Yanmar engine problems, 2nd opinions please

[eisselhardt]

Over four months ago, the Yanmar 4 cyl diesel on my 2010 Beneteau 43 began to show white smoke out of the exhaust and slow starting. The boat was new to us then, and had sat for a year on the hard. Then, it would not start at all one day.

Before it stopped starting, aside from the symptoms described above, the engine ran fine.

The guy I hired to fix the problem determined that the fuel injector pump needed rebuilding, and when it was off the engine, he found that essential parts had rusted. It took him nearly four months to get the parts in (that is a different story...). In the meantime, I treated the fuel with a commercial water treatment additive.

Last weekend, I took the boat out for the first time since the rebuild. There was still white smoke, but I figured the engine had sat for four months, and hoped it would burn off. Fifteen minutes in, the white smoke turned grey, and a light ticking sound began to come from the engine. Ten minutes later, there was a loud clang, clang, clang, and the engine stalled. Shut everything down, and got a tow back to home.

It seems to me that they didn't reassemble the systems correctly. The repair guy is already making sounds about how water in the system would cause the problem, and he's coming in this week to do a compression check.

What do you think?

[nes]

I don't know the answer to your question. However, a Google search on "diesel white smoke" returned this as the first response: Cost Effective Maintenance - Diesel Smoke tells YOU a Story...

[scotty c-m]

Thanks, nes, great site. Eric, what is the reputation of your mechanic? Sometimes that's all I can go by. Good luck with your engine (I have a 4JH4).

[carstenb]

Originally Posted by eisselhardt

Over four months ago, the Yanmar 4 cyl diesel on my 2010 Beneteau 43 began to show white smoke out of the exhaust and slow starting. The boat was new to us then, and had sat for a year on the hard. Then, it would not start at all one day.

Before it stopped starting, aside from the symptoms described above, the engine ran fine.

The guy I hired to fix the problem determined that the fuel injector pump needed rebuilding, and when it was off the engine, he found that essential parts had rusted. It took him nearly four months to get the parts in (that is a different story...). In the meantime, I treated the fuel with a commercial water treatment additive.

Last weekend, I took the boat out for the first time since the rebuild. There was still white smoke, but I figured the engine had sat for four months, and hoped it would burn off. Fifteen minutes in, the white smoke turned grey, and a light ticking sound began to come from the engine. Ten minutes later, there was a loud clang, clang, clang, and the engine stalled. Shut everything down, and got a tow back to home.

It seems to me that they didn't reassemble the systems correctly. The repair guy is already making sounds about how water in the system would cause the problem, and he's coming in this week to do a compression check.

What do you think?

If he found rusted parts when he disassembled, then there must have been a lot of water in the fuel. You probably should have either dumped the fuel or at least polished it to get rid of the water (including draining the tank etc.)

Did you drain and change the water separator filter, before starting it?

Good luck - but no matter what - drain/clean your tank/change your water separator and flush your lines.

[djmarchand]

I would get another guy to investigate the current problem because the first one may cover up or obfuscate his poor work.

If a diesel sits for a while it is possible for the injector pump/governor to rust and freeze the injector rack. A bit less possible is that water in the fuel rusted the plungers. But the injector rebuild should have solved that.

Perhaps he didn't get the timing right and after the engine warmed up it started the ticking sound due to improper timing. But the clanging sound is more ominous unless it is internal to the injector pump rebuild and then it is the rebuilder's fault.

So get someone else involved in sorting this out as it is very likely that your original mechanic screwed up.

David

[Neo]

I'm no expert, but rust inside a lift pump or high pressure fuel pump is a red flag. I would get another mechanic.

[Tim R.]

A 2010 model engine and 4 months for parts? Something is not right here. Your "mechanic" needs to stop throwing parts at the solution and do some real troubleshooting. If he is unable then get another mechanic.

You may also want to call Mack Boring in NJ. They have great support guys that will help you with your engine. They can also find you a decent mechanic.

Could be multiple problems. Water in the fuel and a cracked block or head could contribute. The boat sat on the hard for a year. Was it in an area that freezes? Was the engine properly winterized before laying up? Did you have an engine survey when the boat was purchased? Not just the normal survey but a detailed engine survey.

