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Old 11-12-2017, 08:36   #1
TCL
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3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

Please let me know if anyone has had any bad experiences with this product - 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler.

I'm having a couple of through-hulls replaced. Replacing through-hull with two 90-degree elbows and inline PVC ball valve (which was in the boat when I bought it) with a flanged bronze seacock and one 90-degree elbow. The location is in the forward part of the hull roughly below the V-berth.

When the previous plywood backing block was removed, the curve of the hull is not flat enough to install the starboard backing plate, so the boatyard is recommending either (a) building up the space slightly using the 3M 46014 to make a flat surface or (b) grinding down the existing area to be flat.

Although the hull thickness may be enough to do some grinding, I'm reluctant to do that and would prefer to build it up. Of course, that introduces a new potential point of failure (cracking of the filler).

I'd appreciate any opinions on this product and its suitability for this purpose. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-12-2017, 23:44   #2
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

Looks fine to me but I've never used it. Big help huh ?

If you'd like additional options, this Fasco stuff is really good. Additional fillers can be added and it's available at several locations, in other flavors, not just Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Fasco-Epoxy-G...ds=fasco+quart
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:32   #3
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

Starboard is a poor backing material. Did the yard choose this?

The 3M product is a vinyl ester resin and glass fiber mix. Should work fine if applied correctly.
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:39   #4
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

Generally speaking, you do not want have a filler like that have any more than 1/8" thickness when standing alone. Polyester is prone to become brittle.

If you expect more than 1/8" of total fill after sanding, then it would be better to use epoxy and multiple expanding layers of fiberglass cloth, ground back to be flat.

My personal choice for quick, durable build is to use Progressive Epoxy: Wet Dry 700, which can plug a hole in your boat, underwater if required. It is awesome stuff, but expensive.
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:52   #5
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

Check out these two articles from MaineSail:

Seacock Backing Plates / Alternate Method / No Through Bolts Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

They will probably answer most of your questions and may even give you some more ideas.
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Old 12-12-2017, 05:08   #6
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

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Originally Posted by Three Sisters View Post
Looks fine to me but I've never used it. Big help huh ?

If you'd like additional options, this Fasco stuff is really good. Additional fillers can be added and it's available at several locations, in other flavors, not just Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Fasco-Epoxy-G...ds=fasco+quart


That link didn't work for me. Here is the manufacturer's site.


Fasco 110 Epoxy Glue



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Old 12-12-2017, 06:22   #7
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

How long did the original plywood backing plate last?? Sounds like the answer is to use wood for the new backing plate, find a craftsman that knows who to bend it with steam / water.
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Old 12-12-2017, 07:19   #8
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

Assuming you only need a thin layer to flatten the surface the 3M product should be fine. Thickened epoxy would be my choice for it's adhesion.

I second using Mainsail's backing plate method. If you use a Groco or Apollo seacock you can buy ready made backing plates made by Groco that make it really easy.
https://www.groco.net/products/valve...backing-blocks
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:00   #9
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

Backing plates need to be strong.

You can build it up with epoxy and glass.
You can use plywood ground to match the contour of the hull.
You can use G10, ground to match the contour of the hull.

Any of those will do the job RIGHT. It's a thru-hull. You want it right.
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Old 12-12-2017, 13:25   #10
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

That compound sounds fine. I use Ferropre--it is commonly used by plumbers, is incredibly strong and sticks to anything clean. I suspect it is a water-based reinforced epoxy putty. It will set under water--so most Australian boaties carry it aboard. I also carried pre-prepared epoxy saturated 6mm plywood patches of varying sizes.
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Old 18-12-2017, 14:45   #11
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

Quote:
Originally Posted by TCL View Post
Please let me know if anyone has had any bad experiences with this product - 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler.

I'm having a couple of through-hulls replaced. Replacing through-hull with two 90-degree elbows and inline PVC ball valve (which was in the boat when I bought it) with a flanged bronze seacock and one 90-degree elbow. The location is in the forward part of the hull roughly below the V-berth.

When the previous plywood backing block was removed, the curve of the hull is not flat enough to install the starboard backing plate, so the boatyard is recommending either (a) building up the space slightly using the 3M 46014 to make a flat surface or (b) grinding down the existing area to be flat.

Although the hull thickness may be enough to do some grinding, I'm reluctant to do that and would prefer to build it up. Of course, that introduces a new potential point of failure (cracking of the filler).

I'd appreciate any opinions on this product and its suitability for this purpose. Thanks in advance.
I recommend using 1/4 or 1/2" g10 fiberglass for your backing plate. I had a couple through hulls with the same problem. I light ground the area to good material, mixed up West System epoxy with 404 and 403 thickeners to a thick past and loaded the packing plate (sand it's surface first also) and put it in place (pre-fit and draw a circle with pencil to make location easy when gluing). I then filleted the squeeze out around the backing plate and put masking tape on it to hold in place.

I then hole sawed the backing plate from the outside using the old hole as a guide. This is solid as a rock and perfectly flat. I used 1/2" thick g10 so I could drill and tap it for bronze studs to bolt the flags down (you can do this prier to installing).

Something like this for the backing material:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3679/=1aqqs2r
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Old 18-12-2017, 17:00   #12
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

G10 shaped to fit the hull works well. It's brutal on cutting tools but is my preference over what is essentially bog.
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Old 18-12-2017, 19:45   #13
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Re: 3M 46014 Marine High Strength Repair Filler

Nice way I have been using:

1. Make a circle shaped backing plate out of 1/4" thick scrap fiberglass (top side smooth)or G10 with a close fit over the through hull. Clean the hull around the hole. My favorite tool is "sponge wheel" 3M makes "paint stripper" tool that is used with drill motor, a very coarse sponge abrassive.
2. wrap the threads of the through hull with teflon tape
3. mix microbaloons or a filler as recommended in previous posts with epoxy of your choice to peanut butter consistency.
4. stick the through hull through the hull, have someone hold it from outside, preferably with a flat piece of iron that engages the nubs inside to keep it from turning.
5. spread the mush on the hull and the backing plate disc, preferably without getting it on the threads
6. plop the backing plate over the though hull, while someone is holding it on the outside and slowly and carefully start tightening the nut over it by hand until the mush squeezes out evenly, keeping the backing plate flat against the nut. Ideally, you would stop before the backing plate touches the hull at some high spot. A dry test run (without the mush) might be a good idea first if the area is really uneven, so you see how far it can go. If the backing plate tips, because you hit some high spot on the hull, you went too far.
7. Beer.
8. Next day, remove and rebed through hull with your favourite caulking.
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