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Old 05-05-2015, 04:34   #16
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Location: Cruising
Boat: Ebbtide 36 steel cutter "Jenain"
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Re: 34 Year Reportů Teak and Steel

Regarding the cost, I paid just over $ 7000 for the total paint job, this included primers, filler (not much), and the Awlgrip. I did all of the rust repair myself, and also supplied the bottom paint. The haul out took 9 weeks, but for 2 of those weeks, I worked alone. This price is only a guide, and could vary drastically,depending on the boat, but also on which crew do the job. My painter's quote was 40 percent cheaper than the next closest quote.

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Old 05-05-2015, 05:39   #17
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Philadelphia
Boat: Murray 33-Chouette & Pape Steelmaid-44-Safara-both steel cutters
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Re: 34 Year Reportů Teak and Steel

We have a pape SteelMaid, 44' LOD hat was flame coated with aluminum I Cornwall by the first owner during the hull build. Almost no teak trim, just to top the gunals, and they were capped wit SS angle before the teak was screwed down.

She is a 1985ish boat that has crossed the Atlantic three times and been from Venezuela to Labrador.

I can see two places where someone did some replacing, both times under a persistent leak. None was a drip from the fridge condenser and the other was the forward head sink.

It's the same story with our 33' Brewer, a persistent leak from the radar pole to an inaccessible area caused me to do some small amount of replacing last year. Unfortunately one area was under the permanently mounted fuel tank that had to come out in five pound hunks.

This boat had been sprayed with foam. In the problem areas water eventually wicked under the foam creating a light rust. It was sporadic. But it had to come out, and where it was tightly adhered it was a real bugger to get the hard skin off the steel. Many hours of contortion under the cockpit sole.

We also blasted the bottom and repainted with Ameron 302 over coated with Bar Rust and then ABC3. I made several mistakes in this process and will now be doing a lot of rework to correct the issues.

I found it hard to get good advice on some important steps in the painting process. In fact I got some downright bad advice at times. It's going to be expensive, not so much in terms of money but in labor. It's been a steep learning curve.

On both boats I have welded up hull penetrations (bolted connections) and instead weld to the deck. Unfortunately the damn insurance inspectors have forced me to install some additional vent lines where I had to drill the hull. Blast them all!

I'm greatful for this thread and showing how a resourceful owner can get a job done right.

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Old 05-05-2015, 09:12   #18
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Re: 34 Year Reportů Teak and Steel

Originally Posted by Pelagic View Post
Zero rusting on the Hull, both inside and out.
Teak cladding.. even with Sikaflex bedding compounds induces moisture around the screw fasteners and after 35 years that was the only rust issues I found on the Cotton steel.
Lesson learned is that if I were building a new steel boat today.....NO TEAK CLADDING
Thank you for that very good information!

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Old 23-05-2016, 05:35   #19
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Re: 34 Year Reportů Teak and Steel

My name is Andrew and we conversed many years ago when you bought Stargazer. I did the first major refit, taking out all the portholes, pilot house windows..the lot. We had to replace copioiu amounts of steel but not in the bilges. We did however replace one piece of hull steel starboard side near the chain locker and the bulkhead steel between chain locker and fwd shower. Although I am an ex soldier I am really interested on how you addressed the issues of teak etc! My family loved stargazer. hopefully you like some of the changes that we made like with the new generator, sails etc. We never got round to the wiring etc and I guessed missed the professional expertise that you so obviously have. We had many trips of happy diving ( not sure if you have the compressor as we sold the boat to a Chicago sorry you weren't there) I envy your lifestyle and am happy that she found such a great home. yours aye, Andrew

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