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Old 29-04-2010, 16:28   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonosailor View Post
I know this thread is a little old, but maybe I'll catch somebody with some experience. I just found Mocha Coffee in my port saildrive.

1. Are you guys saying that a DIYer will need access to some special nut and a "press" to do this job, and shouldn't attempt it without an extended period available on the "hard"? What is required to break/loosen this special nut? I thought the seals were in the back plate, and the shaft stayed where it is.

2. Somebody just told me that the seals should be bedded into the aluminum with "Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, by Permatex, to minimize differential metal corrosion. He feels the failure could start as galvanic corrosion. Any feedback on that?

3. The seals have a "U" cross-section. I understand that the "U" of both seals are meant to face the seawater, not the oil. Can you confirm?

4. Assuming I am now too nervous to do it myself, anybody got a reference for a good saildrive mechanic in Chaguaramas, Trinidad?

Thanks folks.

IIRC, the seals are in a seal "carrier" One U faces inward to seal the oil in, one U faces out to seal the water out. I don't believe you need the special socket to replace the seals.
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Old 29-04-2010, 19:47   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonosailor View Post
I know this thread is a little old, but maybe I'll catch somebody with some experience. I just found Mocha Coffee in my port saildrive.

1. Are you guys saying that a DIYer will need access to some special nut and a "press" to do this job, and shouldn't attempt it without an extended period available on the "hard"? What is required to break/loosen this special nut? I thought the seals were in the back plate, and the shaft stayed where it is.

2. Somebody just told me that the seals should be bedded into the aluminum with "Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, by Permatex, to minimize differential metal corrosion. He feels the failure could start as galvanic corrosion. Any feedback on that?

3. The seals have a "U" cross-section. I understand that the "U" of both seals are meant to face the seawater, not the oil. Can you confirm?

4. Assuming I am now too nervous to do it myself, anybody got a reference for a good saildrive mechanic in Chaguaramas, Trinidad?

Thanks folks.
The last post is correct; the seals are back to back.

I'd be skeptical about RTV. I always heard that if a little piece of cured RTV got into gears, it would cause a lot of damage. I greased mine.

And I didn't do anything with the special nut. Left it as is.

The biggest difficulty I had was pressing the bearing straight into the housing. It kept getting cocked .
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:34   #48
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Well, I've given it my best, and it is reassembled and filled with oil in Chaguaramas. We'll know how things went when we splash again in November. Thanks for your assistance.
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Old 20-11-2011, 17:46   #49
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tellie View Post
If anyone wants that lower gear housing break away diagram let me know.
Can you send it to me? I have SD-20's.
Thanks,
Susan
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Old 20-11-2011, 19:14   #50
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution

My! This is old! Sail drives still going strong, But I pull the boat in a couple of weeks and will do a more comprehensive evaluation then!

Keith
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Old 05-12-2011, 19:15   #51
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution

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Originally Posted by Strygaldwir View Post
My! This is old! Sail drives still going strong, But I pull the boat in a couple of weeks and will do a more comprehensive evaluation then!

Keith
Hi Keith,

What did you determine on the SD20 seacocks not closing? Are you just being careful to keep a hose attached and above waterline?

Good to hear the unit is doing well. Looking forward to hearing your report.
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Old 05-12-2011, 19:58   #52
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution

I remove my seacocks (called Kingston by Yanmar) each hauling and lubricate with WD 40, and then heavier stuff. Still using originals at nearly 12 years.
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Old 09-12-2011, 12:25   #53
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution

I completely replaced them with Marelon seacocks. Much better solution, 4 years or so, no issues.
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Old 10-12-2011, 14:45   #54
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution

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Originally Posted by Strygaldwir View Post
I completely replaced them with Marelon seacocks. Much better solution, 4 years or so, no issues.
Do these seacocks screw into the sail drive same as original?
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Old 26-08-2012, 21:13   #55
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution

Any good ideas as to how to clean inside the sd 20 leg to get out critters ,shells etc to allow good unrestricted seawater flow?
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Old 26-08-2012, 21:42   #56
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution

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Originally Posted by ggray View Post
The last post is correct; the seals are back to back.

I'd be skeptical about RTV. I always heard that if a little piece of cured RTV got into gears, it would cause a lot of damage. I greased mine.

And I didn't do anything with the special nut. Left it as is.

The biggest difficulty I had was pressing the bearing straight into the housing. It kept getting cocked .
We use Locktite 271 for propshaft seals and pack the space between the seals with Mercury 101 with Teflon. A trick I learned when pressing bearings into a housing is to start them in straight with a dead blow hammer before pressing.
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Old 26-08-2012, 22:44   #57
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution

Oh boy do I hate my Yanmar SD50's ....
I had my cone clutches serviced at well under a thousand hours in Antigua with the agent ... cost me a pretty penny ... arrived in the BVI's and am now having to remove them and install new clutch cone kits. This engineering is hugely antiquated!
The type and brand of oil apparently plays a HUGE role in hours and the oil I was recommended to use by the agents in SA was not the oil to use according to the agent in Antigua ... I just find I can not be sure when they will slip and when they will not, so it's 2 brand new kits for me at under 1000 hrs.
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Old 07-08-2016, 05:31   #58
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution

I have used both contact adhesive as well as sikaflex in the past - with good results.


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Originally Posted by cchesley View Post
I have an additional issue with these units.... the fairing rubber boot. (Not the rubber seal which is an integral item. My boot which fairs the saildrive with the hull has separated from the hull. I'm told that it is not a critical issue but it does represent additional drag at the least an possible source of problems down the line, not the least of which is marine growth etc etc. Anyone else experience this? What do you/have you used to 'glue' the rubber to the underside of the hull?
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