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11-12-2017, 08:36
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Gulfport, MS
Boat: 1979 Morgan 461, 46' sloop
Posts: 85
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3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
Please let me know if anyone has had any bad experiences with this product - 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler.
I'm having a couple of through-hulls replaced. Replacing through-hull with two 90-degree elbows and inline PVC ball valve (which was in the boat when I bought it) with a flanged bronze seacock and one 90-degree elbow. The location is in the forward part of the hull roughly below the V-berth.
When the previous plywood backing block was removed, the curve of the hull is not flat enough to install the starboard backing plate, so the boatyard is recommending either (a) building up the space slightly using the 3M 46014 to make a flat surface or (b) grinding down the existing area to be flat.
Although the hull thickness may be enough to do some grinding, I'm reluctant to do that and would prefer to build it up. Of course, that introduces a new potential point of failure (cracking of the filler).
I'd appreciate any opinions on this product and its suitability for this purpose. Thanks in advance.
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11-12-2017, 23:44
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 489
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
Looks fine to me but I've never used it. Big help huh ?
If you'd like additional options, this Fasco stuff is really good. Additional fillers can be added and it's available at several locations, in other flavors, not just Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Fasco-Epoxy-G...ds=fasco+quart
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12-12-2017, 02:32
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bellingham
Boat: Outbound 44
Posts: 9,319
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
Starboard is a poor backing material. Did the yard choose this?
The 3M product is a vinyl ester resin and glass fiber mix. Should work fine if applied correctly.
__________________
Paul
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12-12-2017, 04:39
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: On the Water
Boat: 53' Cutter
Posts: 193
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
Generally speaking, you do not want have a filler like that have any more than 1/8" thickness when standing alone. Polyester is prone to become brittle.
If you expect more than 1/8" of total fill after sanding, then it would be better to use epoxy and multiple expanding layers of fiberglass cloth, ground back to be flat.
My personal choice for quick, durable build is to use Progressive Epoxy: Wet Dry 700, which can plug a hole in your boat, underwater if required. It is awesome stuff, but expensive.
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12-12-2017, 04:52
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: CT
Boat: C&C 34
Posts: 1,045
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
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12-12-2017, 05:08
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: USA
Posts: 489
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
Quote:
Originally Posted by Three Sisters
Looks fine to me but I've never used it. Big help huh ?
If you'd like additional options, this Fasco stuff is really good. Additional fillers can be added and it's available at several locations, in other flavors, not just Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Fasco-Epoxy-G...ds=fasco+quart
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That link didn't work for me. Here is the manufacturer's site.
Fasco 110 Epoxy Glue
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12-12-2017, 06:22
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cape Haze,FL
Boat: Carver,Cobia,Nacra, Columbia
Posts: 815
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
How long did the original plywood backing plate last?? Sounds like the answer is to use wood for the new backing plate, find a craftsman that knows who to bend it with steam / water.
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12-12-2017, 07:19
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Miami Florida
Boat: Ellis Flybridge 28
Posts: 4,057
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
Assuming you only need a thin layer to flatten the surface the 3M product should be fine. Thickened epoxy would be my choice for it's adhesion.
I second using Mainsail's backing plate method. If you use a Groco or Apollo seacock you can buy ready made backing plates made by Groco that make it really easy.
https://www.groco.net/products/valve...backing-blocks
__________________
Retired from Hopkins-Carter Marine Supplies
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12-12-2017, 09:00
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,007
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
Backing plates need to be strong.
You can build it up with epoxy and glass.
You can use plywood ground to match the contour of the hull.
You can use G10, ground to match the contour of the hull.
Any of those will do the job RIGHT. It's a thru-hull. You want it right.
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12-12-2017, 13:25
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Queensland, Australia
Boat: None at present--between vessels. Ex Piver Loadstar 12.5 metres
Posts: 1,475
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
That compound sounds fine. I use Ferropre--it is commonly used by plumbers, is incredibly strong and sticks to anything clean. I suspect it is a water-based reinforced epoxy putty. It will set under water--so most Australian boaties carry it aboard. I also carried pre-prepared epoxy saturated 6mm plywood patches of varying sizes.
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18-12-2017, 14:45
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Biloxi, MS
Boat: 1978 Cabo Rico Tiburon 36 "Isabella"
Posts: 597
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
Quote:
Originally Posted by TCL
Please let me know if anyone has had any bad experiences with this product - 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler.
I'm having a couple of through-hulls replaced. Replacing through-hull with two 90-degree elbows and inline PVC ball valve (which was in the boat when I bought it) with a flanged bronze seacock and one 90-degree elbow. The location is in the forward part of the hull roughly below the V-berth.
When the previous plywood backing block was removed, the curve of the hull is not flat enough to install the starboard backing plate, so the boatyard is recommending either (a) building up the space slightly using the 3M 46014 to make a flat surface or (b) grinding down the existing area to be flat.
Although the hull thickness may be enough to do some grinding, I'm reluctant to do that and would prefer to build it up. Of course, that introduces a new potential point of failure (cracking of the filler).
I'd appreciate any opinions on this product and its suitability for this purpose. Thanks in advance.
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I recommend using 1/4 or 1/2" g10 fiberglass for your backing plate. I had a couple through hulls with the same problem. I light ground the area to good material, mixed up West System epoxy with 404 and 403 thickeners to a thick past and loaded the packing plate (sand it's surface first also) and put it in place (pre-fit and draw a circle with pencil to make location easy when gluing). I then filleted the squeeze out around the backing plate and put masking tape on it to hold in place.
I then hole sawed the backing plate from the outside using the old hole as a guide. This is solid as a rock and perfectly flat. I used 1/2" thick g10 so I could drill and tap it for bronze studs to bolt the flags down (you can do this prier to installing).
Something like this for the backing material:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3679/=1aqqs2r
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18-12-2017, 17:00
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Diego CA
Boat: Liberty 458
Posts: 2,205
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
G10 shaped to fit the hull works well. It's brutal on cutting tools but is my preference over what is essentially bog.
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18-12-2017, 19:45
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Tampa, FL
Boat: Yankee 30'
Posts: 211
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler
Nice way I have been using:
1. Make a circle shaped backing plate out of 1/4" thick scrap fiberglass (top side smooth)or G10 with a close fit over the through hull. Clean the hull around the hole. My favorite tool is "sponge wheel" 3M makes "paint stripper" tool that is used with drill motor, a very coarse sponge abrassive.
2. wrap the threads of the through hull with teflon tape
3. mix microbaloons or a filler as recommended in previous posts with epoxy of your choice to peanut butter consistency.
4. stick the through hull through the hull, have someone hold it from outside, preferably with a flat piece of iron that engages the nubs inside to keep it from turning.
5. spread the mush on the hull and the backing plate disc, preferably without getting it on the threads
6. plop the backing plate over the though hull, while someone is holding it on the outside and slowly and carefully start tightening the nut over it by hand until the mush squeezes out evenly, keeping the backing plate flat against the nut. Ideally, you would stop before the backing plate touches the hull at some high spot. A dry test run (without the mush) might be a good idea first if the area is really uneven, so you see how far it can go. If the backing plate tips, because you hit some high spot on the hull, you went too far.
7. Beer.
8. Next day, remove and rebed through hull with your favourite caulking.
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