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29-04-2010, 15:28
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#46
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonosailor
I know this thread is a little old, but maybe I'll catch somebody with some experience. I just found Mocha Coffee in my port saildrive.
1. Are you guys saying that a DIYer will need access to some special nut and a "press" to do this job, and shouldn't attempt it without an extended period available on the "hard"? What is required to break/loosen this special nut? I thought the seals were in the back plate, and the shaft stayed where it is.
2. Somebody just told me that the seals should be bedded into the aluminum with "Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, by Permatex, to minimize differential metal corrosion. He feels the failure could start as galvanic corrosion. Any feedback on that?
3. The seals have a "U" cross-section. I understand that the "U" of both seals are meant to face the seawater, not the oil. Can you confirm?
4. Assuming I am now too nervous to do it myself, anybody got a reference for a good saildrive mechanic in Chaguaramas, Trinidad?
Thanks folks.
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IIRC, the seals are in a seal "carrier" One U faces inward to seal the oil in, one U faces out to seal the water out. I don't believe you need the special socket to replace the seals.
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29-04-2010, 18:47
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#47
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southern Chesapeake Bay
Boat: Norseman 430, Jabberwock
Posts: 1,405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonosailor
I know this thread is a little old, but maybe I'll catch somebody with some experience. I just found Mocha Coffee in my port saildrive.
1. Are you guys saying that a DIYer will need access to some special nut and a "press" to do this job, and shouldn't attempt it without an extended period available on the "hard"? What is required to break/loosen this special nut? I thought the seals were in the back plate, and the shaft stayed where it is.
2. Somebody just told me that the seals should be bedded into the aluminum with "Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, by Permatex, to minimize differential metal corrosion. He feels the failure could start as galvanic corrosion. Any feedback on that?
3. The seals have a "U" cross-section. I understand that the "U" of both seals are meant to face the seawater, not the oil. Can you confirm?
4. Assuming I am now too nervous to do it myself, anybody got a reference for a good saildrive mechanic in Chaguaramas, Trinidad?
Thanks folks.
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The last post is correct; the seals are back to back.
I'd be skeptical about RTV. I always heard that if a little piece of cured RTV got into gears, it would cause a lot of damage. I greased mine.
And I didn't do anything with the special nut. Left it as is.
The biggest difficulty I had was pressing the bearing straight into the housing. It kept getting cocked .
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02-08-2010, 04:34
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#48
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Fredericton, NB, Canada in the summer and fall; Caribbean in winter and spring aboard Cat Tales.
Boat: FP Tobago 35 (and a H-21 SE)
Posts: 620
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Well, I've given it my best, and it is reassembled and filled with oil in Chaguaramas. We'll know how things went when we splash again in November. Thanks for your assistance.
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20-11-2011, 16:46
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#49
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Marine Service Provider
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: still cruising after 18 years
Boat: MaineCat Catamaran 41'
Posts: 534
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tellie
If anyone wants that lower gear housing break away diagram let me know.
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Can you send it to me? I have SD-20's.
Thanks,
Susan
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20-11-2011, 18:14
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#50
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Boat: Privilege 37
Posts: 1,036
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution
My! This is old! Sail drives still going strong, But I pull the boat in a couple of weeks and will do a more comprehensive evaluation then!
Keith
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05-12-2011, 18:15
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#51
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 278
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strygaldwir
My! This is old! Sail drives still going strong, But I pull the boat in a couple of weeks and will do a more comprehensive evaluation then!
Keith
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Hi Keith,
What did you determine on the SD20 seacocks not closing? Are you just being careful to keep a hose attached and above waterline?
Good to hear the unit is doing well. Looking forward to hearing your report.
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05-12-2011, 18:58
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#52
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southern Chesapeake Bay
Boat: Norseman 430, Jabberwock
Posts: 1,405
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution
I remove my seacocks (called Kingston by Yanmar) each hauling and lubricate with WD 40, and then heavier stuff. Still using originals at nearly 12 years.
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09-12-2011, 11:25
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#53
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Boat: Privilege 37
Posts: 1,036
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution
I completely replaced them with Marelon seacocks. Much better solution, 4 years or so, no issues.
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10-12-2011, 13:45
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#54
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southern Chesapeake Bay
Boat: Norseman 430, Jabberwock
Posts: 1,405
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strygaldwir
I completely replaced them with Marelon seacocks. Much better solution, 4 years or so, no issues.
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Do these seacocks screw into the sail drive same as original?
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26-08-2012, 20:13
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#55
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Queensland, Australia
Boat: Maxim 38 ft catamaran
Posts: 284
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution
Any good ideas as to how to clean inside the sd 20 leg to get out critters ,shells etc to allow good unrestricted seawater flow?
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26-08-2012, 20:42
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#56
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: ontario canada
Boat: grampian 26
Posts: 1,743
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution
Quote:
Originally Posted by ggray
The last post is correct; the seals are back to back.
I'd be skeptical about RTV. I always heard that if a little piece of cured RTV got into gears, it would cause a lot of damage. I greased mine.
And I didn't do anything with the special nut. Left it as is.
The biggest difficulty I had was pressing the bearing straight into the housing. It kept getting cocked .
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We use Locktite 271 for propshaft seals and pack the space between the seals with Mercury 101 with Teflon. A trick I learned when pressing bearings into a housing is to start them in straight with a dead blow hammer before pressing.
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26-08-2012, 21:44
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#57
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: From Cape Town now New Caledonia
Boat: Lagoon 440
Posts: 962
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution
Oh boy do I hate my Yanmar SD50's ....
I had my cone clutches serviced at well under a thousand hours in Antigua with the agent ... cost me a pretty penny ... arrived in the BVI's and am now having to remove them and install new clutch cone kits. This engineering is hugely antiquated!
The type and brand of oil apparently plays a HUGE role in hours and the oil I was recommended to use by the agents in SA was not the oil to use according to the agent in Antigua ... I just find I can not be sure when they will slip and when they will not, so it's 2 brand new kits for me at under 1000 hrs.
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07-08-2016, 04:31
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#58
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Senior Cruiser
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cruising Indian Ocean / Red Sea - home is Zimbabwe
Boat: V45
Posts: 1,352
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution
I have used both contact adhesive as well as sikaflex in the past - with good results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cchesley
I have an additional issue with these units.... the fairing rubber boot. (Not the rubber seal which is an integral item. My boot which fairs the saildrive with the hull has separated from the hull. I'm told that it is not a critical issue but it does represent additional drag at the least an possible source of problems down the line, not the least of which is marine growth etc etc. Anyone else experience this? What do you/have you used to 'glue' the rubber to the underside of the hull?
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26-07-2017, 12:21
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#59
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bonaire
Boat: Voyage Maxim 380
Posts: 33
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Re: Yanmar SD20 Sail Drive Caution
Okay I am getting so confused. I have SD20 sail drives that I want to change the seals. I was going to get the local guy here in Aruba to show me how, but he wants over $500USD! I have one of the units out and parts arriving on Sunday with a friend. Now I saw a video on line showing you undo the 5 bolts on the collar, knock it off, replace the 2 oil seals inside and the 2 external O rings. In the You tube (Catalyn) he casually pushed the oil seal in, chucked the 2 retainers in, then the video finished. How hard is it to replace the seals - would I need to press them in or can they be inserted by hand? I have not taken the bolts off the collar as yet, and am tempted to just reinsert the whole damn thing, rather than risk having problems reassembling. I would appreciate any suggestions.
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