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Old 26-11-2008, 15:34   #16
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Will email now and take a couple more photos and email them as well. I am on the boat with a slow connection so it may take some time.
You should be paid for this kind of service. Perhaps Yanmar will pay for a warranty claim
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Old 26-11-2008, 16:12   #17
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Some more photos
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Old 26-11-2008, 17:13   #18
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I don't see anything glaring at me.
Is the intake air heater wired up?
back to the oil pressure question.
Do you notice if the oil pressure light goes out before the engine shuts down?
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Old 26-11-2008, 17:35   #19
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Originally Posted by never monday View Post
I don't see anything glaring at me.
Is the intake air heater wired up?

Yes, but I have not been using it as temperatures have been reasonably warm.

back to the oil pressure question.
Do you notice if the oil pressure light goes out before the engine shuts down?
I have had some problems with the senders. My boat is aluminium and requires senders that are not earthed through the block. The dealer has managed to get the correct 2 wire sender for the temperature, but not the oil pressure and alarm. Do you happen to know the correct tread for these so I can order them?
The oil alarm is not such a problem as it is normally off or open when the engine is running. The oil pressure wont read unless I switch the negative ground on to the engine. I do this for a few seconds to check the oil pressure.When starting the engine ground is connected so the alarms and gauges function normally.
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Old 26-11-2008, 17:47   #20
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It should be 1/8" npt

can you put your hand on the electric pump and have someone start the boat the normal way. If the pump is functioning you'll feel it pulse. We might be getting something here.
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Old 26-11-2008, 18:05   #21
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It's really hard to tell from those pictures but are the hoses to/from the electric fuel pump long enough? It looks to me like there is a lot of tube sticking out of the pump before the start of the fuel line hose. This could be a cause of a small air leak, and if it is leaking on the inlet side of the pump it might not leak fuel.

Just a guess.
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Old 27-11-2008, 01:07   #22
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It should be 1/8" npt

can you put your hand on the electric pump and have someone start the boat the normal way. If the pump is functioning you'll feel it pulse. We might be getting something here.
I will try that today
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Old 27-11-2008, 01:44   #23
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It's really hard to tell from those pictures but are the hoses to/from the electric fuel pump long enough? It looks to me like there is a lot of tube sticking out of the pump before the start of the fuel line hose. This could be a cause of a small air leak, and if it is leaking on the inlet side of the pump it might not leak fuel.

Just a guess.
Thanks for the thought. The connection on top of the electric fuel pump came with the engine so has been done by Yanmar, but that doesn't mean it has been done correctly. I will try redoing both the top and bottom connections and see if that helps.
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Old 27-11-2008, 02:35   #24
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NM seems to be zeroing in on something but I'll toss out an educated guess of a leak on the suction side of the system.

I reckon at rest air is getting and letting the fuel drain back to the tank. The first start just runs out what in the fuel filter and HP side.

I would try 2 things.

1 - Do what you normally do. Pull the fuel line from the bottom of the silver can. If no fuel drains out the fuel is draining out of the system at rest.

2 - Stop the fuel cock if you don't already. This would stop a drain back to the tank. Try a start the next day.

I would first make sure the Racor is assembled securely and correctly. In fact I would remove the bowl, check the seal and reinstall. I always put a little vaseline on low pressure joints.
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Old 27-11-2008, 02:50   #25
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NM seems to be zeroing in on something but I'll toss out an educated guess of a leak on the suction side of the system.

I reckon at rest air is getting and letting the fuel drain back to the tank. The first start just runs out what in the fuel filter and HP side.

I would try 2 things.

1 - Do what you normally do. Pull the fuel line from the bottom of the silver can. If no fuel drains out the fuel is draining out of the system at rest.

2 - Stop the fuel cock if you don't already. This would stop a drain back to the tank. Try a start the next day.

I would first make sure the Racor is assembled securely and correctly. In fact I would remove the bowl, check the seal and reinstall. I always put a little vaseline on low pressure joints.
Thanks for those thoughts. There are some good ideas there and I will try them all.
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Old 27-11-2008, 06:00   #26
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I'd like to know if the electric pump continues to run as the engine is running. If you electrically isolated. The electric pump may be pressurizing the system initially and then stopping.
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Old 27-11-2008, 07:40   #27
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I'd like to know if the electric pump continues to run as the engine is running. If you electrically isolated. The electric pump may be pressurizing the system initially and then stopping.
I will certainly check the electric fuel pump is running and continues to run. It should not be effected by the negative isolation system however as it has a separate earth and is not earthed through the engine block. The engine also will start then stop a few seconds later even if I continue to hold the switch down that grounds the engine block. (The only way to activate the start motor is to temporally ground the engine block). The engine also runs perfectly (when it has started and stopped a couple of times) despite an ungrounded engine block.
The fuel pump could simply be defective though and be the cause of my problems.
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Old 27-11-2008, 08:04   #28
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even with the block ungrounded. unless the harness is on the ground side of the isolation solenoid it will affect the accessories.
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Old 27-11-2008, 08:36   #29
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Yes the wiring harness is on the ground side of the isolation solenoid. The wiring harness is ground permanently with the engine running only the engine block is unground. The idea is to prevent any negative contact with the hull other than for a few seconds when the engine starts.
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Old 27-11-2008, 12:27   #30
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It should be 1/8" npt

.
Thanks for the information. I have found in a catalog of oil pressure senders it lists both
1/8-27NPTF(M4) and
1/8 27NPTF(10-32)

The reason I ask is I got some negative isolated oil pressure senders that looked correct and would almost screw in to the Yanmar, but kept cross threading no matter how I tried to insert them unlike the original (but unsuitable earth return senders). I suspect the diameter 1/8 was correct but the screw threads were different. I think I will have to order the isolated senders from overseas as no one in the locally in the Med seems to be able to supply them. I don't mind ordering another set but it would be great if they were correct.
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