Yanmar j4h3e Engine Lube Sump

[ARGONAUTA]

I have a 10 yr old yanmar diesel j4h3e with a leak in the oil pan yielding 3/4 cup of oil/day. I am in the Bahamas at a dock and plan to lift the engine with jacks and block and tackle. My problem is there are no parts people that I can find that have a replacement pan readily available. The answer is it can be ordered from Yanmar and delivered to the US in 2-4 weeks from Japan. Is it safe to repair by welding the pan? Can a machine shop fabricate a new pan? Has anyone had the above pan manufactured that I might be able to have reproduced for me? Does anyone have access to this pan or know where I can get one? Thanks Argonauta

[Laidback]

Argonauto, Once you have removed the sump (careful not to damage gaskets and seals)
The sump needs cleaning of all oil residue - then first examine for obvious holes, then for pin holes that have rusted through from the outside. IF no holes are found check the sump's fore and aft oil seals.
The most frequent problem where the bottom of the pan has been in salt water that has sat in the bilge is first pin holes, which in time get bigger.
Generally no need to replace with a new sump - take the holed sump to an auto radiator repair shop and they will braze weld it with oxyacetylene and an appropriate alloy rod (bronze + --- flux)
Once repaired, clean up the bilge - paint the sump with protective paint.
Replace seals - gasket and sump. Add oil - check for leaks.
Keep salt water out the bilge.

[Mark Zarley]

Don't know what your long range plans are , but taking the pan off while trying to save the pan gasket is a joke. If you just need a temporary fix untill you get home to the states . JB weld smeared over the leak will seal it up. You must drain the oil 1st and use a solvent to remove all traces of oil ( acetone, lacquer thinner or even carburator cleaner will work). If the whole bottom of the pan is pitted, rough up with sandpaper (this provides tooth) and put JB weld on with a putty knife or spreader. Don't Know what island you are on, but the locals mechanics are very into fixing things themselves. Good luck

[Laidback]

Don't know about removing the sump as a being a joke. However would agree IF the sump pan is accessible in situ then IF Arganauta has a supply of "JB Weld" handy, then that is certainly a very good option.

[ARGONAUTA]

Thanks to Laidback and Mark. Yanmar recommends a silicone seal for the gasket so will remove the old seal and replace when I have my pan repaired or replaced. I am in very tight quarters and will need to cut a 6 in. hole in my deck over the engine lift tabs to hoist the engine up to gain access to the pan. I have cleaned and oiled the motor mounts to make them more easy toremove. Will start tomorrow. I am not to mechanical so hope all goes well...Jerry

[Laidback]

Originally Posted by ARGONAUTA

Thanks to Laidback and Mark. Yanmar recommends a silicone seal for the gasket so will remove the old seal and replace when I have my pan repaired or replaced. I am in very tight quarters and will need to cut a 6 in. hole in my deck over the engine lift tabs to hoist the engine up to gain access to the pan. I have cleaned and oiled the motor mounts to make them more easy toremove. Will start tomorrow. I am not to mechanical so hope all goes well...Jerry

Jerry,
Before you cut a hole in the deck -- see if you can lever and block- lever and block- lever and block -----the engine until you can see all round the pan - then clean it until you can get a fix on the leak source/s. Only then decide on the next course of action.
Richard