Wow, oil-pan took 2 DAYS to install...
You would think it would have been easier if half the bolts did not hold anything against the block...
I replaced all 9 of them with stainless steel
bolts, along with stainless lock and flat washers. The key turned out to be threading in a back bolt first (not an easy task I may add, given that you cannot see anything back there and no room really exists for your hand if it is still attached to your arm). I held the pan tipped up aft, and was able to then see where the bolt was and where the bolt hole in the block was simultaneously. Once that resolved, the bolting of the pan in place was easier.
As I had easily lost
more of the holes on the pan than what remained, I was concerned I could not maintain a good seal, so used black Permatex on both the block and pan, and additionally used a piece of plumbing
strap from one useless pan bolt to another on the opposite side to help tightly hold the pan in place while the goop dried.
I then decided that it could not hurt to leave the galvanized strap in place as there is actually a low spot at the knife edge of the pan, roughly 1/4 inch tall and 1/2 inch wide that simply is not there. This would have left a gap, so I filled it well with Permatex black prior to reinstallation of the pan, and after I added oil it seems there are no leaks
The most trouble was really with just getting the pan to align with holes in the block, and the lack of accessible (and intact) pan flange holes made a difficult job almost impossible. I should have just pulled the engine out, and had I capability to do so I definitely would have. An otherwise simple and cheap
operation turned incredibly "fun", but I suppose that is the nature of boats...
After all was nice and solid, I decided to hook the Kingston valve from a bucket of water
(that was itself supplied by a freshwater hose) to the inlet on the water
pump, connect the new exhaust
host to the head
, and ensure the injector lines and throttle were installed properly.
What ensued was sheer pain.
I had forgotten the ignition key at home, so was unable to use the starter. I instead attempted to hand crank the engine. As it now had compression
, it was not very easy to turn that crank. Additionally, there is a wood step support that is perfectly positioned to rake the skin off your knuckles as you make each turn (or may even break the finger should the engine fire and not release the crank handle for some reason). After a ton of cranking we realized the transmission
was also engaged.
That is when we found out that the fixture that holds the throttle and transmission
levers was rotating when the levers were moved, rather than allowing the shift lever to move the rod in the engine compartment. We did manage to get it located into neutral, but it was a real pain and revealed that I had yet another thing to fix
. In the boat
, out of the boat
, in the boat, out of the boat....
Now, it appears that the injector is not allowing fuel
into the cylinder, and I suspect that I need to bleed the injector. There is a primer ball on the fuel
feed line, and three (yes, three
) fuel filters en route
to the engine from the tank.
I saw a valve located on the port side of the block, above the starter, that had a drain line that led down to the bilge
, but the thing is corroded to the point that it won't allow the threaded stem to rotate with the tools I had on board. I forgot to hit it with PB Blaster before I left the boat for the night, but will do so tomorrow (today I have to catch up with other issues). What is this valve for? There is no oil residue on the drain hose, and I don't see any indication of salt
inside the hose either.
I did see a great deal of salt
corrosion where some water lines connected to the engine block on that side of the engine, and the likely site of all the corrosion spray on that side of the engine. The hoses are new there, as are the clamps, so it seems that a PO managed to finally repair a leaking hose that is the source of most of my worries in this process. Seems like they could have done it before half the oil pan dissolved, however...
, could you let me know about the injector bleeding issue? Is this valve body halfway down the side of the block the means of doing so? Is there some other way? I am hoping that an air bubble is the only reason the engine won't start. If that is the case, would using the starter be enough to push the air from the injector and bleed it via that route