Unfortunately your latest experience describes some possible permanent damage to the engine, specifically the connecting rods.

[marlinmike]

Best advice so far: Ditch the "mechanic"!

Originally Posted by Tim R.

A 2010 model engine and 4 months for parts? Something is not right here. Your "mechanic" needs to stop throwing parts at the solution and do some real troubleshooting. If he is unable then get another mechanic.

You may also want to call Mack Boring in NJ. They have great support guys that will help you with your engine. They can also find you a decent mechanic.

Could be multiple problems. Water in the fuel and a cracked block or head could contribute. The boat sat on the hard for a year. Was it in an area that freezes? Was the engine properly winterized before laying up? Did you have an engine survey when the boat was purchased? Not just the normal survey but a detailed engine survey.

Unfortunately your latest experience describes some possible permanent damage to the engine, specifically the connecting rods.

[Wraith_Mac]

Agree with the above posts but I have to ask,
What are your oil level and condition like? [ie. normal and no water?]
Did the mechanic run the engine after his refitting the pump?
Did the mechanic check the engine for internal damage after he found the rust?
Did he check for the cause of the water problem?
If no to any of the last three, get another mechanic.
If that engine had sat for 4 months with water in the cylinders or rust on the rings damage incl. a con rod [as above] or a cracked/broken piston is likely.
'Clanging' I usually associate with a transmission plate 'sound' and 'clunking' or 'knocking' as an 'engine' sound, in your case a broken/ cracked piston around the gudgeon pin may sound like a 'clang'.
You may be fortunate the engine stopped when it did.
Fingers crossed for you!
Good luck,
Mac

[impi]

It sounds to me the mechanic may have addressed 'part of the problem'. I am not sure if he pulled and tested the injectors as well, but that should have been done when rust was discovered in the injector pump.
I would definitely start out by removing the diesel tanks and dumping the fuel.
Make sure the tanks are nice and clean before a re-install and be sure to change all / any fuel filters.
Pull the diesel pump again and remove and test the injectors, making sure everything operates freely.
Operate the system with clean diesel and see if this resolves the issue.
Of course one needs to make sure the other basics are covered, such as oil level, clear air flow and so on, but it would not surprise me if the problem is 'water/fuel related'.

[impi]

I forgot to mention that your mechanic should also be checking that water is not getting on-top of the pistons. Our boat has an anti-syphon valve which we check regularly ...

[sailorchic34]

I would be surprised that a low hour injector pump had a problem. The fuel oil is a lubricant. Plus all the parts inside the front timing cover are bathed in oil flung about by the timing gears

Its possible that the injector pump came apart, though that would be installation failure on the mechanics part. Big clanging sounds like either a pushrod or piston / connecting rod. I expect your going to be engine shopping soon, as paying a machanic to rebuild an engine is not really cost effective. That is it costs almost as much as a new engine.

Though I might give yanmar a call as 2010 is a young engine.

[atoll]

white smoke,rusted inside the injector pump,didn't change the fuel.........no brainer

water in the fuel!,
probably destroyed the pump as well,as water does not compress

[cal40john]

Originally Posted by atoll

white smoke,rusted inside the injector pump,didn't change the fuel.........no brainer

water in the fuel!,
probably destroyed the pump as well,as water does not compress

How much more does diesel compress than water?

[rw58ph]

As for the moisture water. Do you have primary filter before the engine secondary filter? When the engine sits and/or run for a long time both the primary and secondary filter should be drained of any dirt/water. Most filters have a drain plug, if filter does not then you should try to replace with one that does.

By the year I would assume it’s a 4 stroke? However, if it was a 2 stroke than one or more of the cylinder are open which can allow moisture/pitting rust in the cylinder.

White smoke means moisture/water, which many times is from the engine cooling system, especially if it does not go away when the engine is up to temp. Each year my mechanic starts the engine cold and stand on the stern deck to see what color the exhaust is initially and when it warms up as that can tell a lot.

I agree you should have another mechanic look at the engine also.