich epoxy primer immediately. 3. High build epoxy primer. then...
Top sides 2 part polyurethane. Good flex excellent uv resistance good wear.
Below decks another coat of epoxy primer or epoxy top coat. Not exposed to uv so same system makes easier to touch up.
Below water line another coat of primer plus a vinyl barrier coat and then anti foul.

[Morgan Paul]

Good luck John with your rust bucket (just kidding). It sounds like you have a get it done attitude. Keep us updated with photos. I have an old plastic boat so I can offer no advice at this point.

Here is a link to a Pugh 40 :

Vicsail Geelong - Motor Sailer 40 ft Steel

REMEMBER letting go the blast nozzel is not an option !!

WOW thats a scary thought.

[john connell]

Cooper,
Cheers for that info.Gives me food for thought.The blasting system I am considering hiring has a dead man's handle which means it dumps air as soon as you let go for safety reasons.Help will be at hand by a few family and friends-unwillingly of course.Amazing what kind of info you can store up on family and friends that they didnt think anyone knew about !!!
A quiet word in their ear and their yours.
All's fair in love and yacht building they say.

I am undecided how to go with this but as I can hire the blasting unit for $500 for 5 days and I figure with the compressor I can get a lend of the cost savings will help me pay for the other things.
Expensive cost isn't it.? But then again it's the bones of the boat being protected.
I'm a plumber by trade and they reckon we're expensive.Maybe should have been a sandblaster.?

The paint options are really interesting to consider, so thanks.

Morgan Paul,
Thanks for the link.
Looking at the transom it looks exactly the same shape as mine.Still need to check this out.
I'll post a few photos as I go and thanks for the support.

Note: Noticed that the add on the link for the Adams yacht indicated the hull was 5mm and the top side was also 5mm.
As I have decided to completely lop the old pilothouse and crappy deck off and completely rebuild a more flowing superstructure can someone advise the engineering side of this to me.I have 15 sheets of 3mx 1.5 m 5mm sheets at hand.Would love to use the 5mm for the decks but assumed this would make it top heavy and not in standing with normal principle.Thought I would have to stick with 3 mm as a rule,but with 15 sheets at hand would love to be able to use them as I got the lot for $1200 which was like winning Lotto.

All,
I am really humbled by the advice and support given so please accept my sincere thanks.Hope I can repay the favour somehow down the line.

Regards
John.





All,

Thank you all so much

[Pblais]

Cant work our why I am getting all of the crap jobs though and he gets the good ones.?

Aside from installing the flag halyard and polishing the bell all jobs have parts that are less than exciting. When it's almost done and starting to look like a boat you get to the jobs that require standing on your head and crawling into tight places. The bad news is you get those jobs after it's all done too. Working on a boat makes new muscles sore like never before. You'll be in great shape when you finish.

Keep a good sense of humor and don't drink at the job site. You need to go home sometimes to heal your wounds, clear your mind, and change your clothes. The mental game of it requires full attention much like sailing.

[john connell]

Paul,

Hi and thanks for the well placed advice.
I was an apprentice Plumber many many years ago so I know exactly what you mean.My brother used to give me all of the crap jobs.Trouble was his son got the payback years later as my apprentice.
Ah- smell the payback in the air!!

Seriously,your advice on the mental aspects is so well founded,particularly the humour side of it.
I bet there are some reallly funny stories out there.

I have said to a few people when they ask me what possessed me to take on this project this will keep me out of the pub,fairly fit and not on drugs- except prescribed by physchologists which I'm sure will come later.

Regards
John.

[Boracay]

"Do you say the one pack is more worth the consideration than two pack? Why is that ?"

It's really how we use the boat.

We have been getting in and out of some tight spaces with a few inevitable scratches, the wind blows the boat against dirty fenders that leave a few marks, the neighbour ties his boat up wrong - a few more scratches, and so on.

One pack is just easier to do small paint jobs. The brushes are useable for a few days and I can decant the paint into jars. The fumes are more tolerable and the stuff is way less toxic.

I even have my wife painting (when she feels like it).